Greddy Twin Turbo Kit! We've got NEW Numbers!!
#41
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With 104-octane, timing is less of a concern, especially considering he's running just over 4-bar on 440s...I'd guess "extremely rich" means 10:1 range.
spz33 - Nice...very nice. Can I at least ask if you intend on always running 104-octane and 8.8psi or is that just for 'special occasions', ie track days/race nights?
spz33 - Nice...very nice. Can I at least ask if you intend on always running 104-octane and 8.8psi or is that just for 'special occasions', ie track days/race nights?
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Wow they actually told us it's 104 octane, how could you guys devulge such information? :-)
I understand that you wanna keep the A/F ratio a little secret, but it's really no big deal to disclose. Rule of thumb. Don't go over 12:1 on the dyno while in boost w/o messing with timing and running pump gas. You guys didn't mess with timing, good luck with that and you said yourself that you a/f is off.
Sounds like you need help! Keep your A/F chart. Members on this forum share. If you are here to just brag about your HP, I don't think anyone is interested. My .02 cents
I understand that you wanna keep the A/F ratio a little secret, but it's really no big deal to disclose. Rule of thumb. Don't go over 12:1 on the dyno while in boost w/o messing with timing and running pump gas. You guys didn't mess with timing, good luck with that and you said yourself that you a/f is off.
Sounds like you need help! Keep your A/F chart. Members on this forum share. If you are here to just brag about your HP, I don't think anyone is interested. My .02 cents
#43
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Originally posted by Jon@ptp
Thats what they used to say about supras 5 years ago.
Thats what they used to say about supras 5 years ago.
#44
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Originally posted by IceY2K1Max
With 104-octane, timing is less of a concern, especially considering he's running just over 4-bar on 440s...I'd guess "extremely rich" means 10:1 range.
spz33 - Nice...very nice. Can I at least ask if you intend on always running 104-octane and 8.8psi or is that just for 'special occasions', ie track days/race nights?
With 104-octane, timing is less of a concern, especially considering he's running just over 4-bar on 440s...I'd guess "extremely rich" means 10:1 range.
spz33 - Nice...very nice. Can I at least ask if you intend on always running 104-octane and 8.8psi or is that just for 'special occasions', ie track days/race nights?
Bassam...I agree with you as well...
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Model,
I want to second the reasoning for lack of timing retard - 104 octane is pretty damn high.
SP,
Eventually, ideal A/F lines will come out from other people, so why not go ahead and release yours and get props from everyone for it?
I want to second the reasoning for lack of timing retard - 104 octane is pretty damn high.
SP,
Eventually, ideal A/F lines will come out from other people, so why not go ahead and release yours and get props from everyone for it?
#46
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Here is mine. Now this is proprietery..so listen up...if you use my A/F ratios...I will sue you for theft of intellectual property. FYI: this is 5psi with stock tune and only reving to 6100. I only had the kit for a week and was scared to push it to redline. I am estimating about 350 at 6600. Stock exhuast as well...just RT cats.
http://www.savepic.com/is.php?i=4313...Popcharger.jpg
http://www.savepic.com/is.php?i=4312&img=AF_Table.jpg
http://www.savepic.com/is.php?i=4313...Popcharger.jpg
http://www.savepic.com/is.php?i=4312&img=AF_Table.jpg
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I'm curious to know how lean the AFR can get on 104-octane withOUT timing, but really who cares unless it's purely a track car?
I'd rather tune it for a water/alcohol Aquamist setup on pump gas and spend $2-$3/gallon vs. $5+/gallon.
I'd rather tune it for a water/alcohol Aquamist setup on pump gas and spend $2-$3/gallon vs. $5+/gallon.
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My proprietery secret...J/K...FI engines best friend and worth its weight in GOLD for 91-CRAPtane pump gas:
http://waterinjection.info/documents...rinjection.htm
http://waterinjection.info/phpBB2/
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/
http://members.***.net/stevemonroe/AlcoholInjMod.html
http://waterinjection.info/documents...rinjection.htm
http://waterinjection.info/phpBB2/
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/
http://members.***.net/stevemonroe/AlcoholInjMod.html
"Water injection is not a new idea, being first used in the 1930s, yet the principles remain the same today and are popular with the rallying fraternity, and it is now common knowledge that in the recent past, the factory rally teams of Peugeot and Renault, as well as the Volvo Touring Car teams have used water injection and you'll also find them fitted to the first Escort Cosworths and even the latest turbo'd Saab road cars are fitted with water injection as standard.
