Nice! If you're vented than heat wont be a huge problem … think of the mits evo and its hood vent right above the turbo/headers. Passive air will flow from the front of the car and either travel back along the side of the engine/transmission or it'll vent up and out of the hood.

 

This came in the mail today

 

Also picked up this brick today 333 pages of stuff to read on my free time

 

My new turbine housing came in today!! It has a vband welded onto it so the outlet is about an inch closer to the housing, this should help with clearance for the engine mount

 

Looks good ...
I've got that same Engine Management Book and it's got good info also check out Corky Bell's Maximum Boost

 

cool I’ll look into it
on another note I got the first wastegate welded up to the manifold


here is a pic of how close the turbine housing is to the engine mount, I’m going to have to fab a new bracket but I need to make sure it will still fit with the oem location. I will also have to use some sharp pie cuts to maneuver around the spot

And last for this weekend I 3D printed an adapter to help fit the down pipe as I fab it up. It bolts to the oem exhaust manifold and allows a mated vband to mount to it. I will use the printed part to position a jig for the outlet of the down pipe which will be bolted to the block.

 

Did some pie cut work today for the crossover pipe. Played around with short and long pieces both lengths were cut at 18* which is a sharp radius, for the most part I’m using the long pieces but there are a few places the short ones help get the look right

 

Well is has been quite a while since I posted last, lots going on with work and COVID and I haven’t had much time to post
welded up the pie cuts and I’m not really sure if I’m happy with it, now that I have the exact shape I need payed out with the pie cuts I might decide to have a single piece of pipe custom bent for me, still deciding on that

I don’t seem to have a photo of the completely welded pipe on my phone at the moment probably because I wasn’t happy with how it turned out But I’ll post one eventually,


I also did work on the fuel system mocking up the bracket that the surge tank and fuel pump will be mounted on, it’s a work in progress. I’ve had to change my plans a little bit, before I wanted to do a battery relocation to the location of the glove compartment and put the fuel surge tank in the oem subwoofer location but my better half has informed me the subwoofer needs to go back in the car 😂 so I have abandoned the relocation of the battery, and the fuel surge tank will go where the glove compartment was instead
now in my spare time after work this past week I started cleaning up the cylinder heads that I’ll be using for the new engine and I was quite surprised getting my first up close examination of the ports, compared to other engines I’ve worked on in the past (1.6,2.0,2.2) for its cylinder volume size the intake ports are HUGE but I did notice the nasty casting seams left in the head


Im in the process of cleaning up the ports now but that requires access at different angles and I was nervous about leaning the cylinder head on its head with the spark plug tubes protruding from the head the way they do so I designed and 3D printed brackets that bolt on in place of the cam caps and protect the tubes


I designed the bracket as a 2 piece for people with small 3D printers and if there is interest I’ll refine the design and post it to thingaverse
anywho with the brackets to protect the tubes I started polishing the intake ports, I decided since I felt the intake ports were sufficiently sized that I wouldn’t bother with porting them. I think I’ll be fine at their current size for my power goals but the casting lines and the rough cast surface have to go so I started with a 400grit sanding drum on the dremel and smoothed out the surface then I switched to abrasive wheels that are basically scotch pads on a shaft you can get them in 4 different “grits” and further smoothed it out, I will add tho that the abrasive scotch wheels don’t have a lot of cutting power I used the “120 grit” after I used the 400 grit sanding drum and then to the “220grit” scotch wheel. I still need to go over them with the 340 and 400 wheels before I go to felt pad and compound but I think it’s coming along nicely, I really enjoy this part of the build so I’ll take my time cleaning up the ports until they are nice and polished

 

A little update on the head work

Cast surface and seams fully removed

I use red tooler’s die in between grits of abrasive scuff pad to ensure I full remove the previous grit

 

