joenismo

Yesterday I had a couple of problems with my e-manage. When I initialized the e-manage to richen up my map, I forgot to export it before I turned the car off. I had been driving it to check A/F. Twenty mins later when I went to start it it ran like crap, just like derik_i described in his post about strange e-manage behavior. The e-manage was flashing red/green constantly. I tried to reinitialize the e-manage and then export the saved maps, which would work until I turned the key to the off position and then back on. I would then get the red/green flashing on the e-manage again. After reviewing the previous post derik_i made I initialized the e-manage and the e-01 and then reentered all the map values, parameters, and car setup. This finally resolved the red/green flashing on the e-manage. I had a solid green light every time. Problem fixed right, well no. Ever since I first reintialized the e-manage the car wouldn't start, I thought this might be since the car was running so badly that I may have fouled the plugs but that wasn't it. I checked for spark and have none. I have rechecked all of my wiring, bypassed the ignition harness(which has the diodes) checked for voltage at the coil packs(no voltage), reset the ecu, checked voltage at the ecu to the coil packs(no voltage), took the car to the Nissan dealership to use the consult on it to check everything, consult pulled no codes. I am in the process to check the wavelength of the crank trigger sensor and the cam sensors to determine if they are sending signal. Sorry about the long post, any ideas, why don't I have spark???

joenismo

Problem solved after another three hours, 5 of the 6 coil packs are burned up. I discovered that the ECU has a safety reaction of shutting down each quad driver which sends signal to each coil pack if there is a problem with the coil pack. That is why there was no voltage coming out of the ecu for 5 of the 6 wires to the coils. I did have the diodes installed, they can only be installed one way or else the car would not have run in the first place, since power can only go in one direction with the diodes in place. Can anyone else shed anymore light on this subject? If everything was done correctly everyone with the ignition harness and diodes installed should still be aware.

Jason@Performance

iTrader: (11)

gladto hear you got that figured out! I was thinking about it when I left the office... was going to PM you about it...

SammyJL

Damn coil packs. I've blown 4 of them so far and it's always the same two cylinders. It's really a pain because once they blow, then you are stranded wherever you are. Had to be towed twice so far.

joenismo

How many pounds of boost are you running? are you retarding the timing? if so how much? I just totally removed the ignition harness and have decided to run 6.9 pounds of boost with no ignition retard. I did install the walbro 255 and just changed the parameters from 300 to 400; instead of 300 to 440. I have an A/F of 11.2 untill redline. Has anyone else burned up their coil packs. This has cost me an additional $400 plus all the time and hassle. I wouldn't recommend the ignition harness to anyone! even with diodes.

noahbuddy

well, shortly after installing my J&S safeguard I had the #6 coil go bad. Melted it completely. My issue was a wiring problem we think. No problems since then.

etx

I've been using the ignition harness for months (~3500 miles) and have not had any issues, yet.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Joe, I am sorry to hear about this.

As I was reading your first post, I was certain it was dead coil packs.....and you were right too!!

Here is the problem. Even with the diodes, it minimizes the excess current going to the coils. This is fine for idling and driving.

The problem, is that if you leave the key on the on position without the car running, you'll fry your coils...even with the diodes.

So you MUST NEVER leave your car in the on position not running for more than 10 seconds. On position puts a constant high level of voltage on the coils...this is bad.
Joe,
can I safely assume that you had it in the on position for more than that during your testing with the Profec. Most people do this, since they dont want to idle the car for long times while setting the Profec.

Just like ETX, I have driven my car in 100degree weather, sick LA traffic, and the like, for over 2500miles with no issues.

Just avoid key-on-but-not-running, and I think we are safe. Also, be very cautious with turbo timers, since if you, for some reason, turn the key to on...like to roll up your windows, and then turn the key to off, your Turbo Timer will activate, so you'll think you turned off your ignition, but in reality, your car is in the deadly key-on-car-off position for whatever the duration of the timer countdown is! Be careful!

SammyJL

I am only running 6Lbs of boost right now and I have a custom tuned e-manage which includes timing retard but I don't know how much. My e-manage is locked down by the tuner so I can't see the values.