It is a well known fact that water does not burn but it is an efficient coolant (why else would most engines be water rather than air cooled), so it makes good sense to use it to reduce peak combustion and inlet air temperatures. This is achieved due to water having a high specific heat capacity and latent heat of evaporation, or in English, it's excellent at absorbing heat. It can therefore be used to control induction temperatures on high performance normally aspirated and turbo'd engines. Also water injection can be used to reduce high air temperatures making the air denser. If you get more air into the engine you can add more fuel and gain power.
The combustion process mixes air and fuel which is burnt to create energy, once you have an efficient fuel metering system the power output is governed by the amount of air that the engine can draw into its cylinders. With intake restriction removed, a normally aspirated engine is limited by atmospheric pressure, unless you add a turbo or supercharger. These devices compress the air as they force it into the engine at a greater pressure, known as boost pressure. Water injection is just another device for increasing the amount of air drawn into the engine as cooling the air makes it denser so there's more to mix with fuel.
You should notice that your car performs better in cool, damp weather conditions and this is because the air is denser which means more fuel will be burnt with the extra air and the resulting air/fuel ratio will be neater to optimum(assuming the engine is jetted correctly normally in cold conditions). By adding a water injection system to your vehicle it is possible to artificially simulating these conditions and adjusting the turbo boost level or advancing the timing it is possible to achieve an increased power and fuel economy, whilst suppressing detonation and producing less harmful emissions, cleaner pistons, valves and plugs.
A simple way of testing this theory is to measure acceleration on two days with opposite weather conditions.
First try it on a hot, dry day when the air is warm and thin, then compare it with a cold wet winter's day and you will see that the car will be faster on the cold wet day, because the cold, wet air is denser (more of it) than the warm air and as most simple fuel metering devices can detect dense air the fuel is increased to match. Another application for water injection is to reduce or prevent detonation by reducing the combustion temperature. If an engine starts to detonate, injecting water into the inlet tract will stop it occurring. With this in mind it is possible to advance your engines ignition timing to achieve more power (which would normally put the engine at risk of detonation), and to prevent engine failure by injecting water. A test was carried out on a normally aspirated engine, which proved the ignition timing could be advanced by 6 degrees more than normal and low octane unleaded fuel used instead of four star when a water injection system was fitted. This worked out to produce a saving of 20% on fuel costs.
With turbo charged cars, there is an uncontrollable temptation by the vehicle owners to keep winding up the boost a little more, or add a turbo upgrade, both of which pressurise and heat the gases even more than the increased levels that the initial turbo set up achieves. Adding an up rated inter cooler in an attempt to combat the temperatures will certainly help, but temperatures are still bound to rise uncontrollably above acceptable levels. lf the temperatures and pressures rise too high, detonation occurs, with the fuel auto igniting before the spark plug should be doing its job. It's the same as running massive amounts of ignition advance, and ends the same by melting piston crowns. The aim of water injection is to get the inlet temperature down to the optimum temperature of, as above this temperature the risk of detonation increases. Intake air at a turbo outlet is capable of reaching 120C at a boost of I bar and as high as 165C at 1.5 bar, so you can see why there is a problem. A standard inter cooler will normally fail to cool effectively, and a 50% increase in inter cooler size will only reduce temperatures by 60 - 75C, depending on boost pressure and vehicle specification. Water can prevent these temperature rises when injected into the air intake stream by reducing the inlet charge temperature, giving rise to improved volumetric efficiency of the engine. Additionally the evaporating water reduces the charge temperature prior to ignition, reducing the possibility of pre-ignition due to hot spots in the cylinder head. Water is the best choice for intake charge cooling because it's readily available, cheap and can be stored under the bonnet in a suitable reservoir, plus it absorbs heat better than most other liquids.
