Zimbo....you need the box checked "RPM and Pressure" basically meaning both need to be acheived in order for your settings to kick in. 500rpm and 1psi your fuel pump will not start untill you hit 1psi regardless of RPM as it obviously will be more than 500rpm after that A/F ratios are maintained completely by rpm, timing is controlled by RPM and PSI........


"RPM and Pressure".......the key word in that is "AND"

Hope this helps!

 

that is correct fluidz. it is for safety. both numbers have to be met for the pump to turn on. its so the pump does'nt turn on when you turn the key on or are just sitting there with the motor running.

 

im setting mine at 1500rpms, and 1.0 psi, thats what split second recommended

no wonder all my runs i was REAL rich, my damn fuel pump was on continuously, no wonder my mpg sucks too.

zimbo, no those other variables arent needed, dont mess with those.

oh i cant wait to try the dyno this weekend with that map giving me 20-30 more hp/tq,

400HP HERE I COME---WOO HOO!

 

Go get-umm Tiger!!!!!!

 

The Vortech comes with an aux fuel pump, correct? Is that the ONLY fuel enrichment used, ie NO injectors, correct? What lph is it?

If I'm understanding "Gauge Pressure" correctly, that's what your in-cabin gauge and what the dyno shows, correct? However, the left PSI column values on BOTH maps can't be the same or the Maps don't really make sense to me.

If it was the same, for vacuum-8.5psi they added only 2% fuel, then for 9.0-10.0psi 0%?!?!

For 10.5psi@2000rpm-26psi@5500rpm BLOCK they add in 2%, 4%, 6%, 7%, 10%, 13%, etc. at different RPM like they were tuning for that operating range. I think that BLOCK is where tuning occurs, ie add atomospheric pressure, for the internal 2.5bar sensor that some FTC1s come with maybe?

Also, Vortech goes back to 0%(10.0) for 6000-8000rpm, because the aux fuel pump provides excess fuel and they want it rich by the AFR chart dipping into the low-mid 10s, so no correction is used.

On Map B for Timing, assuming the same PSI theory, I would increase the timing retard value as PSI increases also. Depending on what you want your FINAL max retard to be at X-psi, I'd do something like this:

(PSI,RPM,Degree Retard)
-------------------------------
(08.5, 5000, 1.0)|(08.5, 5500, 2.0)|(08.5, 6000, 3.0)...
(09.0, 5000, 1.1)|(09.0, 5500, 2.1)|(09.0, 6000, 3.1)...
(09.5, 5000, 1.2)|(09.5, 5500, 2.2)|(09.5, 6000, 3.2)...
(10.0, 5000, 1.3)|(10.0, 5500, 2.3)|(10.0, 6000, 3.3)...
.
.
.
(26.0, 5000, 4.5)|(26.0, 5500, 5.5)|(26.0, 6000, 6.5)...


However, since SC guys are pulley limited, it's probably not necessary.

 

Here...this might help you see what BLOCK I'm seeing(lower yellow block):



[edit]Sorry, didn't come out too good.[/edit]

 

Timing Map:

 

those charts where uploaded with the default settings not set correctly so they are hard to make sense of.

 

Can you take new pictures in the correct "mode" please.

Thanks.

 

Yes I will tonight for you and post here.

 

Well, I hope my car runs okay out of the box with the vortech, as all this talk about the program is going over my head sometimes.
Nobody in the UK has used this program yet, so finding a tuner to get his head round it may be costly.

 

Any progress?

Thanks.

 

How do I get a copy of R4 software?

 

Ya gotta buy it, or maybe someone here will lend it to you. Price has gone up to 40.00 usd. Kinda pi$$ed me off when i spend all this cash on a vortech and dont get the software included.