ditto.

I'd like to know the pricing for...

- sleeving
- decking
- crank, piston balancing
- piston, rod installation

I know SGP does most of this as well, so I might see what they have to offer also.

 

double ditto...Please PM me too!
i neeeddd to know!!!

 

Forgive me limited knowledge of engine block building...but why would sleeving be necessary? If you switch to low compression pistons and forged rods, this will allow you to turn up the boost safetly. (assuming the fueling and timing issues are addressed). I thought the high compression of the VQ motor, flimsy con rods, and cast pistons were the limited factors. If the goal is less than 600 RWHP, is sleeving still necessary, or would forged pistons and rods suffice?

 

Well the genreal idea for sleeving the block is to protect your investment in your rods and pistons just in case and also the fact that you are going through the trouble of putting pistons and rods you might as well just sleeve it and do it right the first time...

 

it's not technically necessary, but it's very beneficial. the power is not necessarily the problem, it's the longevity of the stock cylinder walls that is. think about the cylinder pressures you're producing at 600rwhp. w/ an open deck the cylinder walls will balloon and rattle about their perpendicular axis. the heat from forced induction also will warp an unsupported cylinder wall. you also have the piston pushing against the cylinder wall at its thrust axis at every engine revolution. piston slap from forged pistons can also distort the bore. i could go on and on, but the point is even though all these forces are very minute, if you add them up over tens of thousand of miles and millions of rpm's your bore will quickly deteriorate out of round. also, w/ closed deck sleeves you get a better headgasket seal since you have more surface are along the mating surfaces, so you have a slight bigger margin of error for tuning, as you can get away w/ a touch more detonation w/o blowing the heads. another plus w/ sleeves is you can overbore the engine to about 3.9 liters, which'll give you a free 10% more hp. whether or not it's worth the money however, is debatable.

 

so you can stroke and bore this motor Damn, would like to see somone with that different crank in there.

 

Thanks for the reply...you lost me on the third sentence...hehe Someone definately needs to post a step-by-step on this boring/decking/sleeving thing.

 

Not sure if this is a DIY project