When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From the mail fuel pump to the fuel pressure regulator it’s 1/2 or 8AN, return to tank is 6AN, and the individual lines to and from the the fuel rails are 6AN which is 3/8
Pre-Christmas update
valve covers are done, I really didn’t like the look of the pathfinder plastic oil fill tube so I ditched it and welded a bung right to the cover. the new tube seals are installed and I painted it to match the block and cylinder heads
Good start to the first of the year, my L19 head studs finally came in. So today I got the long block assembled
Very nice progress - things are coming along nicely.
I didnt add a windage tray to my dynosty girdle although I wanted to ... I feared that drilling holes in the girdle would have compromised it's structural integrity. I think we'll both be ok! I have a baffled pan concept I'm trying to wrap up ... so, we'll see!
Dude, that girdle is strong as crap. The stock one had holes in it for the windage tray.
6 little tiny 6mm holes are not going to compromised it's structural integrity. That's a chunk of 6061-T6 Billet Aluminum like 3/4" thick LOL
Originally Posted by bealljk
Very nice progress - things are coming along nicely.
I didnt add a windage tray to my dynosty girdle although I wanted to ... I feared that drilling holes in the girdle would have compromised it's structural integrity. I think we'll both be ok! I have a baffled pan concept I'm trying to wrap up ... so, we'll see!
1. No Holes in the windage tray? (your design may be fine)
2. No Deep Pan? (I'd want the extra volume)
3. Oil Cool at least I hope
Thank you!
1) I went with a slotted form with 1/4 inch open space in between the edges of the plate and the girdle it should limit the windage without retaining any oil 🤞
2) for now until the turbo goes on it’s the OEM pan I have a CZP cast high capacity finned oil pan but I need it for mock-up and figment purposes for the turbo setup
3) I ordered a mocal thermostatic sandwich plate but I’m not going to install that and the oil cooler until after the break in period
Dude, that girdle is strong as crap. The stock one had holes in it for the windage tray.
6 little tiny 6mm holes are not going to compromised it's structural integrity. That's a chunk of 6061-T6 Billet Aluminum like 3/4" thick LOL
OMZ - I'm not saying it isnt beefy but it's not as beefy as you may think - it has some milling out of it. Far improvemetn from OEM, yes, indeed. Me personally, I'm not about to compromise the integrity of the component that stabilizes the lower end of the engine - I wouldnt have taken the chance. Take no offense Rinz! Your build not mine!
James, I'd love to put that in a Finite Element stress analysis program so we could see just what those holes would do.
I think I have SoildWorks with FE in it, on my old computer from my engineering days, but my Girdle is in my motor, lol. I need exact Dimensions to make a model.
I'm very courious now.... but getting sidetracked from my car..... Hahahaeeeeeee.....
here is a pic of what I did for comparison Astrid...
Originally Posted by bealljk
OMZ - I'm not saying it isnt beefy but it's not as beefy as you may think - it has some milling out of it. Far improvemetn from OEM, yes, indeed. Me personally, I'm not about to compromise the integrity of the component that stabilizes the lower end of the engine - I wouldnt have taken the chance. Take no offense Rinz! Your build not mine!
Little update, I’ve been playing with the manifold and air lines and fuel hoses. Once I got the lower collector in place with the fuel rails and lines it became apparent that the front fuel rail lines weren’t going to work so I had to ditch them, I’m going to run soft AN line to the front of the rails and keep the hard line at the rear.