Oh boy where to start this update... well in short the project is getting pushed ahead of schedule, last weekend I was driving on the highway had the engine gave a jolt and I lost all power and the car started sounding like a motorcycle at idle and was pumping smoke from the exhaust. Got her home and did a compression test, a negligible amount of compression on cylinder 1 and low compression on cyl 3 pretty sure this engine just became my newest paper weight. So with that said the need for a new engine is dire. However I’m still quite a ways from finishing the turbo setup and still need to purchase several parts like the bov before I could put it into use. So this is what I’ve decided to do, I’m going to assemble the turbo engine and get it into the car without the turbo setup for now. This will also allow me to trouble shoot the issues that come into play with a new engine before having to worry about the turbo. It also gives me time to get the new fuel system dialed in, and the new Engine properly broken in. Might also go ahead and change the diff fluid while I have it down, it’s past due and I tend to abuse the car so I’m sure it’s desperately needed

 

Sorry to hear - do you know what caused this? did you melt a cylinder wall?

one step at a time and if nothing more, fail-forward!

Keep the thread updated for sure!

 

I honestly don’t know, I don’t feel like I was doing anything that would have caused It to fail I was just driving like normal and the engine is only at 114k miles. It’s acting like it’s a blown head gasket but I’m not sure how on earth I could have blown that Without boost? Any who I took advantage of CZP’s Labor Day sale and bought the remaining pieces including A dynosity girdle JWT springs and Brian crawler valve set, I got with the machine shop last week to figure out what all the machine work will cost and plan to drop everything off on Wednesday for machining and balancing the rotating assembly

 

Its a fun process if you can compartmentalize everything and if you're wired how I think you are than you'll enjoy the process.

now would be a good time to determine what oil clearance you want to go with ... I went with around a .003" and I run a heavier oil but something to research and consider changing up.

+1 to CZP and +1 to the dynosty girdle!

 

I think at this point the part I’m most unsure of is what ring gap to run any suggestions?

 

When you buy your rings, the manufacture will give you the clearances they recommend for the type of application. The more boost/timing the hotter the cylinder the more ring expansion meaning more gap.

 

100% per the manufacturers recommendations

 

Well it’s been a few weeks so I thought I would give an update, I dropped off my components at the engine shop but they are back logged a few weeks (been there 2 weeks already) but that’s not really hurting anything Becca my large order from CZP still haven’t shipped due to the L19 studs and JWT springs being on back order. Everything is expected to be back in stock this week. In the meantime I’m working on paint prep. I was going to apply a non-bake ceramic coating from Cerakote to the block, cylinder heads, and front cam caps, And valve covers but after a test piece I decided I didn’t like the application thickness of the material and it didn’t have enough of the metallic I’m looking for. So I decided I would go with Eastwood’s nano ceramic engine urethane in aluminum color and adding a compatible holographic silver metal flake from (paint with pearl) I’ve used this combo on the engine In my last car in a black with red metal flake color scheme which created a Wonderful effect. As for the front and rear timing covers, lower plenum, and intake manifold I’ll be powder coating them Illusion cherry with a clear topcoat, I still haven’t painted a test piece yet to see how I like the metallic of the red yet and if I don’t like it I still have red metal flake I can add to the powder but until then I still have a lot of paint prep to do for the front cover which is a major ***** to properly clean

 

Here is a pic of the paint materials I’m using



I also have a few other things going on also
ive shaved a few of the unused bungs off of the front cover and welded up the existing screw holes, I think the front cover is too busy and I didn’t like the look of that

then I decided to pull the trigger on the R8 coils




and I’ll be coating the spark plug tubes with insulating paint

 

Here is some of the work on the surge tank and sub fuse block



i might decide to powder coat the surge tank as well but I consider that non necessity for the project right now so we shall see, as for the fuel lines I’m going to be using aluminum hard 6AN line for everything except surge tank to pump, feed and return lines to the regulator mounted on the engine and I’ll be using red anodized fittings for all the lines

every thing is a mess all over the place and work on it is crazy but I’ll get more pictures as everything comes together and gets cleaned up

 

Beautiful!

Interested to see how the R8 coils work out for you!

I love the shaved non-used mounting holes on the timing chain case! I would love to do this to mine along with the plenum.