Long time viewer first time poster.

I brought my G to Grubbs two days ago to do a Vortech SC install and a Borla Exhaust.

They called me today and said they just got approval from Vortech to do installs w/ a 9 lb pully. I told them to go ahead and do it. Apparently, I should get about 10.5 lbs of boost at the top end because we are increasing the red line to 7100 rpms.

With a couple of hours of tuning, Grubbs expects to get me to around 360 rwhp.

Questions:
1. How safe do you think this is on an otherwise stock car.
2. Do you think these numbers make sense.
3. What problems, if any, do you think I will run into regarding engine durability, extra maintenance, or other parts not designed to hold up to this kind of power.
4. Do you see any major issues with increasing the red line.

 

Are u driving a G35 sedan or coupe?

1) Not safe unless you retard the timming further as you go with higher boost and make sure you are using 1 or 2 step colder copper spark plugs and not the stock platinum plugs.

2) Seems kinda low. Maybe they are being conservative on their estimate. If you are driving a coupe, id guess u would more likely be around 420 rwhp with alot of timming being pulled at 10.5lbs of boost.

3) Keeping up with oil changes, coolant levels, fresh spark plugs ever 10k- 15k miles depending on how rich your running is important. Inspect the SC belts every time you drive the first few days. I am a little worried with the summer heat so id not reccomend going WOT during the day. Im going to try a product called Water Wetter and water in place of 1/2 the coolant in the radiator.

4) Advancing the redline is ok if you dont hit the new higher and more dangerous fuel cut off.

 

I'm skurred
Be careful, and good luck!!

 

Enron Exec
I have an AT 04 Coupe with 9K, all the bells and whistles except nav.

I know they are making changes to the timing, but exactly what they are changing I do not know. Everytime I spoke with the guys at Grubbs I emphasised that I wanted safe and reliable
power.

When they called me yesterday about the 9 lb pully, they also said they highly recommended changing the plugs to 1 degree lower copper. I said, "your the experts. I am not going to spend all this cash and cut a little corner at the end. DO IT."

It baffels me though that a plug that is 1 degree cooler really makes any difference. From my perspective, we are dealing with something that is having an explosive gas ignited in a pressurized chamber. This alone is hundreds of degrees. How can 1 degree make any real difference? But hey, I am not the expert.

You may be right about their estimates, it also may be because I keep emphasising that I want reliability. Of course the 10.5 boost level will only be at the very top end.

I too am concerned about the Summer heat here in Houston. I have heard about the Water Wetter. Please keep me informed about how this product works for you. Any other suggestions to improve the systems ability to cool?

Regarding the new red line, as it was explained to me, the limit will no longer be controled like the stock red line ( I believe that is a starter kill in the programming??) If I remember correctly they said the new redline will actually be a byproduct of the fuel cut off (I'm not too sure about this). None the less, we did discuss the leaning out issue, and I was assured that this was almost impossible. I hope I am not being naive in believing all this. I made the trip to Grubbs because I have never heard only GREAT things about them, and the shop that I spoke to in Houston, said they had never worked on a G or installed a Vortech. Natually, I did not want to be their test bed.

 

On degree is not actually one degree colder. They usually say one step colder. This refers to the length of the electrode which will help the plug dissipate heat more quickly. If you put in plugs that don't dissipate heat properly they will melt!

 

Alininger2001

That makes a lot more sense. Does a cooler plug change any of ther performance characteristics of the engine?

 

The colder plug might reduce power a little bit, so don't even notice a difference. The help reduce timing I thing.

 

The colder plugs dont reduce HP. As mentioned, they have less porceline (sp) around the electrode, so there are less places for heat to hide and pre-ignite your fuel. Your HP levels will be identical. Now, retarding timing DOES reduce HP, but it is more than offset with increased boost pressure.

The only drawbacks...and they are very minor....

1) Slightly harder starting. I mean..like in instead of a 1sec turn before firing, you might have to crank for 2 secs.

2) Colder plugs tend to foul up faster, since they run cooler, and dont burn off unburned fuel and combustion residue as fast.

That being said, definately go at least 2 steps colder...personally, I will go 3 steps colder on my next plug change. Seems like this ar is always on the verge of detonation...depending on weather, fuel , etc....it will give you a slightly larger margin for error.

