Greddy Ignition Timing Harness DONE! Pics
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From: Marietta, GA
OK, last night, spent a couple hours installing the Greddy eManage ignition timing harness. Most of the work involved cutting, splicing, and soldering the diodes into the harness. The actually installation of the harness to the ECU was actually quite easy. The Greddy RPM adaptor is already attached to the wires you'll need to tap....slighty upstream from where they are tapped for the RPM Adaptor.
I followed ETX's instructions, and everything worked as planned. Thanks!!
The ignition timing harness was about $30, and the diodes were $5 at electronics store.
Using the Profec e-01, or your laptop if you have the Greddy Support tool, you can retard timing in several different ways. The first method is MAF (airflow) vs. RPM. This is the way I currently have it setup. For the timebeing, I have dialed in a progressive amount of retard from 2 degrees all the way to 8 degress from 3Krpm to 6500rpm. This is for starters until I can do some good testing. On the Profec, you can graph the retard amount, and view it in real time...neat.
The second method of retarding is to use the optional pressure sensor harness ($25). This cable plugs into the hub of the Profec, and simply plugs into the eManage. It will transmit the MAP signal from your Profec's sensor to the eManage, so you can program pressure vs. RPM. I will probably run this method of retarding in the future. I left the cable at my mechanics shop...so I couldnt plug it in last night.
So initial testing is complete, and I havent run into any problems yet. I am taking a rather long drive to Laguna Beach today, so I will really put it to the test. Some now, I think two people on the boards...ETX and myself are testing out this method. I'll advise if I blow something up.
Here are some pics of the harness, the diodes, etc.....
http://www.savepic.com/pf.php?fid=894
I followed ETX's instructions, and everything worked as planned. Thanks!!
The ignition timing harness was about $30, and the diodes were $5 at electronics store.
Using the Profec e-01, or your laptop if you have the Greddy Support tool, you can retard timing in several different ways. The first method is MAF (airflow) vs. RPM. This is the way I currently have it setup. For the timebeing, I have dialed in a progressive amount of retard from 2 degrees all the way to 8 degress from 3Krpm to 6500rpm. This is for starters until I can do some good testing. On the Profec, you can graph the retard amount, and view it in real time...neat.

The second method of retarding is to use the optional pressure sensor harness ($25). This cable plugs into the hub of the Profec, and simply plugs into the eManage. It will transmit the MAP signal from your Profec's sensor to the eManage, so you can program pressure vs. RPM. I will probably run this method of retarding in the future. I left the cable at my mechanics shop...so I couldnt plug it in last night.
So initial testing is complete, and I havent run into any problems yet. I am taking a rather long drive to Laguna Beach today, so I will really put it to the test. Some now, I think two people on the boards...ETX and myself are testing out this method. I'll advise if I blow something up.

Here are some pics of the harness, the diodes, etc.....
http://www.savepic.com/pf.php?fid=894
This sounds very promising. So the diods will make it so it doesn't fry the coil packs right? I'm not totally sure what the problem is and how to fix it I guess. Once you get it all tested out, maybe you or someone could post a recomended setup for us new comers. Like what parts to buy, how to hook it up, everything we'll need. One of the things that holding me back, is not know what all I need and such.
I took my friends 550 hp Cobra out over the weekend, and now I'm itching for more power out of the Z. Depending on how this method works, it might be the desiding factor for me.
I took my friends 550 hp Cobra out over the weekend, and now I'm itching for more power out of the Z. Depending on how this method works, it might be the desiding factor for me.
Good work GQ! I'm glad everything worked out for you.
I've been driving my Z 60 miles round trip 5 days a week to work and back, so far so good. It's been about three or four weeks since I installed the harness.
I have an extra ignition harness if anyone needs it. $35 w/ overnight fedex shipping.
I've been driving my Z 60 miles round trip 5 days a week to work and back, so far so good. It's been about three or four weeks since I installed the harness.
I have an extra ignition harness if anyone needs it. $35 w/ overnight fedex shipping.
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Do a search for ETX's step-by step on how to install the harness and diodes. I am on dial-up in a hotel...so I dont have the patience to locate it myself.
Yes, the diodes keep eccess current from reaching the coils in between fires. Apparetly, without the diodes, a constant curret is on the coils, which caused them to overheat or fry in very short order. Greddy is testing the diode setup and will be selling a new harness over the summer. I was talking to Kenji, and they are waiting for a special shipment of diodes from Japan. I was like...hugh? Try Marvac Electronics or Radio shack....they are like .50/a piece.
He said the diodes from Japan added 25 HP in their testing...KIDDING....he didnt really say that. 
Also, if anyone is not into splicing in their diodes, Ultimate Racing sells are harness all set to go for $70. Just plug into eManage, and splice in to the ignition ECU wires.
