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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 09:00 AM
  #41  
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by 350zer
Originally posted by tig488
oh ok, i understand now,

actually neither, this was all before we even used yours, it was the luck of the draw, after i did my baseline, and after i did dollars, we loaded my baseline and used that fuel map, then added dollars timing map, the first pull it jumped way up, then the bad happened.
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the second fuel pump is not coming on. over rpm and over pressure are not set right. if you don't set the options before you down load the maps the settings are wrong for are car. every time you make a new customer file you have to do this. on mine over rpm is 500 and over pressure is -3.87. i pm you with phone number if you want anymore info or help.

Over pressure 0 is what Vortech set mine at..........why would you want -3.87......

Check your fuel pump start setting tig.

Last edited by fluidz; Apr 12, 2004 at 09:05 AM.
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 09:21 AM
  #42  
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350zer...
those settings shouldnt matter, i never set them in the first place and my car ran great on previous dynos, it only acted up after i changed maps, again none of those settings are any different from previous runs,

fluidz...
same thing, why would the fuel pump on time be any different, its the same as the previous runs,
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 09:35 AM
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Sounds like we need to draw straws to find out which of us will call Vortech and get the official answer on this and report back.

Forced (ie. Steve Padfield)... Are you reading this?

--Steve
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 10:40 AM
  #44  
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Originally posted by tig488
350zer...
those settings shouldnt matter, i never set them in the first place and my car ran great on previous dynos, it only acted up after i changed maps, again none of those settings are any different from previous runs,

fluidz...
same thing, why would the fuel pump on time be any different, its the same as the previous runs,
like i said before if you don't down load or create a new custermer file right they don't stay the same. i went through this and my over pressure went to 7 and right around 4000 rpm the car fell on its face. you have to check and make sure every thing is the same. the numbers i gave you 500 rpm and -3.87 is what came out of the box from vortech.
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 10:44 AM
  #45  
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ok i see what you are saying, but heres how i did it,

I loaded the baseline run, the one where i pulled 317 straight out of the box, and made adjustments to the timing map, so all in all the settings are the same, they are the same settings as on my baseline run, the exact same, with no adjustments other than timing. so it cant be those settings, they were never messed with.

it has to be something else.
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 10:52 AM
  #46  
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Originally posted by tig488
ok i see what you are saying, but heres how i did it,

I loaded the baseline run, the one where i pulled 317 straight out of the box, and made adjustments to the timing map, so all in all the settings are the same, they are the same settings as on my baseline run, the exact same, with no adjustments other than timing. so it cant be those settings, they were never messed with.

it has to be something else.
you have pm
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 10:57 AM
  #47  
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why PM, i want to understand what you have to say so far its not making any sense. Post what you have to say here 350zer so we can try and make sense of it all.
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 11:03 AM
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Originally posted by fluidz
why PM, i want to understand what you have to say so far its not making any sense. Post what you have to say here 350zer so we can try and make sense of it all.

i don't have time to keep explaining it over and over. i would like to talk to some body on the phone and if they have time they can.
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 11:19 AM
  #49  
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fluidz...

I'm not sure if it will be any help (since you already have a few different maps), but I can try to download my settings and send them to you.

I still haven't tried to hook my laptop and the R5 software to my Split Second box, though. Is it just a standard PC connection of some sort?

Second, can you download/export the settings? Or would I have to print each screen and send you the screen shots?
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 11:26 AM
  #50  
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i just got off the phone with split sec, he had some useful info.

no difference in additional injector controller vs programmable,

outputs A, C and PWM are not used, only B
Over RPM somewhere around 1500-2000 (where 2nd pump turns on)
Over Pressure around 1.0 psi

he tends to think my fuel map #s are too high causing the signal to be too high causing the MAF to shut off, im gonna put a voltmeter on the violet wire and see if it goes over 5 volts. if so i just need to make my fuel map #s lower.
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 11:45 AM
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Try modifying the Zimbo map file rather than modifying your map file. I'll bet the problem will go away.

--Steve
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 11:49 AM
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Originally posted by mcduck
fluidz...

I'm not sure if it will be any help (since you already have a few different maps), but I can try to download my settings and send them to you.

I still haven't tried to hook my laptop and the R5 software to my Split Second box, though. Is it just a standard PC connection of some sort?

Second, can you download/export the settings? Or would I have to print each screen and send you the screen shots?
Yes just use a DB9 9 pin to connect, male / female and once you are connected to the box, set up a new customer and set settings to vacuum/pressure now upload your settings save and email me the dbm? file to www.wicked350z@wicked350z.com PEAS!
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 02:53 PM
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Originally posted by zimbo
Sounds like we need to draw straws to find out which of us will call Vortech and get the official answer on this and report back.

Forced (ie. Steve Padfield)... Are you reading this?

