Ran on the dyno this afternoon. I drove like a pus today since I didn't know what the enigine was doing fuel wise, and then after getting it dialed in on the dyno, it poured the whole way home. Can't win.

Since I initialized the eManage, I had to set the boost. We went though the auto-learn procedure but had problems. Doing 3rd and 4th gear WOT runs, the boost would jump to around 4.7 and then slowly climb like it is supposed to. However, it would only get to 5 - 5.2 and fluctuate there until 6500 RPM and we had to lay off. We tried different combinations of Set/Gain/Start (6/10/4, 6/10/5, 6.5/12/3.7, etc) but still no luck.

I switched to manual mode (low boost) and here is what we got:

Dyno run 008
Set: 30%
Gain: 10
Start: 4

Max boost: 6.7psi
Max power = 374.5
Max torque = 358.4

After 6000 RPM it started to go lean, peaking at 13.2 (possible detonation, I didn't hear it but someone said they did)

We tried adjusting the add injector map by adding 5% to the last 2 rows in columns 500 - 650 so it looked like

___| 500 550 600 650
4.80 35.0 35.0 38.0 35.0
5.00 35.0 38.0 38.0 35.0

but that seemed to make it worse so I set them back.

Dyno run 009
Set: 25%
Gain: 10
Start: 4

Max boost: 6.5psi
Max power = 367.1
Max torque = 336.0

The fuel curve looks identical, but a few ticks lower on the graph, peaking at 12

This is how we left the car for now. The high boost and overtake boost are unprogrammed.

The lines on the dyno print-out are too faint for my scanner to pickup, so I'm bringing it to work tomorrow to see if the copier can darken it up. I will then scan it and post.

Hopefully, forum members can pool their data here and help others.

1. Can I add fuel to correct this? (how/what numbers)

or 2. Do I start looking at a 255 pump and Aero DFMU?

-D

 

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/70497-ultimate-racing-on-fuel-and-timing.html

Read this for some ideas on fueling the TT Z. Some good points made.

 

Thanks g356gear,

I sent them an email last week and they requested info on my current setup. I haven't heard back yet, maybe I'll send another.

I finally got a somewhat readable scan of the dyno.



With a larger version here:
http://www.derek.com/350z/dyno-29Apr04_large.jpg

-D

 

I just received a reply from Darryl at Ultimate Racing. I'll talk to my mechanic this afternoon about doing the work, and how long the car will be OOC. You need to send parts to Ultimate, so turn-around time is also important.

-D

 

Derk, I am getting nervouse about those A/F numbers. I would leave you boost at 5-5.5psi at most until you address the fueling. The reason you are leaning out is that your fuel pressure is dropping at higher RPM's. Unfortunately, increasing the values in the add injector map will not help you at all. The injectors are already at 100% duty cycle at about 5000rpm. They simply arent getting enough fuel pressure after 5krpm What you really need is a Walbro 255 fuel pump. This is a quick and cheap solution to richen up the fuel curve, and keep you from leaning out at higher RPM's. You will likely need to scale down the injectors a bit since you'll be overpressurizing the injectors at idle and cruise. Just goto parameters and change the after injector size to like 500cc or something...you'll have to play with it a bit to get the car running cleanly and smoothly.

The 255 fuel pump is a decent fix..but not perfect..becuase as others have noted, the fuel pressure will still drop becuase of that pesky in tank regulator and lack of return line. But the pressure will still be greater than stock, and should provide the fuel you need for 7-8 psi or so.

Stage two fueling system would be to run a return line, a bypass/elimination of the stock fuel pump reg, and some kind of boost dependent fuel-pump regulator.

Personally, I am going to just install the 255 fuel pump for now.

I hope this helps.

Hey...did you do any timing adjustments? If so...what?

 

.

 

No timing adjustments yet, I should have the harness wired in next week but I don't know enough about timing to start playing with it. I was hoping someone would go there before me

On the A/F numbers, run 8 is definitely no good, but I think run 9 is fine, peaking at around 12. That is my low boost setting right now (30%/10/4 = 6.5psi).

You are right about the fuel pressure. I sent an email to Ultimate Racing to see if their system is good with the Walbro unit (they list theirs as "Custom 255lph Intank Fuel Pump"). If it is, I'll have the Walbro installed next week (I don't want to waste money if I have to replace it). Update: as I'm writing this, I just got an email from Ultimate. The Walbro pump will not work with their system

I hope they don't mind me posting this but these guys seem to really know their stuff...

No you can't! Actually, the fuel pump we use is the most important part of the
fuel system! If we could just use a regular Walbro 255lph we would've and
it would've saved everyone a lot of headache.

I will also get the GReddy FP Warning gauge and log it to the E-01. I will then be able to record runs with boost, RPM, A/F and Fuel Pressure on the E-01. Now I need to figure out how to get it on the computer so all of us can look at it. (jesseenglish? )

-D

 

The good thing is your f'up your motor by retard the timing too much. You engine will just run sluggish and rough. I would just try with 2,4,6 degress of timing retard at 4, 5, and 6K RPM. See how it feels. Use as little timing retard as possible, but that still eliminates any traces of pinging. Dyno tuning of the ignition is usually not very accurate, becuase the load on the car is much greater when on the street. So on the dyno, you may not hear pinging, but on the street you will. So really, in my opinion, timing needs to be dialed in on the street.

Play around with and let us know how it works.

 

Oh, one more thing.

The Profec can only disply and record three channels of data. I am not sure if the eManage support tool will let you datalog more channels via laptop. I havent tried that yet.

 

I forgot about the 3 channel limit. I guess RPM, A/F and FP would be most important when dialing it in.

Boost peaked today at 7.1psi on the street so I'm back down to 20%/10/4 which seems to keep max at 6.5psi. How much will ambient temp affect this? It was humid and hot as hell when we did the dyno, and it was much cooler today.

Can anyone post what their boost settings are? I assume auto mode displays the settings after they are learned.

-D

 

Cooler air has more density....so more air in the cylinder chamber when it fires= more power. But.... more air = leaner condition and more chance of detonation.

 

Derek, from my experience, the auto mode works...but depending on ambient conditions, and the gear you are in...it tends to spike for a split second before stabalizing. In 1st gear on my car..its nuts...I have seen spikes to 7.1psi, only to immediately stabalize at 6psi. Overall, I kinda like how it works....it responds so quickly, that the spikes only last a split second...and usually only in 1st gear. 2nd-6th gear arent spiking.

 

That is what I'm seeing. I feel better knowing it's not just me.

I'm down to 10%/10/3.8 until I can try the auto-learn again. Maybe a 5th gear pull will work since it has more room.

The ZT2 should be in this week so I can get a handle on A/F while I'm on the street.

-D