I started mocking up the hardline for the vacuum regulator I’m not particularly happy with the connection to the drivers side bank it seams really busy so I think I’ll go back and get a 90* adapter to reduce the noise so to speak
On another note let’s take a step back to the fuel system, after thinking about it I realized the way I have it setup free flowing from the in tank pump through the surge tank with little or no restrictions I think the flow is going to be enough for the siphon nozzle to be a point of restriction causing pressure buildup in the surge tank. I could probably try drilling out the nozzle a few times and play with it but I decided to nip the potential problem in the but now instead of playing with a system full of fuel several times. So I started looking at other solutions but I really couldn’t find much except zip-tieing an additional pump the the drivers side fuel level sender and I really didn’t like that as a long term solution. So I purchased another fuel canister and started working towards dual feed and return to the surge tank and ditching the siphon tube all together and that means adapting the fuel level sender to fit a fuel canister as the drivers side level sender doesn’t share the same resistance curve Removed the fuel level sender Side by side comparison of the two units Passenger side maximum resistance Passenger side maximum resistance Breakdown of sending unit Testing figment of canister in tank
after a lot of work I decided to print a bracket for the other sender to fit on a canister
This is a bracket printed from PETG This is a template for drilling mounting holes for the bracket The drilled holes Viton seals around the mounting standoff’s to prevent fuel leaking out Decided to adjust the wires positioning to allow for more clearance on the bracket The bracket and canister fitted with the drivers side level sender I wanted to test the durability of the PETG soaking in gasoline. It should be completely impervious to the gasoline but I prefer to do things the Russian way “trust but verify” After 2 weeks of soaking there is no compromise in strength or shape and no evidence of the gasoline having an affect on the material
I’m just waiting on a new bulkhead for the return and then I can install the second canister
Weekend update
managed to get the engine in the car with the new JWT clutch and flywheel, decided to swap the oem exhaust hardware for ARP studs and did a bit of electrical work
ARP exhaust studs Original clutch left quite a nasty mess in the bell housing My crank was originally from an auto and they have little adapters in them that you have to remove in order to install the pilot bushing used for the manual JWT clutch Cleaned out the bell housing replaced pivot ball and baring and greased with high temp grease JWT flywheel with ARP flywheel bolts JWT clutch fully assembled with ARP pressure plate bolts And she is in and mated to the trans
not gunna lie the hardest part was getting the engine in without scratching any of the painted surfaces
Decided to convert to an -20 fittings as they were about the same ID as the oem hoses New all aluminum radiator and fan shroud I got a shirt, hat, lanyard, and stickers just from my radiator order ($240). It’s kind of impressive actually considering I’ve spent over 10k with CZP and I’ll I’ve ever gotten from them was a license plate shroud New all aluminum radiator with fan shroud and fans ColorFittings red -20 fittings
as a side note if I were to plan out an radiator hoses again I would do it with -16 instead of -20. The -20 fittings and hose are huge and difficult to work with
Starting the wiring for the coil packs Wrapped in fire resistant sleeves with a neat pattern Test fitting the manifold and injection, unfortunately I’m not going to be able to use the hardline fuel lines at all as the main harness exit from the fire wall requires lower clearance so I’m just going with soft line to the rails both to and from 😞 Here is a teaser photo of the turbo in place but after tearing through the engine bay I decided I wanted to change the manifolds so that they don’t run right next to the beautiful timing cover. The turbo location won’t change but the wastegates will move to the back and make more room for turbo intake and output
I like the 1.25" AN-20 radiator hose size but they are pricy and obnoxious to get a wrench on. I ditched steel braided hose for coolant lines (it was too expensive and too hard to find) and went with silicone for my recent radiator modification.
great progress - when do you anticipate firing it up?
I like the 1.25" AN-20 radiator hose size but they are pricy and obnoxious to get a wrench on. I ditched steel braided hose for coolant lines (it was too expensive and too hard to find) and went with silicone for my recent radiator modification.
great progress - when do you anticipate firing it up?
yeah when I tried assembling the first hose I immediately decided -16 would have been easier 😂 I would like to have it up and running by early or mid February, but we’re slow at the shop right now so I might use up some of my leftover vacation time before it expires and spend a few days at home working out all the lose ends
Update time! I’ve wrapped up fabrication of all the parts necessary for starting and started doing final install of components. Also rotated the engine with the starter and no plugs to prime the oil system. And I was almost giddy watching it rotating effortlessly lol
I chose anodized fittings that matched the powder coat for the front fuel rail lines Feed and return of the FPR Test fitting for clearance Throttle just nearly fits over the valve cover fittings FTW Disassembly of the thermostat before welding -20 fitting welded Powder coated black Also powder coated black I added an extra support bracket to the pipe to support it as the AN is significantly more rigid than the oem line and I had to cut the oem block mount off Testing the crank evac system, the exa pump maxed out at about 23inhg of vacuum but I don’t plan to run it that high, here I have the Vacuum regulator set to it’s lowest setting and I’ll keep it here for now. If I decide I need more later I can always turn it up but I don’t really want or need too much Manifold is on for keeps now Welded the bungs to the aluminum radiator Starting assembling the front end, I won’t fully reassemble it until the engine is running but I needed the radiator mount in place to assemble the radiator lines before the test start How she sits heading into the weekend, on a side note with the aluminum radiator and the shallow mount fan shroud I have more room in between the engine and radiator than before and it serves to show off the timing cover nicely