Slay2K....get that Walbro 255 before you attempt to boost more than 6psi....you will start running lean after that at higher RPM's.
Testing update: I just drove 60 miles to Laguna beach in freakn 100degree weather. No problems.
350Now..I have your harness...lets get that puppy installed soon so we can have three real world road tests of the harness running concurrently.
Yes, the diodes keep eccess current from reaching the coils in between fires. Apparetly, without the diodes, a constant curret is on the coils, which caused them to overheat or fry in very short order. Greddy is testing the diode setup and will be selling a new harness over the summer. I was talking to Kenji, and they are waiting for a special shipment of diodes from Japan. I was like...hugh? Try Marvac Electronics or Radio shack....they are like .50/a piece.
He said the diodes from Japan added 25 HP in their testing...KIDDING....he didnt really say that. 
Also, if anyone is not into splicing in their diodes, Ultimate Racing sells are harness all set to go for $70. Just plug into eManage, and splice in to the ignition ECU wires.
Slay2K....get that Walbro 255 before you attempt to boost more than 6psi....you will start running lean after that at higher RPM's.
Testing update: I just drove 60 miles to Laguna beach in freakn 100degree weather. No problems.
350Now..I have your harness...lets get that puppy installed soon so we can have three real world road tests of the harness running concurrently.
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haha.. I don't see it as pressure, I see it more as an evolution. Also it's long overdue. Need more boost getting used to what I have now. It's fun now but imagine more boost.. muwahahaha
Last edited by 350Now; May 4, 2004 at 07:30 PM.
Originally posted by gq_626
Do a search for ETX's step-by step on how to install the harness and diodes. I am on dial-up in a hotel...so I dont have the patience to locate it myself.
Yes, the diodes keep eccess current from reaching the coils in between fires. Apparetly, without the diodes, a constant curret is on the coils, which caused them to overheat or fry in very short order. Greddy is testing the diode setup and will be selling a new harness over the summer. I was talking to Kenji, and they are waiting for a special shipment of diodes from Japan. I was like...hugh? Try Marvac Electronics or Radio shack....they are like .50/a piece.
He said the diodes from Japan added 25 HP in their testing...KIDDING....he didnt really say that. 
Also, if anyone is not into splicing in their diodes, Ultimate Racing sells are harness all set to go for $70. Just plug into eManage, and splice in to the ignition ECU wires.
Slay2K....get that Walbro 255 before you attempt to boost more than 6psi....you will start running lean after that at higher RPM's.
Testing update: I just drove 60 miles to Laguna beach in freakn 100degree weather. No problems.
350Now..I have your harness...lets get that puppy installed soon so we can have three real world road tests of the harness running concurrently.
Do a search for ETX's step-by step on how to install the harness and diodes. I am on dial-up in a hotel...so I dont have the patience to locate it myself.
Yes, the diodes keep eccess current from reaching the coils in between fires. Apparetly, without the diodes, a constant curret is on the coils, which caused them to overheat or fry in very short order. Greddy is testing the diode setup and will be selling a new harness over the summer. I was talking to Kenji, and they are waiting for a special shipment of diodes from Japan. I was like...hugh? Try Marvac Electronics or Radio shack....they are like .50/a piece.
He said the diodes from Japan added 25 HP in their testing...KIDDING....he didnt really say that. 
Also, if anyone is not into splicing in their diodes, Ultimate Racing sells are harness all set to go for $70. Just plug into eManage, and splice in to the ignition ECU wires.
Slay2K....get that Walbro 255 before you attempt to boost more than 6psi....you will start running lean after that at higher RPM's.
Testing update: I just drove 60 miles to Laguna beach in freakn 100degree weather. No problems.
350Now..I have your harness...lets get that puppy installed soon so we can have three real world road tests of the harness running concurrently.
Hey did you take MERCEDES on that RODIE? If you did bring me the sheets minus your DNA
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Originally posted by basam350z
GQ. Have you guys solved the "Limp Mode" problems when boosting to 8psi?
GQ. Have you guys solved the "Limp Mode" problems when boosting to 8psi?
That said, tuning becomes infinately more challenging once you max out the MAF, becuase you only have one axis of data to plot your fuel......RPM....that's it. The car...and you...have no idea how much air is going into the engine.
The way around this...is to use a MAP sensor to map your fuel based on pressure vs. RPM. You can do this on the eManage if you buy the $25 pressure sensor harness...assuming you have the Profec which already includes the MAP sensor. I havent played with this much yet, since I am still boosting normal levels. But that would be the next step........the challenge is it would require me to completly create brand new MAP/RPM fuel enrichment table from scratch, instead of just modifying the stock Greddy MAF/RPM fuel map. MAP based fueling is really the way to go with higher boost conditions. It avoids the measurement and reliable issues of a MAF.