Lets see how good water is as a coolant, by passing air at 120C through a tube at a rate of 5kg per minute. At the center of that tube, we sprayed 50gms per minute of water at 25C. and found the final air temperature was 95C. a large reduction. For l00g of water per minute, the final air temperature was 70C, a reduction of 43% in temperature, while 200g reduced air temperature to 25C an 80% reduction. In other words, a flow of 200g of water per minute injected into the air stream, totally absorbed all of the heat in the air. Obviously modified engines will benefit most due to their higher pre-combustion pressures and temperatures (usually caused by higher compression ratios)
On a test car which had an induction air temperature at the butterfly of 70C at full boost a 43% reduction was needed to reach the optimum of 40C. The equations indicated 100g/min of water would be required to achieve the desired temperature drop. Several tests at different induction temperature levels were carried out to see if per*formance was affected. The tests started with 100 to 150g per minute and revealed that slightly more cooling was needed, the jet was changed accord*ingly and brought the charge temperature at the butterfly from 70C right down to 43C. Another series of tests were carried out, when the ignition was advanced and boost increased progressively to show the benefits of water injection. With the timing at 15 degrees and 12psi boost there was no difference in power with the water injection operated. As the boost was increased however, some big power gains were achieved. An average RS Turbo engine with standard compression would normally run about 11 degrees advance and detonation would occur at about 14 psi of boost. With an unusually advanced 15degrees of timing it would knock above 13 psi, but the tests showed it was possible to ignore timing and boost limitations and find 210 bhp and 233 lb-ft without any sign of detonation. An added bonus was driving the car on the road, the improved smoothness of the engine at high revs was very noticeable. The potential of water injection for anyone wanting to run high boost safely is obvious and it's also applicable to engines that run lots of advance and suffer detonation. With water injection you get peace of mind even if you don't go for more power.
Whilst the results of these tests are good it is possible to make the induction air temperature too cold and it is vitally important to inject the correct amount of water as at some point the volume of water needed to correct the temperature can be too much for correct combustion and power is lost. If the temperature drops below 40C, "fuel dropout" can occur, a phenomena where fuel vapours turn into droplets which won't burn as efficiently and can cause a weak mixture which can ultimately have the same catastrophic consequences as high inlet temperatures"
It is a well known fact that water does not burn but it is an efficient coolant (why else would most engines be water rather than air cooled), so it makes good sense to use it to reduce peak combustion and inlet air temperatures. This is achieved due to water having a high specific heat capacity and latent heat of evaporation, or in English, it's excellent at absorbing heat. It can therefore be used to control induction temperatures on high performance normally aspirated and turbo'd engines. Also water injection can be used to reduce high air temperatures making the air denser. If you get more air into the engine you can add more fuel and gain power.
The combustion process mixes air and fuel which is burnt to create energy, once you have an efficient fuel metering system the power output is governed by the amount of air that the engine can draw into its cylinders. With intake restriction removed, a normally aspirated engine is limited by atmospheric pressure, unless you add a turbo or supercharger. These devices compress the air as they force it into the engine at a greater pressure, known as boost pressure. Water injection is just another device for increasing the amount of air drawn into the engine as cooling the air makes it denser so there's more to mix with fuel.
You should notice that your car performs better in cool, damp weather conditions and this is because the air is denser which means more fuel will be burnt with the extra air and the resulting air/fuel ratio will be neater to optimum(assuming the engine is jetted correctly normally in cold conditions). By adding a water injection system to your vehicle it is possible to artificially simulating these conditions and adjusting the turbo boost level or advancing the timing it is possible to achieve an increased power and fuel economy, whilst suppressing detonation and producing less harmful emissions, cleaner pistons, valves and plugs.
A simple way of testing this theory is to measure acceleration on two days with opposite weather conditions.
First try it on a hot, dry day when the air is warm and thin, then compare it with a cold wet winter's day and you will see that the car will be faster on the cold wet day, because the cold, wet air is denser (more of it) than the warm air and as most simple fuel metering devices can detect dense air the fuel is increased to match. Another application for water injection is to reduce or prevent detonation by reducing the combustion temperature. If an engine starts to detonate, injecting water into the inlet tract will stop it occurring. With this in mind it is possible to advance your engines ignition timing to achieve more power (which would normally put the engine at risk of detonation), and to prevent engine failure by injecting water. A test was carried out on a normally aspirated engine, which proved the ignition timing could be advanced by 6 degrees more than normal and low octane unleaded fuel used instead of four star when a water injection system was fitted. This worked out to produce a saving of 20% on fuel costs.
