Feeler: Group Buy on Forged Internals
Originally posted by gq_626
The only other thing I plan on doing is installing high strength ARP head and main studs. SGP racing sells them for $399 Maybe we could do another group buy on them??
The only other thing I plan on doing is installing high strength ARP head and main studs. SGP racing sells them for $399 Maybe we could do another group buy on them??
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Kyle...from SPG racing....call on Kyle....please
Maybe Kyle can setup a direct buy program for us.
Lets wrap up the piston/rod group buy first...then we can focus our efforts on the other parts.
Maybe Kyle can setup a direct buy program for us.
Lets wrap up the piston/rod group buy first...then we can focus our efforts on the other parts.
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They offer a ceramic heat coating material on the piston for about $120 for the set. I am not convinced of their true benefit, I didnt offer it as an option. The benifits are likely very marginal, and will add too much complexity to the group buy.
Lower compression and added strength is the real benefit of doing this deal.
Lower compression and added strength is the real benefit of doing this deal.
I have gone the forged route on three (Ford) vehicles.
Words of advice:
The quality and experience of the machinist that you choose will determine the success of your result. Make absolutely sure your machinist is top-notch.
If you get your blocks bored, remember that the bores must be centered to the crank and a perfect 90 degrees from the deck. A good machinist knows how to do this. Make sure yours does.
Of course the bores must be perfectly round and the same size all the way down. They often wear oval or more at the top of the block (where the rings ride).
Your rods, pistons, pins, and rings must weigh exactly the same, otherwise your engine will be out of balance and shake itself apart.
Your bore quality and hone or cross-hatch pattern is different for different pistons and even different rings. Your machinist should be able to cite examples and certainly know what is best for your combination.
Since the piston to cylinder wall clearances are greater for engines with forged pistons, and because of higher presures from SC and TT's, your engine will not last as long. I have heard folks say that this isn't always true, but I would ask them how many miles they got before the motor burned 1 quart every 1000 miles....my bet is 80,000 - 90,000 miles.
Thinning the cylinder walls by boring out the cylinders causes your engine to run hotter.
There are many different types of piston rings. Learn about the different types and once you decide on what you want, make sure they are installed right-side up (if applicable).
This is not a simple bolt on mod, it is major heart surgery or even like a heart transplant. I am sure there are statistics for failures, because there are so many variables.
I am sure there are exceptions to these issues depending on the engine.
Words of advice:
The quality and experience of the machinist that you choose will determine the success of your result. Make absolutely sure your machinist is top-notch.
If you get your blocks bored, remember that the bores must be centered to the crank and a perfect 90 degrees from the deck. A good machinist knows how to do this. Make sure yours does.
Of course the bores must be perfectly round and the same size all the way down. They often wear oval or more at the top of the block (where the rings ride).
Your rods, pistons, pins, and rings must weigh exactly the same, otherwise your engine will be out of balance and shake itself apart.
Your bore quality and hone or cross-hatch pattern is different for different pistons and even different rings. Your machinist should be able to cite examples and certainly know what is best for your combination.
Since the piston to cylinder wall clearances are greater for engines with forged pistons, and because of higher presures from SC and TT's, your engine will not last as long. I have heard folks say that this isn't always true, but I would ask them how many miles they got before the motor burned 1 quart every 1000 miles....my bet is 80,000 - 90,000 miles.
Thinning the cylinder walls by boring out the cylinders causes your engine to run hotter.
There are many different types of piston rings. Learn about the different types and once you decide on what you want, make sure they are installed right-side up (if applicable).
This is not a simple bolt on mod, it is major heart surgery or even like a heart transplant. I am sure there are statistics for failures, because there are so many variables.
I am sure there are exceptions to these issues depending on the engine.
Last edited by JCat; Aug 2, 2004 at 06:31 PM.
Originally posted by jcn30127
I have gone the forged route on three (Ford) vehicles.
Words of advice:
The quality and experience of the machinist that you choose will determine the success of your result. Make absolutely sure your machinist is top-notch.
If you get your blocks bored, remember that the bores must be centered to the crank and a perfect 90 degrees from the deck. A good machinist knows how to do this. Make sure yours does.
Of course the bores must be perfectly round and the same size all the way down. They often wear oval or more at the top of the block (where the rings ride).
Your rods, pistons, pins, and rings must weigh exactly the same, otherwise your engine will be out of balance and shake itself apart.
Your bore quality and hone or cross-hatch pattern is different for different pistons and even different rings. Your machinist should be able to cite examples and certainly know what is best for your combination.
Since the piston to cylinder wall clearances are greater for engines with forged pistons, and because of higher presures from SC and TT's, your engine will not last as long. I have heard folks say that this isn't always true, but I would ask them how many miles they got before the motor burned 1 quart every 1000 miles....my bet is 80,000 - 90,000 miles.
Thinning the cylinder walls by boring out the cylinders causes your engine to run hotter.
There are many different types of piston rings. Learn about the different types and once you decide on what you want, make sure they are installed right-side up (if applicable).
This is not a simple bolt on mod, it is major heart surgery or even like a heart transplant. I am sure there are statistics for failures, because there are so many variables.
I am sure there are exceptions to these issues depending on the engine.
I have gone the forged route on three (Ford) vehicles.
Words of advice:
The quality and experience of the machinist that you choose will determine the success of your result. Make absolutely sure your machinist is top-notch.