--Steve
I am following along, but this SS stuff is over my head. Looks like I need to get learned.
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 03:42 PM
  #54  
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well damn ,350zer was right, the up output settings were messed up, my baseline was cutting the fuel pump on when rpm hit 500 AND with psi of -3, so basically it was always on, when i did a new file it shifted it to rpm of 500 AND psi of 7, which was too high causing the fuel pump to stay off, because i wasnt getting to 7psi. oh yeah, good going 350zer.
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 03:59 PM
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Originally posted by tig488
well damn ,350zer was right, the up output settings were messed up, my baseline was cutting the fuel pump on when rpm hit 500 AND with psi of -3, so basically it was always on, when i did a new file it shifted it to rpm of 500 AND psi of 7, which was too high causing the fuel pump to stay off, because i wasnt getting to 7psi. oh yeah, good going 350zer.

well i'm glad someone listened. i went through the same thing but i went and found the numbers and compared everything to stock program. i tried calling you but you don't answer
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 04:51 PM
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Cool. That certainly explains why my map file worked and yours didn't.

Seems to me that having the fuel pump kick in at 500 rpm or -3 psi means it's always on of course and you run really rich at idle. Jimmy and I have settings of 3000 rpms or 2.9 psi.

Are the "Fuel start pressure psi" or "Fuel pump run time" or "Fuel pump start time" values used for anything? Jimmy and I have those set but fluidz does not.

--Steve

Last edited by zimbo; Apr 12, 2004 at 04:57 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 05:18 PM
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Originally posted by zimbo
Cool. That certainly explains why my map file worked and yours didn't.

Seems to me that having the fuel pump kick in at 500 rpm or -3 psi means it's always on of course and you run really rich at idle. Jimmy and I have settings of 3000 rpms or 2.9 psi.

Are the "Fuel start pressure psi" or "Fuel pump run time" or "Fuel pump start time" values used for anything? Jimmy and I have those set but fluidz does not.

--Steve

those settings don't apply. any way why would you want to put a time on it. what if time ran out and you were still in boost? lower the numbers and see if your af changes. the only advantage i can see is you don't have a sudden change in fuel pressure if it comes on lower.
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 07:34 PM
  #58  
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Originally posted by zimbo
Cool. That certainly explains why my map file worked and yours didn't.

Seems to me that having the fuel pump kick in at 500 rpm or -3 psi means it's always on of course and you run really rich at idle. Jimmy and I have settings of 3000 rpms or 2.9 psi.

Are the "Fuel start pressure psi" or "Fuel pump run time" or "Fuel pump start time" values used for anything? Jimmy and I have those set but fluidz does not.

--Steve
Set the fuel pump to come on at 500 rpm and 1psi.......that way you are safe for boost yet safe for everyday vacuum driving...........and if you're cruising like most the time running in vacuum mode you are not running the fuel pump because both rpm and boost have to hit for the pump to come on...........at 500rpm and -3psi you can be cruising kinda hard but not really and kick in the fuel pump and you dont need it till boost kicks in thus possibly running rich. With the settings i have set at 500rpm and 1psi i idle at 14.7:1 A/F and cruise with perfect A/F........... ....thank you 350zer........everything you have mentioned was backed up by Mark at SplitSecond.

Well I will hang tight with my 333rwhp for a bit longer untill I understand this SS Box 100%.........getting closer everyday but alot more is to be learned before I turn up the heat.......


oh ya at idle i am at -20psi (Vacuum), even cruising down the highway at 45mph with my foot in the gas barely I am at -10psi (Vacuum)....only when I try to accelerate does the boost start to climb to -3---0 and on under full throttle does it climb to 8psi ........this is all via my BOOST GAUGE.

Last edited by fluidz; Apr 12, 2004 at 07:42 PM.
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Old Apr 12, 2004 | 08:46 PM
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Originally posted by fluidz
Set the fuel pump to come on at 500 rpm and 1psi.......that way you are safe for boost yet safe for everyday vacuum driving...........and if you're cruising like most the time running in vacuum mode you are not running the fuel pump because both rpm and boost have to hit for the pump to come on...........at 500rpm and -3psi you can be cruising kinda hard but not really and kick in the fuel pump and you dont need it till boost kicks in thus possibly running rich. With the settings i have set at 500rpm and 1psi i idle at 14.7:1 A/F and cruise with perfect A/F........... ....thank you 350zer........everything you have mentioned was backed up by Mark at SplitSecond.

Well I will hang tight with my 333rwhp for a bit longer untill I understand this SS Box 100%.........getting closer everyday but alot more is to be learned before I turn up the heat.......


oh ya at idle i am at -20psi (Vacuum), even cruising down the highway at 45mph with my foot in the gas barely I am at -10psi (Vacuum)....only when I try to accelerate does the boost start to climb to -3---0 and on under full throttle does it climb to 8psi ........this is all via my BOOST GAUGE.

sorry i just got tired of saying the samething over and over. that is why i wanted to talk to one of you guys with problem and explain in detail. i also said that the box is always looking to the next cell to. so keep that in mind when u are trying to adjust a/f ratio and timing that at say 5100 rpm you have a problem you need to change the 5500 cell. i've had the vortech and software for a while and plyed with it quite a bit. i just have desided to run mine a little bit more on the save side.
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Old Apr 13, 2004 | 02:57 AM
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"500rpm AND 1psi" doesn't make sense to me because you'll never ever see 1psi at 500 rpms. Might as well set it to 2500 rpms and 1psi. Of course my setting of "3000rpm OR 2.9psi" doesn't make sense either because 3000rpm is always going to be the turn-on trigger.

--Steve
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