With turbo charged cars, there is an uncontrollable temptation by the vehicle owners to keep winding up the boost a little more, or add a turbo upgrade, both of which pressurise and heat the gases even more than the increased levels that the initial turbo set up achieves. Adding an up rated inter cooler in an attempt to combat the temperatures will certainly help, but temperatures are still bound to rise uncontrollably above acceptable levels. lf the temperatures and pressures rise too high, detonation occurs, with the fuel auto igniting before the spark plug should be doing its job. It's the same as running massive amounts of ignition advance, and ends the same by melting piston crowns. The aim of water injection is to get the inlet temperature down to the optimum temperature of, as above this temperature the risk of detonation increases. Intake air at a turbo outlet is capable of reaching 120C at a boost of I bar and as high as 165C at 1.5 bar, so you can see why there is a problem. A standard inter cooler will normally fail to cool effectively, and a 50% increase in inter cooler size will only reduce temperatures by 60 - 75C, depending on boost pressure and vehicle specification. Water can prevent these temperature rises when injected into the air intake stream by reducing the inlet charge temperature, giving rise to improved volumetric efficiency of the engine. Additionally the evaporating water reduces the charge temperature prior to ignition, reducing the possibility of pre-ignition due to hot spots in the cylinder head. Water is the best choice for intake charge cooling because it's readily available, cheap and can be stored under the bonnet in a suitable reservoir, plus it absorbs heat better than most other liquids.
Lets see how good water is as a coolant, by passing air at 120C through a tube at a rate of 5kg per minute. At the center of that tube, we sprayed 50gms per minute of water at 25C. and found the final air temperature was 95C. a large reduction. For l00g of water per minute, the final air temperature was 70C, a reduction of 43% in temperature, while 200g reduced air temperature to 25C an 80% reduction. In other words, a flow of 200g of water per minute injected into the air stream, totally absorbed all of the heat in the air. Obviously modified engines will benefit most due to their higher pre-combustion pressures and temperatures (usually caused by higher compression ratios)
On a test car which had an induction air temperature at the butterfly of 70C at full boost a 43% reduction was needed to reach the optimum of 40C. The equations indicated 100g/min of water would be required to achieve the desired temperature drop. Several tests at different induction temperature levels were carried out to see if per*formance was affected. The tests started with 100 to 150g per minute and revealed that slightly more cooling was needed, the jet was changed accord*ingly and brought the charge temperature at the butterfly from 70C right down to 43C. Another series of tests were carried out, when the ignition was advanced and boost increased progressively to show the benefits of water injection. With the timing at 15 degrees and 12psi boost there was no difference in power with the water injection operated. As the boost was increased however, some big power gains were achieved. An average RS Turbo engine with standard compression would normally run about 11 degrees advance and detonation would occur at about 14 psi of boost. With an unusually advanced 15degrees of timing it would knock above 13 psi, but the tests showed it was possible to ignore timing and boost limitations and find 210 bhp and 233 lb-ft without any sign of detonation. An added bonus was driving the car on the road, the improved smoothness of the engine at high revs was very noticeable. The potential of water injection for anyone wanting to run high boost safely is obvious and it's also applicable to engines that run lots of advance and suffer detonation. With water injection you get peace of mind even if you don't go for more power.
Whilst the results of these tests are good it is possible to make the induction air temperature too cold and it is vitally important to inject the correct amount of water as at some point the volume of water needed to correct the temperature can be too much for correct combustion and power is lost. If the temperature drops below 40C, "fuel dropout" can occur, a phenomena where fuel vapours turn into droplets which won't burn as efficiently and can cause a weak mixture which can ultimately have the same catastrophic consequences as high inlet temperatures"
#50
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GQ.... what do you do immediately after the turbo kit is installed?
How can you start the car if there's no map programmed in the Profec, or does it start off really rich like the fuel controller for the ProCharger? I don't know much about this area.
How do you set the boost, or do you have to purchase a boost controller to run at higher levels?
Someone here can jump in... I'm craving for this kit.
Here, we have 91 octane. One station a few minutes away has 93 octane, and I've been using it despite high gas prices.
I'd really like to aim for 400HP with my car, but I was wondering if it was okay for daily driving using at least 91 octane?
12s is good enough. At least I don't have to think about a Z06 anymore...
Anyone having problems getting into gear when tach is in the upper range?
How can you start the car if there's no map programmed in the Profec, or does it start off really rich like the fuel controller for the ProCharger? I don't know much about this area.
How do you set the boost, or do you have to purchase a boost controller to run at higher levels?
Someone here can jump in... I'm craving for this kit.