If you get your blocks bored, remember that the bores must be centered to the crank and a perfect 90 degrees from the deck. A good machinist knows how to do this. Make sure yours does.
Of course the bores must be perfectly round and the same size all the way down. They often wear oval or more at the top of the block (where the rings ride).
Your rods, pistons, pins, and rings must weigh exactly the same, otherwise your engine will be out of balance and shake itself apart.
Your bore quality and hone or cross-hatch pattern is different for different pistons and even different rings. Your machinist should be able to cite examples and certainly know what is best for your combination.
Since the piston to cylinder wall clearances are greater for engines with forged pistons, and because of higher presures from SC and TT's, your engine will not last as long. I have heard folks say that this isn't always true, but I would ask them how many miles they got before the motor burned 1 quart every 1000 miles....my bet is 80,000 - 90,000 miles.
Thinning the cylinder walls by boring out the cylinders causes your engine to run hotter.
There are many different types of piston rings. Learn about the different types and once you decide on what you want, make sure they are installed right-side up (if applicable).
This is not a simple bolt on mod, it is major heart surgery or even like a heart transplant. I am sure there are statistics for failures, because there are so many variables.
I am sure there are exceptions to these issues depending on the engine.
.Kyle
SGP Racing
bore or not to bore
AS promised , in response to my pm to SGP (Kyle)
Thanx Kyle. I would now recommend a .02 bore to all in this group buy.
Re: overbore
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
G3po wrote on 08-02-2004 06:03 PM:
Kyle have all the +8 VQ35s that SGP built use .02 overbore?
Any retain stock bore?
Some people are concerned tha ta .02 may weaken the OEM sleeves to much.
Thanx
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
All have been .020 over and not one problem out of any of them :-)
Kyle
SGP Racing
Thanx Kyle. I would now recommend a .02 bore to all in this group buy.
Re: overbore
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
G3po wrote on 08-02-2004 06:03 PM:
Kyle have all the +8 VQ35s that SGP built use .02 overbore?
Any retain stock bore?
Some people are concerned tha ta .02 may weaken the OEM sleeves to much.
Thanx
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
All have been .020 over and not one problem out of any of them :-)
Kyle
SGP Racing
Re: bore or not to bore
OK, I'm going with the overbore, I'm going with the rods, all that is left is to decide on the CR. Whats everyone else thinking? I'm gonna run around 16-17psi of boost from my Procharger. I'm thinking 9:1. Thoughts everyone else?
Kevin
Kevin
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Re: Re: bore or not to bore
Originally posted by KPierson
OK, I'm going with the overbore, I'm going with the rods, all that is left is to decide on the CR. Whats everyone else thinking? I'm gonna run around 16-17psi of boost from my Procharger. I'm thinking 9:1. Thoughts everyone else?
Kevin
OK, I'm going with the overbore, I'm going with the rods, all that is left is to decide on the CR. Whats everyone else thinking? I'm gonna run around 16-17psi of boost from my Procharger. I'm thinking 9:1. Thoughts everyone else?
Kevin
Your rods, pistons, pins, and rings must weigh exactly the same, otherwise your engine will be out of balance and shake itself apart.
Regarding the CR..If you plan on going into the mid teens of boost with a cent SC, I think 9.0:1 -9.5:1 is a good choice. Since the boost curve is linear, you wont be bulding as much boost at lower RPM, and you'd benifit nicely by having a compression ratio in that range.
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Originally posted by gq_626
Not really. You could take your stock sleeves, and then just "pin" the deck "or semi-close it. But if you do that, might as well just sleeve and close the deck at the same time.
The only other thing I plan on doing is installing high strength ARP head and main studs. SGP racing sells them for $399 Maybe we could do another group buy on them??
Not really. You could take your stock sleeves, and then just "pin" the deck "or semi-close it. But if you do that, might as well just sleeve and close the deck at the same time.
The only other thing I plan on doing is installing high strength ARP head and main studs. SGP racing sells them for $399 Maybe we could do another group buy on them??
--wes
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wow...thanks for the info.
CHECK OUT THE GROUP BUY LINK!
https://my350z.com/forum/showthr...&threadid=85958
CHECK OUT THE GROUP BUY LINK!
https://my350z.com/forum/showthr...&threadid=85958
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From: Marietta, GA
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Any last minute takers? 10 People have paid! And several more have promised to pay over the weekend. We are looking really good here. This will probably be the only time to save hundreds of dollars on forged rods and pistons for your F/I setup.
Also note, if you just needs rods only, or pistons only, we can accomodate you too!
Also note, if you just needs rods only, or pistons only, we can accomodate you too!
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From: Houston
Originally posted by zimbo
Good show, Sharif, and thanks again for all of your leg work on this. I can't wait until you start up the heads, studs, bearings, and gaskets GB to round out the set
--Steve
Good show, Sharif, and thanks again for all of your leg work on this. I can't wait until you start up the heads, studs, bearings, and gaskets GB to round out the set
--Steve
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From: Marietta, GA
Payment Number 11 has come in! Thanks Spazpilot! Just a few more to hit our target.
Just two short days left to get your payments in!
CHECK OUT THE GROUP BUY LINK!
https://my350z.com/forum/showthr...&threadid=85958
Just two short days left to get your payments in!
CHECK OUT THE GROUP BUY LINK!
https://my350z.com/forum/showthr...&threadid=85958
