Michael Zosa

Hello all. Recently building this motor from my old one, and I have raised the compression to 11:5:1, have ported block and heads, and .020 over (96mm) bore. Since you have to break in the engine for the first 500-1000 miles, would tuning it after be fine and could the ECU handle the changes of internals without a tune? I know the dyno really stresses the car out, and I was just wondering if it’d be safer to break it in first.
TLDR: With a raised compression of 11.5:1 and 96mm bore, can the ECU still drive and run the car without damaging the engine till it breaks in and can go on the dyno to be tuned? Thanks !

BluestreamDE

Why did you pick that compression ratio, if you don't mind me asking?


I'm sure its possible, I would suggest using the highest octane possible in your area whether it be 91 or higher, and not romp on the car (i.e go WOT). Drive normally during the break in. The ECU will take add/take away timing and add fuel (to an extent on the stock map) on its own if knock is preset.


But after the break in period, do another oil change, read your spark plugs, and get tuned.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

he triple posted the same thing....

https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/6...hout-tune.html

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

An NA build in the FI section? Gross.

Michael Zosa

Subd

breaking in an engine? do you mean breaking in new cams, or a new clutch, what you mean breaking in an engine, engines when rebuilt are good to go, unless you have new cams installed which requires a break in 20 minutes at 2k rpm , and if you have a new clutch that needs a break in as well, 500k this isn't a technical response filled with info just a quick response on "how don't you know this?"

Michael Zosa

I've read countless times that a newly built/forged engine needs to break-in in order for the seals and piston rings to be settled and seal properly or else the lifespan could be drastically reduced. No new cams or clutch being installed also.

Subd

WHERE ARE YOU READING THIS, lol

Michael Zosa

Literally everywhere (google, facebook, fellow mechanics) Not sure if you're trolling, but just research about engine break-in. Some say it isn't needed while others swear on it to be required. I'm just trying to get everyones input on it and I might as well not risk it and break-in the engine properly.

Subd

I have never heard of this, I've heard of honing the bores so the rings seat properly but I haven't heard about what you're talking about,
I have never broke in an rebuilt engine with new rings, with any compression problems, I've had to break in cams and clutches, I believe that is a must but I've known friends that haven't did a break-in on clutches and had no problems,
but if you think you need to do a break in for your own satisfaction than do it to sleep better,
just have fun doing your rebuild and do what you want, its your car,


(today I rebuilt and engine what did you do?)

Michael Zosa

ahh well its such a split topic and people have a hard time deciding what is true. Some performance shops swear on it also. I'll just try to be safe. Thanks for your input though! What's your build? and its goals?

Subd

Wiseco Coated Pistons 96mm 8.8:1
eagle rods
bc valves
dw400
bosch ev14
ACL bearings
ARP head bolts, main
revup oil pump
cometic head gaskets
Ferrea Bronze Valve Guides

and for turbo haven't decided what im doing maybe twin or twin scroll

BluestreamDE

I would not take advice from some one with 7 posts on this site.

Anytime you get a new motor, the engine with need a break in, piston rings will seal and your oil will get dirty with some metal shavings/glitter, dirt and other residue due to motor operation. So oil changes are frequently done ( 100, 500, 1000 mile intervals) on all vehicle types.

You are also on higher compression now. You really need to take care to not foolishly operate the new engine without at least 500 miles of break in, another fresh oil change and a retune.

You obviously spent money on this build. Would hate for you to have issues heeding to misinformation.

Subd

guess I don't have enough post points to know what im talking about, according the guy with the sonic the hedge avatar

BluestreamDE

...and the rest of the internet.

Majority of ppl reguardless of vehicle model preach breaking in freshly built motors and changing/checking oil content/color frequently to make sure the engine isn't eating itself to ruin.

And with OP's high compression rebuild, there is more chance to have detonation and knock even with 91 oct. There is NO reason for him to drive like a raped ape with no tune anyway. Do it safe, and cover your bases of anything that may/could go wrong. I would give the same advice to you.

Subd

I can't win an argument with someone who lacks general knowledge of things, youre the type of guy who sees things and likes what people say then you just quote what other people say, and to say the majority of people makes me believe that you knowledge is limited, and knock if so id look into EGR increase to be suppressed if youre running a higher compression,rich mixture and lean mixture can help reduce knock intensity.
all im saying is that a normal stock engine rebuild does not need a break-in unless your are using new cams or a new clutch

BluestreamDE

Stop with the victim attitude. OP specifically asked if he could run his vehicle without a tune and I answered his question. Although a tune will help, it is not necessary under just normal break in driving. Btw it's NOT A STOCK REBUILD. HE IS 11.5.1 CP!

Nobody brought up cams or clutch, So nobody cares how you feel about that. Stick to the context of the topic or be a child on FB with the other useful idiots.

You want to contribute? Make your thread on your build with your unorthodox methods and prove up wrong, and stop wasting server space with your straight to left field comments.

Subd

you lose an argument, now your going this route, ok cool, well were done here, I've gave you info on my thoughts and you bash me and accuse me of stuff I've haven't done, but ok im sure you can convince most people youre a great guy and know everything,

BluestreamDE

LOL, nothing I told you was a lie. I'm sure OP will pick the majority picked route instead of one man's opinion and poor reading compression.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Ive heard many different things about engine break-ins but the overall consesus is. Start the engine and drive it for about 10-15 miles with break in oil. Change the oil to a Conventional (non-synthetic) oil. Drive for another 50 miles, change the oil again with conventional. Drive it until you hit 500 miles. Then the engine should be broken in and you can use what ever oil you want in it. All driving should be city driving so you get different loads and different rpms.

Or just beat the fck out of it and hope for the best.