Here, we have 91 octane. One station a few minutes away has 93 octane, and I've been using it despite high gas prices.
I'd really like to aim for 400HP with my car, but I was wondering if it was okay for daily driving using at least 91 octane?
12s is good enough. At least I don't have to think about a Z06 anymore...
Anyone having problems getting into gear when tach is in the upper range?
#51
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DJ, wow...lots of questions there...
The eManage is what controlls the bigger injectors and intercepts the MAF so fuel and air and in alignment. The stock eManage map is fine for 6psi or less, and it runs on the rich side. If you stay at under 6psi, no further tuning is really necessary..the car should run fine.
My boost is currently set at 6psi, but I did my dyno runs at 5psi. I can adjust the boost via the Profect e-01 which is a combincation boost controller, emanage program, and data logger. Don't increase the boost above 6psi witout addressing the timing (whic currently isn't done by the eManage..but will be soon), and as you approach 8psi, I think the stock fuel pump starts to crap out...so you may wanna replace that too, and run a regulator.
I run 91 octane gas and that's what the kit is designed for. If you can get 93...even better.
If you want 400whp reliably, you'll need to boost about 8 to 8.5psi, MAYBE install a new fuel pump and reg, and definatley get some timing retarding in the system.
Now what is this stuff about your gear box? Wrong forum for that question. But since I am bored....many people have trouble with their trannys and grinding into just about every gear...even at low RPM's. If it bothers you, take it to your Nissan dealer and they will swap out the tranny under warranty. Personally, I have no trouble speed shifting into 2nd and laying down a 3 second rolling burner!
The eManage is what controlls the bigger injectors and intercepts the MAF so fuel and air and in alignment. The stock eManage map is fine for 6psi or less, and it runs on the rich side. If you stay at under 6psi, no further tuning is really necessary..the car should run fine.
My boost is currently set at 6psi, but I did my dyno runs at 5psi. I can adjust the boost via the Profect e-01 which is a combincation boost controller, emanage program, and data logger. Don't increase the boost above 6psi witout addressing the timing (whic currently isn't done by the eManage..but will be soon), and as you approach 8psi, I think the stock fuel pump starts to crap out...so you may wanna replace that too, and run a regulator.
I run 91 octane gas and that's what the kit is designed for. If you can get 93...even better.
If you want 400whp reliably, you'll need to boost about 8 to 8.5psi, MAYBE install a new fuel pump and reg, and definatley get some timing retarding in the system.
Now what is this stuff about your gear box? Wrong forum for that question. But since I am bored....many people have trouble with their trannys and grinding into just about every gear...even at low RPM's. If it bothers you, take it to your Nissan dealer and they will swap out the tranny under warranty. Personally, I have no trouble speed shifting into 2nd and laying down a 3 second rolling burner!
#53
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Originally posted by gq_model_626
ICE...that is an interesting read...I skimmed through most of it.
So really, its application is more suited to the drag strip..right? I mean..it would not be something you'd use on a daily basis. And where would you store this alcohol water mix?
ICE...that is an interesting read...I skimmed through most of it.
So really, its application is more suited to the drag strip..right? I mean..it would not be something you'd use on a daily basis. And where would you store this alcohol water mix?
It is designed for any setup and recommended even moreso for street use. It's really simple to do, although you kind of can't back up once you've drilled a hole in your intake.
We noticed a difference in higher revs. The car ran smoother. I didn't know about the different precautions for making sure you dont run the air to cool, but I'm pretty sure that would take a lot of water in a turbo setup.
I'd play with it as it is an interesting concept and has been used in street cars over and over.
Read the whole thing by the way
Last edited by bknezevic; 04-16-2004 at 05:03 AM.
#54
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Salesmen never fail to amaze me with their ridiculous statements. Target fuel mixes are well documented all kinds of motors.
Let me guess your secret a/f is 3.14159265:1 The secret mystery of Pi! Oh that's amazing. You guys are real inovators.
IceY2k1: Propane injection IMO!
http://www.bankspower.com/tech_propane.cfm
Let me guess your secret a/f is 3.14159265:1 The secret mystery of Pi! Oh that's amazing. You guys are real inovators.
Originally posted by Jon@ptp
But where does this tuner get the target a/f ratio??
From experience with certain cars and/or other people who have already done it.
Different cars are tuned for different air/fuel ratios depending on the strength of that particular car. Saying that 11.5-12.5 is good is not always true.
