GReddy TT dyno.....
finally.... ok heres the scenario..... I have GReddy TT with FMIC, and helix test pipes.... I watched the boost gauge he hooked up as he ran it.... it stayed around 5.0-5.2 pounds. He held off at around 6200 rpm...he told me the A/F ratio was getting too high, somewhere like 11.9 near the end. Looks like those cats were really holding the Z back! I also got my colder plugs put in right before. The A/F did stay pretty constant till around 6000+RPMS
There was another dyno of a PROcharger...wish he would let me take it....but he didn't...some rule he has....
But ill tell you..... the guy with the procharger dynoed at 387, he had 7 pounds of boost, a complete exhaust system from the headers to the tail, rims, and a grounding kit.... just a comparison.
Anyway....the service engine light that I was talking about in other posts mysteriously was off today when I started the car up. Maybe it just wanted to get dynoed.......
There was another dyno of a PROcharger...wish he would let me take it....but he didn't...some rule he has....
But ill tell you..... the guy with the procharger dynoed at 387, he had 7 pounds of boost, a complete exhaust system from the headers to the tail, rims, and a grounding kit.... just a comparison.
Anyway....the service engine light that I was talking about in other posts mysteriously was off today when I started the car up. Maybe it just wanted to get dynoed.......
yes everything is standard from Greddy besides the helix addition.
He did tell me that its not that great on your engine on the dyno to have anything above 11.9, 12 is not necessarily ok. He explained that the dyno simulates 5-10mph wind with the fan... when you are driving there is more air hitting the IC making the air denser, and although the system will adjust the fuel to accomodate....the A/F ratio will increase to above the 12's....im gonna listen to him.....I was looking around the shop...he's won at least 40 trophies for drag racing.....magaizine articles all over the place about him and his cars.... Primarily Mustangs....but mustangs or not....an engine is an engine....seems like he knows what he's talking about....i'll go with him. Besides that I'm thrilled with the numbers at only 5.2 pounds of boost....I'm gonna get my BOV in this week get it installed...order the gauges next week... Then I might get the boost controller, depends, I'd rather not let my car be any more of a lab rat
He did tell me that its not that great on your engine on the dyno to have anything above 11.9, 12 is not necessarily ok. He explained that the dyno simulates 5-10mph wind with the fan... when you are driving there is more air hitting the IC making the air denser, and although the system will adjust the fuel to accomodate....the A/F ratio will increase to above the 12's....im gonna listen to him.....I was looking around the shop...he's won at least 40 trophies for drag racing.....magaizine articles all over the place about him and his cars.... Primarily Mustangs....but mustangs or not....an engine is an engine....seems like he knows what he's talking about....i'll go with him. Besides that I'm thrilled with the numbers at only 5.2 pounds of boost....I'm gonna get my BOV in this week get it installed...order the gauges next week... Then I might get the boost controller, depends, I'd rather not let my car be any more of a lab rat
Trending Topics
Very solid results with just a test pipe. If you throw an exhaust on there, you'll likely get another 10-20hp with F/I. Any idea why your wastgates are pooping out at 5lbs? Maybe there is still a minor exhaust leak somewhere?? It's probably not even worth diagnosing it. Once you get a boost controller, you can just throttle up the boost level until you get to 5.6psi or 6.0psi...whatever you feel comfortable with. I will probably set my boost to 6psi until I get a timing retard solution.
Actually a dyno does not place as much load on the drivetrain and actually driving the car. I that that's what he was probablty tring to tell you. More load = higher egt & the engine working harder = leaner mix. So yeah you wanna tune rich on a dyno.
I am very happy with the results!!!
I do notice that I can hear the exhaust on the right side...when i am looking under the hood, rather than the left side... Maybe there could be an exhaust leak....smells like exhaust too....but who knows....i'll check it out...no big deal really.
So....GQ...... how's your kit moving along?? Almost done?
I do notice that I can hear the exhaust on the right side...when i am looking under the hood, rather than the left side... Maybe there could be an exhaust leak....smells like exhaust too....but who knows....i'll check it out...no big deal really.
So....GQ...... how's your kit moving along?? Almost done?
Ok....i have a question that might be dumb....but anyway....i know getting UD pulleys and a flywheel will help increase WHP....but will lighter rims do the same thing??? It makes sense....does anyone know some weight comparisions between stock rims 17" and 18" or 19" volk GT-C's? Have any ideas on (if any) HP gains from lighter rims? Just a question...
Turbo is coming along very well...its ALMOST done. Definatley by Friday, but maybe done tomorrow...who knows. All I know is I'll have it by the end of the week.
The wheels...hmm...this is a controversial topic to say the least. If you want my honest opinion, just choose a nice looking forged wheel and be done with it. You'll go nuts trying to find the lightest wheel...and all the wheels/tires are within just a few lbs of one another. For instance, you can buy one of the lighter wheels, such as the Volk LE's, and then accidently buy a heavy *** tire....so the tire/wheel package will offset whatever weight savings you get! good luck!!
The wheels...hmm...this is a controversial topic to say the least. If you want my honest opinion, just choose a nice looking forged wheel and be done with it. You'll go nuts trying to find the lightest wheel...and all the wheels/tires are within just a few lbs of one another. For instance, you can buy one of the lighter wheels, such as the Volk LE's, and then accidently buy a heavy *** tire....so the tire/wheel package will offset whatever weight savings you get! good luck!!
Originally posted by gq_model_626
Turbo is coming along very well...its ALMOST done. Definatley by Friday, but maybe done tomorrow...who knows. All I know is I'll have it by the end of the week.
The wheels...hmm...this is a controversial topic to say the least. If you want my honest opinion, just choose a nice looking forged wheel and be done with it. You'll go nuts trying to find the lightest wheel...and all the wheels/tires are within just a few lbs of one another. For instance, you can buy one of the lighter wheels, such as the Volk LE's, and then accidently buy a heavy *** tire....so the tire/wheel package will offset whatever weight savings you get! good luck!!
Turbo is coming along very well...its ALMOST done. Definatley by Friday, but maybe done tomorrow...who knows. All I know is I'll have it by the end of the week.
The wheels...hmm...this is a controversial topic to say the least. If you want my honest opinion, just choose a nice looking forged wheel and be done with it. You'll go nuts trying to find the lightest wheel...and all the wheels/tires are within just a few lbs of one another. For instance, you can buy one of the lighter wheels, such as the Volk LE's, and then accidently buy a heavy *** tire....so the tire/wheel package will offset whatever weight savings you get! good luck!!
. So when it's time for major work on this (my G35) I'll just pay a reliable shop to do it (I think I'm getting old, not wanting to work on my own car anymore
)
I can recommend two shops. One is Street Image in Baldwin Park, and the other is Dynamic Autosports in Lake Forest. You'll have to call them for current pricing. They both do excellent work.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bcoffee20
Zs & Gs For Sale
5
Nov 19, 2015 06:39 PM



