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Well some **** news tonight guys, I found out why cylinder 2 is misfiring. Did a leak down test today. The forward most intake valve isn’t sealing. In fact it’s leaking pretty bad. Which means the cylinder heads gotta come off. I used tooler’s die when I laped the valves to make sure they were seated so I’m not sure why this is happening, my only guess is the buckets I reused but I won’t know till it comes apart
Sucks man, did you put break cleaner or anything down the head after putting the valves in ensure it was sealed?
not until last night when I found it to be letting air pass, I’m not a fan of using break cleaner anywhere that it might get into the engine, instead I used 91% isopropyl alcohol and used a turkey baster to put a few ml right on top the valve, the rear valve held the alcohol from entering the engine but front valve quickly let it into the cylinder which I then had to blow out with compressed air through the spark plug tube, when I checked this morning the alcohol I put on top the rear valve was still there at roughly the same height like it should have been
not until last night when I found it to be letting air pass, I’m not a fan of using break cleaner anywhere that it might get into the engine, instead I used 91% isopropyl alcohol and used a turkey baster to put a few ml right on top the valve, the rear valve held the alcohol from entering the engine but front valve quickly let it into the cylinder which I then had to blow out with compressed air through the spark plug tube, when I checked this morning the alcohol I put on top the rear valve was still there at roughly the same height like it should have been
When ever you mess with the valves its a good idea to pour some sort of liquid on top of the valve to make sure they seal. It is much much easier to fix a head off a car then after engine is buttoned up.
On the Link G4X, there are 2 connectors inside the case for the Expansion Looms, and you need to drill a hole in the case for access.
Once you read thru the booklet that came with the G4X it will become more clear. I did not get it at first.
Seamed that there should be a rubber plug where the Loom goes thru, & if you don't use it, you just leave it.
Last edited by OldManZ350; 04-17-2021 at 11:47 PM.
On the Link G4X, there are 2 connectors inside the case for the Expansion Looms, and you need to drill a hole in the case for access.
Once you read thru the booklet that came with the G4X it will become more clear. I did not get it at first.
Seamed that there should be a rubber plug where the Loom goes thru, & if you don't use it, you just leave it.
oh ok thanks! I was starting to think mine didn’t have it and that I was going to have to repin the main connector, oh well if anybody is interested I tracked down the crimp pin part numbers for our ecu connector
Been working little by little the last few days to get the head off, it’s pretty obvious from the combustion chamber that I wasn’t getting combustion in cylinder 2. I pulled the lifter buckets and they look the same as the rest of the cylinders, there is some scoring on the lifter guide. With the head removed I laid it flat on a table and put alcohol into the intake plenums and with the buckets removed it looks like it’s sealing but I also put an equal amount of fluid into cylinder 4&6 so I will check in a bit so see if they are still even. I’m going to go ahead and disassemble the valve train, check the valve guides, polish the lifter guides, look over the valves, probably re-lap them replace the valve seals again and make sure the cams, buckets, and all surfaces are clean polished and to spec.
Even if well lubed, you put a bucket in the hole just 1 time and you will see score marks.
So by the time you are done setting Lash, you will have a Fair Amount!
Even if well lubed, you put a bucket in the hole just 1 time and you will see score marks.
So by the time you are done setting Lash, you will have a Fair Amount!
agreed. and its not to say that there isn't scoring on the other lifter guides, but they are all vertical flowing with the travel path. I will add that i can feel the wear with my finger nail and I'm not sure if it just happened or if this was there before assembly. I assembled this head first and never looked at or cleaned up the lifter guides. it wasn't until i was getting ready to assemble the other head that i thought about it. the passenger side head got the lifter guides polished and i even thought about going back and redoing the now problem head but i was being complacent and figured it would be fine, I am of course kicking myself for that now
Reassembled the head today went to install it went through the 3 step tightening process (30,60,90) got to the last bolt on the final torque setting and it went righty tighty to righty no tighty striped some threads in the block, when I realized what had happened I took a closer look and the stud was backed out about 1/2” probably happened when I took the head off and since it was all the way in the back I didn’t notice it when I put the head on. There are still threads further down. And the stud was a pain getting out, it didn’t want to turn. ended up striping the 3/16 hex in the stud. Had to use 2 nuts like jam nuts in order to get the stud out. Luckily I can get individual studs for around $40 the question is what to do about the block
Absolute worst case you upgade to 1/2" studs best case helicoil and call it a.day.
I'm hesitant to use helicoil with the L19's torque spec when the thread repair insert is only 15mm of thread. Im also not a fan of the spring type thread repair inserts. anybody have any experience with time-sert kits?
04-14-2021, 06:59 AM