But where does this tuner get the target a/f ratio??
From experience with certain cars and/or other people who have already done it.
Different cars are tuned for different air/fuel ratios depending on the strength of that particular car. Saying that 11.5-12.5 is good is not always true.
IceY2k1: Propane injection IMO!
http://www.bankspower.com/tech_propane.cfm
Last edited by etx; 04-16-2004 at 07:43 AM.
#55
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No, it's daily driven that way.
Max guys use the windshield washer reservior, since it's got a "low level" light that comes on the dash if it ever gets low.
It doesn't use much water at all since you set it to come on at X-psi, I've heard toping it off every couple gas refills is plenty.
Water is the better cooling agent, but the alcohol will bump the octane of 91-octane pump gas up to around 113-octane for FREE, well it's actually ~$10 for a gallon of the alcohol at Home Depot but goes a long way, since you only use 70/30 ratio of water/alcohol.
Everybody here should be using this. OEMs use Aquamist for turbocharged vehicles in Europe such as on the Ford Cosworth and Rally cars live, breath, and swear by it.
Max guys use the windshield washer reservior, since it's got a "low level" light that comes on the dash if it ever gets low.
It doesn't use much water at all since you set it to come on at X-psi, I've heard toping it off every couple gas refills is plenty.
Water is the better cooling agent, but the alcohol will bump the octane of 91-octane pump gas up to around 113-octane for FREE, well it's actually ~$10 for a gallon of the alcohol at Home Depot but goes a long way, since you only use 70/30 ratio of water/alcohol.
Everybody here should be using this. OEMs use Aquamist for turbocharged vehicles in Europe such as on the Ford Cosworth and Rally cars live, breath, and swear by it.
Originally posted by gq_model_626
ICE...that is an interesting read...I skimmed through most of it.
So really, its application is more suited to the drag strip..right? I mean..it would not be something you'd use on a daily basis. And where would you store this alcohol water mix?
ICE...that is an interesting read...I skimmed through most of it.
So really, its application is more suited to the drag strip..right? I mean..it would not be something you'd use on a daily basis. And where would you store this alcohol water mix?
#56
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Disiel trucks don't mind the added heft of a propane tank, but I think you'd have a hard time stuffing that in the Z...LOL!
Anyways, I'm to paranoid to drive around with a gas can or N20 bottle out here in the heat, so that's DEFINITELY not in the question.
Good idea/method though.
Anyways, I'm to paranoid to drive around with a gas can or N20 bottle out here in the heat, so that's DEFINITELY not in the question.
Good idea/method though.
Originally posted by etx
IceY2k1: Propane injection IMO!
http://www.bankspower.com/tech_propane.cfm [/B]
IceY2k1: Propane injection IMO!
http://www.bankspower.com/tech_propane.cfm [/B]
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Originally posted by spz33
A/F readings i'm sorry are for in house use only. I can tell you that the reading is really really rich. I'm sorry for the mixup, the car was at 8.8lbs of boost. It is a dynojet. Thanks for looking.
A/F readings i'm sorry are for in house use only. I can tell you that the reading is really really rich. I'm sorry for the mixup, the car was at 8.8lbs of boost. It is a dynojet. Thanks for looking.
LMAO.....wtf ?
What would one accomplish by keeping their AF #'s a secret ? You think someone is going to steal your AF #'s.....
It makes people think that maybe you leaned the car out to achieve the higher #'s
--wes
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Guranteed the car is not leaned out, in fact it's running way too rich. I would like to show everyone the graph just to prove we didn't lean the car out, but I won't. It's pointless. I"m not trying to say our tuning is "better" than yours. I was simply stating what we acheived with what the car had on it at the time of dyno. People are fast to jump to conclusions. We have been tuning cars for years now statisfying our customers with their needs of having power. For those of you that would like the same, feel free to give us a call.
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Originally posted by spz33
Guranteed the car is not leaned out, in fact it's running way too rich.
Guranteed the car is not leaned out, in fact it's running way too rich.
Originally posted by spz33
As far as without the gas, we dynoed the car and got 401 at the wheel. We gained a little over 20hp with the new exhaust as well.
As far as without the gas, we dynoed the car and got 401 at the wheel. We gained a little over 20hp with the new exhaust as well.
My question is WHY do you guys SAE correct on a FI car? Can you post the CF or uncorrected numbers?