I am only running 5.5 psi. I need to tune the fuel map before I run any more boost. I want to get the TS flash before I tune the emanage fuel add map, But I don't have that kind of money to spend right now.
Here is the document on how to install the Ignition Harness.
http://www.etherealdesign.com/pics/3...ioninstall.pdf
The harness is have for sale is just a regular harness, no diodes. I could solder in the diodes for you but my buddy stole my weller. I actually have a profec e-01, e-manage, and the timing harness for sale. We were going to turbo my buddies Sentra SpecV and he wimped out.
Here is the document on how to install the Ignition Harness.
http://www.etherealdesign.com/pics/3...ioninstall.pdf
The harness is have for sale is just a regular harness, no diodes. I could solder in the diodes for you but my buddy stole my weller. I actually have a profec e-01, e-manage, and the timing harness for sale. We were going to turbo my buddies Sentra SpecV and he wimped out.
I'm in the process of doing the same, along with Derek (live in the same town)
Wanted to point out something to you GG, that Derek noticed you posted about your RPM's being off
Mine was off to, but after talking to Dan @ Godspeed, he figured out it maters which order the yellow wires, are wired.
I didn't think this was the case, because the yellow wires are not marked, but it does matter, as I rewired it yesterday, and my RPM's are reading right now on my e-01
Starting with the yellow wire on the end, is #1
Wanted to point out something to you GG, that Derek noticed you posted about your RPM's being off
Mine was off to, but after talking to Dan @ Godspeed, he figured out it maters which order the yellow wires, are wired.
I didn't think this was the case, because the yellow wires are not marked, but it does matter, as I rewired it yesterday, and my RPM's are reading right now on my e-01
Starting with the yellow wire on the end, is #1
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ACP...that is very interesting. Greddy said the order doesnt matter, and dont make an distinctions betweent he yellow wires. Maybe Cheston can chime in with that rational for that. He is our resident electical engineer.
In theory, it should not matter, since the adaptor is taking ANY 6 ingnition pulses and combined them into one. So not sure how the wiring order would make a difference.
Wiring the timing harness is the same way. The order of the ouput wires doesnt matter at all.
Maybe on this guy's orginal install, he had some bad connectors, or a better ground or something...I need to do more research.
In theory, it should not matter, since the adaptor is taking ANY 6 ingnition pulses and combined them into one. So not sure how the wiring order would make a difference.
Wiring the timing harness is the same way. The order of the ouput wires doesnt matter at all.
Maybe on this guy's orginal install, he had some bad connectors, or a better ground or something...I need to do more research.
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The harness will work, but it has a tendency to overheat and blow out coils without diodes installed. Greddy used the harness without diodes and blew the coils during a long rush hour commute.
Consider the diodes manditory when using the harness. And they are less than $5 in parts...the cost is immaterial.
Consider the diodes manditory when using the harness. And they are less than $5 in parts...the cost is immaterial.
Hey fernandito7, sorry about that. I'll send you a PM right now.
I also have a brand new profec e-01, emanage, greddy type-s and a Garret T-25 turbo for sale if anyone needs any of those items. I am actually thinking about installing the type S on my Z.
I also have a brand new profec e-01, emanage, greddy type-s and a Garret T-25 turbo for sale if anyone needs any of those items. I am actually thinking about installing the type S on my Z.
Originally posted by ACP
I'm in the process of doing the same, along with Derek (live in the same town)
Wanted to point out something to you GG, that Derek noticed you posted about your RPM's being off
Mine was off to, but after talking to Dan @ Godspeed, he figured out it maters which order the yellow wires, are wired.
I didn't think this was the case, because the yellow wires are not marked, but it does matter, as I rewired it yesterday, and my RPM's are reading right now on my e-01
Starting with the yellow wire on the end, is #1
I'm in the process of doing the same, along with Derek (live in the same town)
Wanted to point out something to you GG, that Derek noticed you posted about your RPM's being off
Mine was off to, but after talking to Dan @ Godspeed, he figured out it maters which order the yellow wires, are wired.
I didn't think this was the case, because the yellow wires are not marked, but it does matter, as I rewired it yesterday, and my RPM's are reading right now on my e-01
Starting with the yellow wire on the end, is #1
GQ:
Also, going back to something you posted earlier, my tuner is going to tap into the RPM wire of the adapter to send signal to my turbo timer. I let him know about potential signal problems and he is going to keep an eye on it. I'll know this afternoon if it affects the RPM reading on the E-01.
I'm having problems with the timing harness. Apparently there is a run on 1N5400 diodes, since I've been to 4 out of the 5 Radio Shacks in the area and managed to collect only 4 of the 6. I'll try the 5th store today. (Having items in stock? That's a novel idea!)
-D


