fwiw, my tuner shoots for 11.25 in the heat of florida's summers (that last typically 9 mos)....

i also agree the rise in a/f is very dangerous........

 

It sounds like Lightspeed must have moved. Before they didn't even have a real lift. It was one of those floor deals and they only had one little bay.

12.7 without timing taken out is too high IMO. My last dyno was 380rwhp, AF was 12.7 and I had 19 degrees taken out. It seems like our cars are really picky about A/F and in order to be safe the correct timing needs to be pulled. Granted it makes the car a little slower but safer is better to me.

 

19 degrees taken out?? Do you mean 19 degrees total advance?

--Steve

 

Must be...becuase 19 degrees taking out near redline equals zero ignition advance. Target is about 14-16 degrees total advance at redline....and this is on the safe side.

You really should run the car on an ODBII logger/scanner to see what the ECU is spitting out in your area. It varies on fuel quality, ambient temp, etc. In So Cal on crappy 91 octane, at WOT I was showing about 20-23 degrees of total ignition advance near redline....it was actually pretty steady at WOT from about 4000rpm to 6500rpm. So now I am pulling about 6-7 degrees of advance near redline, for a net total ignition advance of roughly 14-16 degrees.

At cruise, you'll likely show about 40-45 degrees of ignition advance...this is normal. As soon as your go WOT, the ignition drops like a rock to the low 20's.

 

I could be wrong but I believe it is 19 degrees total advance at redline. It was described to me as being on the extreme safe side.

 

Yes we ordering the fuel pump upgrade this week for better A/F ratios with higher HP.

Same plugs.

But no I am not running IC spray or NOS... it was just simply to see how cold the nitrous spray would get the car and the outcome... it gave quite a bit of HP but at a cost

I will go by the shop tomorrow to get the 377 print out with the proper A/F ratio

 

400whp is pretty awesome for a Z on 6 psi. Does your tuner have some type of knock sensor when he or she is tuning. I am pretty sure with those cylinder pressures you are getting small knock envents with max ignition advance that's the last thing you want to happen.

How consistent was the car at that power level? How many pulls did the tuner do at 400whp?

Usually by the time you hear a detonation event it's way to late it could have already damaged your rings or worse. When tuning a vehicle I like to make power by boost and not by timing. Timing causes cylinder pressure spikes that hurt internals in a Turbocharged engines. When you make power with boost you have a more even distribution of cylinder pressures.

The leaning out up top on your dyno chart looks like what happens when you are running out of injector.

 

the only reason we got so lean at then end of the run and it was only the last run we got 395 was because we injected more fuel that required. it was lean at then end because the stock fuel pump cannot pump enough. An upgrade in the fuel pump will definately fix the turn to the lean side at the end of each gear.. however the IC spray and non-moving air did have a big effect on the A/F ratio.

 

My car had detonation at 13.1

My E-01 is now set to warn at A/F of 12.0 or higher under boost.

-D

 

ZainT,

I just wanted to let you know I went to lightspeed today for a couple dyno runs and was very impressed with the shop. They have come a long way in the past 6 years and were very proud of your car.

 

TY! Finally some actual appreciation for the work I have done :P I understand it was running lean towards then end, but that was at certain situations, so please try to just congratulate me like Whosdady just did! The car has and will be running fine, that is until I do more work I am currently having test pipes made which should get me to 420ish still on stock boost (6psi). Has anyone heard of what HP the stock internals can hold..in rwhp and HP at the crank. Just wondering when I should start making plans to redo the internals... I think it is getting about that time!

Also whosdady, did you have to get a fuel pump for the 7-8psi? Since we advanced the fuel injection a little I cannot push up to 7psi because the stock fuel pump will not handle all that fuel. Also I will be at the Nopi car show this weekend with Lightspeed, you should come by and finally chat with me person to person.. would love to see your car and your setup!

 

I will be at Nopi but without my car. It is down in Nashville right now having some more goodies installed. I will definitely look for you guys at Nopi.

I upgraded to the Walbro 255 pump and added an aeromotive adjustable fuel ragulator when I went from 7 to 10 psi. On the dyno the other day I was only hitting 7.5 psi and was not sure why. I had some crazy spikes. One hit 467rwtq as I'm sure lightspeed will tell you about

 

I forgot to mention about what the motor can handle....

The crank will be fine, the rods go at around 440 to 450rwhp. They are considered the weakest link. The pistons start to melt/bust when the AF is between 13.5 to 14 when detonation takes place with stock timing. You should adjust yours pretty soon...