Well it’s been a nasty nasty week for cars and things, where to start? I Guess chronologically. Well I ruined one of the -20 weld bungs on the radiator and the fitting along with it. Some how it gulled the threads for the upper hose and couldn’t get it fully tight or off without damage 😢 the murano thermostat I adapted for an line interferes with some of the other components that won’t be in place when the turbo is installed, this was an oversight on my part so I decided for the time being I would take a step back and wait and do the AN hose setup later. Unfortunately I already cut the oem coolant tube and welded an -20 bung to it so I had to order an adapter to use regular line. Ultimately not the worst of what was to come. I’ve been trying to get everything in place to do the initial startup and low and behold one of my brand new fuel filters was leaking from the filter body and sprayed fuel all over the bottom of the little glove compartment cavity, I ended up having to order a new one as the window to return the filter had passed. The new filter came in Tuesday and I got it installed leak tested all the fuel lines and set the fuel pressure to 53psi. Then comes Thursday, I will forever remember the Thursday that F****d me. first off for those that don’t know I live in Texas, Texas right now if going through a very rare cold front this week. We’re getting lots of freezing rain. Now that might be normal for some of you but in Texas they don’t have the resources to salt and plow the roads. Yesterday there was a 130+ car accident just a few city’s over from me and countless around me. In fact I managed to be one of them and just so happened to total my other Z 😭 and yes my silver z and black z are the only cars I have available to drive so I don’t want to hear that I should have driven a different car cause I don’t have one
Ball joint snapped off the upper control arm and the aluminum fender is oragami Rear quarter panel got hit bad to
so of course I’m pissed off about that and I decided to take some time off to try and get the car up and running, get home after a few hours of dealing with insurance and towing and start assembling everything just to get ready for the first start, I get everything ready and am about to load the uprev rom to start the fuel adjustment for the new fuel injectors, open up the program and get everything setup and start
this is all I see for 20 minuets before the program crashes. The ecu is now partially loaded and won’t talk to uprev basically it’s bricked. I tried recovering it several ways reading through countless threads on it and eventually gave up for the day. Friday/today I called uprev and we came to the conclusion that I’ll have to send in the ecu to have them recover it. Sigh there goes $200 luckily uprev is in Austin TX so it shouldn’t take to long to get it back. For those that care I’m fine after the accident, a little sore but fine. And insurance has officially totaled the black Z and in case anyone noticed one of my silver z wheels was on the black z when totaled and was damaged so I will need to purchase a new oem rim as well
Pre weekend update, not much to say for progress this week, mostly been putting things back together but I wanted to make this post to share the info and progress on the Volvo electric power steering conversion. The pump is in and working wiring was pretty straight forward, it’s just 3 wires constant power +/- with a 40A fuse (will probably swap this out for a 40A circuit breaker in the future) and then the trigger wire 12v. There is about a 5 second delay between power being applied to the trigger wire and actual pump power up. This will keep the pump from trying to power on while cranking, as for sound it’s actually pretty quiet in fact it’s quieter than my holly dominator fuel pump and the exa-pump. As it stands I’m not seeing any compatibility issues with the pump and the oem steering rack, I am using the oem recommended power steering fluid for the 350z. As for parts I used an upgraded 350z power steering hose with -6AN hose ends and fittings, I decided to run aluminum hardline from the outlet of the steering rack past the drivers side header and then switched to soft line returning to the pump as the pump and reservoir are integrated. The pump itself hose the same thread and pitch for the hose attachment as the oem 350z pump so the fittings I received with the -6AN hose was compatible with the Volvo pump. I did have to cut down the bracket at the rear later as it had the pump to far forward and the pump was interfering with the bumper Power ground and trigger, the trigger wire is the wire closest to the corner of the pump, normally there are 2 additional wires for Volvo’s CAN bus but they are not needed for standalone oppression so they were removed and sealed. I added some heat protectant sleeving for the braided hose since it runs right past the header as well I ended up printing a new bumper retainer bracket to allow more room for the fill cap, needless to say I have to remove the bumper to service the power steering. That’s not a problem for me as I wanted it out of sight out of mind
this setup could ultimately be setup to be placed just about anywhere with a long enough pressure side hose
other updates
my ecu still hasn’t reached UPREV yet it’s in limbo sitting at a distribution center in Austin TX. I’m hoping now that the nasty winter storm is melting away it will get delivered Monday or Tuesday
My black Z came up with around 9k of estimated damages and insurance has totaled it. I’m deciding if I want to buy it back and take the check and repair it myself, with the spare parts from the silver Z included I could fix it for 3k in parts and paint. But it’s a staggering amount of work. I’m lucky I work at a shop that does frame and paint work so I have a lot of tools at my disposal but I’m not sure yet. I’m thinking of going and taking a look at the car tomorrow. That might influence my decision
12-13-2020, 03:39 PM
I have a CZP cast high capacity finned oil pan but I need it for mock-up and figment purposes for the turbo setup
