That's y if I do go with a scavenge pump I will spend the coin on a quality unit like the exapump

 

Yeah that was not a purpose built oil pump like the RB Racing or Exapump... 10 years ago they were still experimenting with diaphragm pumps but gear driven is the only reliable choice for oil.

 

I don't usually get happy seeing other people's problems.

But man this makes me feel so much better with my Boosted kit. I thought I had "problems". Haha

 

Turbos are back and back on the car I'm working on getting the driver's side turbo clocked correctly which is proving to be a gigantic pita. The -10an drain line idea isn't going to work there is not enough room to put the fittings and hose on so I'll be sticking with the factory drain pipes to the bulkheads I put in the oil pan. Hopefully it works correctly. Also got an in pre turbo inline filter I have installed.

 

Blowers look sweet! assuming fitment was spot on?

where does this inline filter mount to? I think these are a really good idea but I read on an evo forum that they can be problematic.
#1 get something that cant clog ... if it clogs your blowers die...
#2 get something super high quality, if the screen material breaks loose it'll clog and/or kill the innerds of the turbo...

I'd mount this somewhere where you can access it easily...hence my giant Peterson right on the front of the block...

 

Turbos look cool. Amazing how much room there is on the intake. Such a large coupler for a small inlet pipe.

As for clocking...you want the chra to be pointing down and the turbo outlet at like the 7 o'clock position so when you put that small L shape it is parallel and nearly touching the oil pan.

figured the 10an wouldnt fit.

 

Ya fitment was the exact same as the 20g's. The FP blacks and the 20g's are the exact same physical dimensions. Only difference is the larger compressor wheels and machined port shroud compressor housings. The only real difference was the air intake snout on the compressor housing was a bit shorter which actually worked out for the better with how close these turbos are to the motor mounts. Car is running and I'm about to go bleed the cooling system and go do some logging to see how far off the tune is. Gonna try my luck at a roll racing event tomorrow. I'll leave it on 16ish psi for now until we can get title back on the Dyno for C16 and higher boost tuning.

 

Well guys the main voyage went extremely well. No more smoke and man does it pull hard 40-140 real quick! I went out and made some pulls and did some logging. The tune looks spot on at 18psi even with the new higher flowing turbos. It pulls harder than it ever has. I couldn't be a happier man right now. A/F's we're 11.2ish which is a little fat but I can live with it for now. But to drive this car without embarrassing clouds of smoke is like a miracle haha. Only one little miss hap to speak of... I forgot to tighten the hose clamp on the pcv valve and it blew off in a 5th gear pull and spilled oil all over the exhaust manifold and filled the car with smoke. Luckily I had a screw driver on hand and there were no fires. I will be racing the car in a roll racing event tomorrow and hopefully I can get some good kills.

 

I wanna see the before and after dyno for comparison.

 

Nice! Glad it worked out.

what was the final verdict with the scavenge pumps? and/or return lines?

 

he scraped the idea.

 

I thought so, but wasnt 100% ...

 

This was the before Dyno on 16psi. This is also a freshly calibrated mustang dyno. I was driving the car on 20psi which I guestimated was around 600whp on this dyno. Was making right at 20whp per lb of boost before. I should have it back on the Dyno in the next month or so. I still have to install the Haltech 4 bar map sensor to go above 22psi.

 

Dont have to buy the haltech sensor...it is just a GM sensor rebranded and is ugly. I would suggest looking at an AEM 3 bar sensor which is good up to 30psi (youll not touch 30psi on these turbos).

For comparison on Z1 dynojet i made 640whp on some hybrid 20g turbos @18.5psi(cast impeller, td06h-20g dimensions). I hear mustangs read low.

I now have some billet impeller turbos i need to get dynoed.

 

I'm not 100% (and someone correct me if I'm wrong - wouldnt be the first time) but I believe the MAP sensor on the haltech is a absolute pressure sensor (not a gauge/relative pressure sensor)...

look at your data logs and pull up your MAP and see how it compares to your boost gauge...

just a thought...

 

I went above 22 psi on a log before I changed turbos and it started freaking out. The map sensor is only good for 22psi. I've researched it which is why I purchased the 4 bar sensor. Car is in storage for winter but I plan on changing the sensor and getting back on the Dyno before race season starts.


​​​

 

Car is running damn good on 16psi right now. Feels faster on 16psi than it did on 21 psi before the turbo change. I chased down a slightly modified ZR1 last weekend. I was pretty happy with that. He left early and I caught him before the finish line.

 

nice! Different compressor map on the new blowers...all about mass air flow

 

I honestly didn't touch the tune yet. It's a little rich for VP110 I could pull some fuel out but 11.2-1 is pretty close 0 knock count at 10° of timing I could also add some timing. But the car runs great on the current tune. No misfires or other issues to speak of. I thought for sure I would have to touch up the tune but it's solid for now until I start adding boost and timing with C16.

 

^ dont mess with your timing w/o a dyno...you've been through too much to pop your engine for an extra ~30hp ...