My coils were burning out while I was driving. It had nothing to do with leaving the key in the "on" position. I had been warned about that from the installer so I have made sure that I never leave the key "on", which really sucks I might add, because sometimes I like to listen to my system without the car running.

joenismo

Once I lost all of the values I had typed in the car barely ran, so I turned it off to check things, tried to start it again and it wouldn't start. So I had no choice, I had to re-enter all of the values again to solve the red/green flashing problem, I had to have the key on to do that. Was I supposed to cut the ignition harness out just to re-enter the values so the car would run again? It was soldered in and the car wouldn't start. You see my problem.

I installed the new coil packs today and finally have everything done. It sure is fast. I do have a couple issues, mostly with my Labree test pipes. They are 2.5 inches in diameter with resonators that supposedly speed up the exhaust airflow. I think they are working too well because I can't get my A/F under 12.5 at WOT. And with the boost off on the profec, I still get up to 6.5-6.9 because of the lack of backpressure to make the springs in the wastegates work properly. I have already installed a walbro 255, used gq's fuel map from his support tool post, and changed the parameters from 300-420. I am still going a little lean on the top end though.

SammyJL

You just have to unplug the ignition harness and re-enter the values into the profec with the ignition in the on position. When you are done then you plug the harness back in and then start your car. Greddy even suggests to do this in their instruction manual when initializing the emanage.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Sammy, did your coils burn while driving, and with the diodes installed? That has not happened to any of us yet..after thousands of combined miles..

And dont worry, like I mentioned, you can still listen to the radio and other gadgets by keeping the keep in the accessory position. Just keep it out of the "on" position with all your dashboard warning lights and stuff still on.


and I agree...definatley unplug the ignition harness from the eManage when dialing in the Profec with the key in the "on" position

Joe...sorry I didnt mention this sooner...

12SecZ

Why would you run w/o any ignition retard?

mjedens

iTrader: (3)

Should I be making changes to my maps (emanage) while off line (ignition off) and then turn the ignition on to "export"? I've never tried it but can you import or export while the car is running (idle)?

I guess I've been lucky because I have played with the emanage for long periods of time with the ignition on. Could someone explain the 300 to 400 parameters? Are we talking about the section where you input the original injector size (280) and then the new size (440)? Playing with these numbers will do what for us?

Thanks

derek_i

If your eManage/E-01 is hooked up according to the instructions, it will only be on in the ON position, not ACC. I don't see why you couldn't change this though.

It should adjust your A/F ratios evenly across the board. The eManage adds fuel based on the injector size ratio.

-D

SammyJL

gq, I found out the other day, through my own checking, that the installer didn't include the diodes in the wiring even though they assured me that they were there. I have since then installed the diodes myself and have been running for 5 days now without a hitch, so it looks like I found out why they were blowing. I should have checked it earlier when the first two blew. You know the old saying "If you want something done right .........". Lesson learned.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

You can upload and download maps to/from the Profec with the car running..no problem there.

Not sure if the Profec will work if the eManage is off....if it doesn't, then an ACC rewire wont solve the issue.

12Sec...we are talking about setting the Profec..not actually driving the car. Some people are programming the Profec/eManage with the car in the on position instead of running. This was causing coil issues even with dioides. So what I am saying is that if you must use the Profec with the car off, then just unplug the timing harness fro the eManage as a precaution. Personally, I just leave the car running while making changes.

Lastly, the injector scaling in the "Parameters" screen will richen or lean out the entire map. It's used to make the car idle with the bigger injectors. It is the only way the eManage can actually reduce fuel...which is necessary with larger injectors at idle and cruise. It does this by making a single MAF adjustment across the entire map. Then the eManage adds IPW as airflow and RPM increase.

For instance, the stock injectors are 280..so leave that alone. At 440, you should idle cleanly. If you want to richen everything up slightly, then change the value to like 420 or lower....if you need to lean up the entire map, increase it to 460 or whatever.

Careful with leaning it out...since the bigger the MAF manipulation, the more your timing gets advanced...not good with F/I. You can observe the MAF adjustment by looking at AIRFLOW INPUT and AIRFLOW OUTPUT on your display screen.