Regarding your oringinal question, as long as your tuner does a fuel dyno tune with Wideband to insure you arent running lean at redline...you should be fine. Sounds like an interesting setup. I assume with the Vortech AUX fuel pump and reg, youi'll have sufficient fuel pressure at higher RPM...right? Becuase the stock FP is totally inadequate at that level. I would guess you'll be close to 400whp..maybe more at 10.5psi. Good luck!!

 

Thanks for all the feedback!

Should I ask Grubbs to install 2 or 3 degree colder plugs. I want reliability!

I have been told by Grubbs that there are NO issues with fuel enrichment at this level of boost. I assume this is true.

As great as 400rwhp sounds, I don't think I am ready for this. It seems to me I will have MAJOR traction issues and other reliability issues as well. Please advise if you do not think this is the case.
Specifically:
1. Transmission issues
2. rear end issues
3. Traction issues (I have stock tires)

Finally,

What else can I do to increase my cooling abilities. Different radiator? Different oil (synthetic)? other?

 

Houston G35 PM me if you like. I was the guy being installed just before you last week at Grubbs. Here is the post I placed on g35driver.com

===========
After months of planning and over 1 week in the shop the install is finally done.
============================
Car: 2003 - G35 AT Coupe - Fully Loaded
============================
Dyno at VSV Performance
352.58 RWHp
289.87 Torque
Air/Fuel: 11.65
Outside Temp: HOT 96.16 F
============================
Install Shop:
Grubbs Infiniti – Dallas
Many thanks to John in Service
============================
Modifications:
Vortech SC
9 LB Pulley – w/ 3 Year warrantee *
Crawford Plenum
Borla Dual
NGK copper plugs
Technosquare Custom ECU program
Auto Meter - Boost & Air Fuel Gauge
Grounding kit
Skyline badges
============================
Estimated Cost for all modification: $ 9,500.00 +/-
============================
* For all the current users with Vortech SC systems that are concerned about upgrading the pulley system to get more PSI, I have some good news. John at Grubbs Infiniti called and spoke with the President of Vortech and was instructed how it increase the SC from 8 PSI to 9 PSI and not void the 3 year warrantee. To put this into numbers everyone can relate to, I gained 19 RWHp with the pulley change and only paid $250 for the parts and labor to install the new components.
============================
As far as performance I could not be happier, the system runs like a scolded ape. During hard acceleration the SC kicks in about 1900rpm’s and pulls until my redline 7200rpm (thanks Technosquare). During normal driving conditions it performs like a champ, almost as if the SC is not installed. About the only telling sign other drivers on the road notice is the SC’s occasional whistle.
============================
Many thanks to the others on this forum who pioneered/tested the products so that people like myself could benefit from it.

 

*PUI*

That seems a little low for 9 PSI

 

---------------------
Just keeping it turned down for the time being. Also note the temperature during testing.

 

*PUI*

Yeah I saw that, but what's up with the torque??

 

I was thinking the same thing....I got more than that [312] with the 8lb

 

Houston, ask for two "steps" colder...or three "steps" colder. Not degrees....that's not the write terminology. Two steps colder is very common, but three steps colder might be harder to find in stock....might have to special order.

I dont think you'll have any issues with engine reliabilty or transmission reliability at 10psi or so. Tuning is EVERYTHING....if done correctly, and pinging as eliminated, these motors can easily produce reliable HP beyond 400.....

Make sure you drive with your windows down and radio off...unti you are certain there is no pinging...in every gear..at every RPM. Most people forget this part....it's important to road test after dyno...and LISTEN.....

Good luck! I gotta catch a plane back to LA...Altanta Airport blows.

 

1. Are you AT Trans?
2. I did not perform the Dyno the dealership did.

I will get another done very soon and post.

 

Yes I have AT5....The dealer more than likely didnt touch a thing when it came to tuning .I believe Vortech's settings in the SS box is safe enough for a 8 or 9 lb pully .You will need to find some one to tune it on a dyno

 

Here is where my system is set at currently:



I have not changed anything as of yet. Any suggestions?

 

All though the R4 is simple to use . I dont trust my self to do it . Im leaving mine up to some one thats got 25 years at doing it .

 

GQ

Thanks for all the info. Is there any objective way of determiing pinging? I have a hard time trusting my ears with something so important.

Hraesvelg

It will be interesting to see my dyno and R4 results to compare to yours. Perhaps, my data will shead some light on whats going on with your system

booger

Can you post your dyno or give us some numbers. I am curious why your torque is so much higher. Any ideas?