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Not exactly...did you know that when your car is detonating/on the verge of detonating, your EGT will actually go down? In your example, you'd actually think you are going rich, when in fact, you are going lean. EGT is an important gauge, but in my opinion, I would take a quality wideband A/F as my first priority guage. There is tremendous peace of mind to look at the guage while driving and know you are sufficiently rich.

For normal operating condition..not race condition..this is my order of priority for guages.

Boost, A/F, EGT, Fuel PSI ,Oil Temp.

Currently, i am running the first two guages.

 

a bov is a bov. only thing you should considers in the size of the valve inside. The more boost you have the bigger the valve should be to allow more air to escape when it does blow off. Most people want the larger wastegate but if you are running high boost and the thing vents your not letting out as much exhaust gas as you would if you were on a low boost.

Sound is relative. Just pick one with the sound you like. The Tial bov sounds good. I had the greddy TypeR on my honda and it sounded like a high pitched whistle then a rush of air. I personally like the HKS SSQ.

 

I had the HKS SSQ on my wrx with a FMIC. The HKS sounds like a high pitched whistle with the stock insert. If you open up the BOV and take out the insert, then you will get a nice low pitched "KSHHHHHH"

 

Yeah I'm just curious how hard it will be to install the BOV later if I don't get one on during the turbo install..

 

Good to know...I'll have to try that.

 

It's not too hard. The bumper cover would need to be removed again, and you'd just remove the intercooler discharge pipe. Not too terribly difficult.

The HKS SSQ is actually mechanically superior to the Greddy Type S and many other BOV's. It is designed to not leak boost...which is sometimes an issue with the Greddy.

 

Nice Car Domain website Cheston. Probably one of the reasons why I chose to get a Z in the first place.

 

Do the Greddy downpipes come with O2 bungs?

 

I would recommend that you get the BOV flange welded onto the IC piping before its installed. Just MAKE SURE that you test fit the pipe in the car with the BOV and check to make sure that the BOV wont hit anything after it is installed.

If you get the HKS BOV, then you will also need the "BOV adapter flange" with it. The flange cost an extra $10. Then you need to find a shop that does welding with aluminum to weld the flange to the pipe, and drill the hole.

After its installed, you would then need find a Vaccum tube coming off of your intake manifold. Then get a "T" fitting and tap your BOV into it with another "boost/vac" tube. If you dont connect your BOV with a tube/hose to your intake manifold, then it wont work at all.

I know this is comon knowledge to boost junkies but I figured I would post it for you guys that are new to forced induction.

 

Just a quick update to this thread...

I was supposed to get the car back last Saturday from the shop. Instead, I was told it wouldn't be ready by then... so, I had to go to the huge east-coast Z meet in my brother's 745 ;-0

Needless to say it's almost Thursday and I still don't have my car. I haven't gotten any valid explanations for the delay except the fact that they're working on it.

Oh well, the wait continues. I sure know how to make good choices, lol.

 

The Tial BOV's are very nice and not loud or high pitched. I had the older style BlitZ but the leaked under higher boost so I replaced them with these pretty red Tial 50mm

 

That was you in the Atco meet with the 7 series bmw? That's cool. Sorry to get off-topic .

 

I see a lot of you guys have the Greddy TT kit. THats good to know, I'm hoping to get one soon. Has any one run into any problems with theirs? Like fuel delivery and what not? Please let me kno, I'm anxious to get this kit, i just don't want to run into any problems later. Thanks

 

The kit takes MUCH longer than most mechanics realize. I would double their ETA. It will be worth the wait!

 

Heheh, big pimpin baby.

 

Mine went in last Tues and I was told it would be ready end of day last Thurs (definitely by Fri ). I drove it out of the shop last night at 7PM and that doesn't include dyno tuning (happening today). GQ's estimate of 2x ETA is pretty accurate.

-D

 

Maybe,

But I'm still pissed... it's now going to be over 5 days late, approaching a week.