467rwhp - 451 torque - smoooooooth
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CJ Motorsports
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From: West Chicago, IL
another bit of info, you guys might think im crazy... but I have never once had the spark plugs out of this engine. They are original stock ones that came with the car.. and they now have 26,500 miles on them. I have been boosted since 18,000 miles.
Tommarow I am gonna swap out for a set of one heat range cooler to give me a little more safty margin.
-Charles
Tommarow I am gonna swap out for a set of one heat range cooler to give me a little more safty margin.
-Charles
Damn Charles....yesterday on the phone, you were like "I'll be happy if I get just get the 430hp numbers I got with the eManage"...hehe..looks like you blew those numbers away.
very nice....but why is it kinda lean until around 3500rpm....this car is buildilng so much trq at 3000rpm, that I'd try to get that area a bit richer....a bit sooner....
That's the only constructive comments I have! Sweet numbers..and a very smooth graph.
very nice....but why is it kinda lean until around 3500rpm....this car is buildilng so much trq at 3000rpm, that I'd try to get that area a bit richer....a bit sooner....
That's the only constructive comments I have! Sweet numbers..and a very smooth graph.
Thread Starter
CJ Motorsports
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: West Chicago, IL
gq: when the turbos are hitting hard like that the wideband in the tailpipe gets a somewhat lagged signal. The wideband in my car and datalogging shows a 12.5:1 A/F the second I have 1.5 psi boost.
ok cool. Now please go put that new motor in there. Even with perfect tune, something is going to snap. That is a nutty amount of power on the stock rods. I'd be concerned about damaging the block or turbos if some metal starts flying around in there.
The 18G's are good for 700whp, and a nice relatively linear power curve. If you go 20G, I imagine turbo lag will increase, and it wont be as fun to drive in the power RPM..ala Supra.
And we know what you did to those power Supra's...dont we Charles.
I'd be concerned about damaging the block or turbos if some metal starts flying around in there.The 18G's are good for 700whp, and a nice relatively linear power curve. If you go 20G, I imagine turbo lag will increase, and it wont be as fun to drive in the power RPM..ala Supra.
And we know what you did to those power Supra's...dont we Charles.
Hey turbo-max....ya wanna chip in when he destorys $2000 worth of turbos, and his block? Phunk...are you feeling especially charitable these days?
One other point: It's really not important how much power a motor will produce before it breaks. Hitting a dyno number is one thing...but longevity is another. For instance, I imagine someone could rattle off a 500whp stock block dyno run, but that doen't mean it's safe for the street and everyday use.
Phunk...are you feeling especially charitable these days? One other point: It's really not important how much power a motor will produce before it breaks. Hitting a dyno number is one thing...but longevity is another. For instance, I imagine someone could rattle off a 500whp stock block dyno run, but that doen't mean it's safe for the street and everyday use.
Last edited by Sharif@Forged; Sep 4, 2004 at 09:28 PM.
phunk:
You might know this. I heard that HKS is working on like a FCON EZ or something like that. It will be a plug and play piggyback similar to the emanage but the user will be able to self tune it with a little more options. Is this true or just rummor? Spaz
You might know this. I heard that HKS is working on like a FCON EZ or something like that. It will be a plug and play piggyback similar to the emanage but the user will be able to self tune it with a little more options. Is this true or just rummor? Spaz
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Houston, Tx
Originally posted by gq_626
Hey turbo-max....ya wanna chip in when he destorys $2000 worth of turbos, and his block? Phunk...are you feeling especially charitable these days?
One other point: It's really not important how much power a motor will produce before it breaks. Hitting a dyno number is one thing...but longevity is another. For instance, I imagine someone could rattle off a 500whp stock block dyno run, but that doen't mean it's safe for the street and everyday use.
Hey turbo-max....ya wanna chip in when he destorys $2000 worth of turbos, and his block?
Phunk...are you feeling especially charitable these days? One other point: It's really not important how much power a motor will produce before it breaks. Hitting a dyno number is one thing...but longevity is another. For instance, I imagine someone could rattle off a 500whp stock block dyno run, but that doen't mean it's safe for the street and everyday use.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: East Coast
Thats sick #'s man!!!Cant wait to see what the APS tt kit is capable of!!!Suposidly the fuel system it comes with will take you all the way to 600hp before it needs an upgrade..I know of 2 places that have maxed out the efficiency of their TT already one was Greddy and one was PE..Supposidly the APS ones are good for 800hp!!Good luck and as long as you dont detonate I see no problems at that level, APS stated that they found a WIERD timing issue within the stock ECU that they felt caused most failed engines..Its in one of their posts but they would say no more about it
BOOST ON DUDE!!!
BOOST ON DUDE!!!
Originally posted by turbo-maxima
I have seen 350z blocks way cheaper than that. Why would he mess up the turbos? He already has a built block, I thought maybe before he puts that one in he might want to test the stock block. I think the headgasket will go before anything else.
I have seen 350z blocks way cheaper than that. Why would he mess up the turbos? He already has a built block, I thought maybe before he puts that one in he might want to test the stock block. I think the headgasket will go before anything else.
$2000 is roughly the price of two turbos and and other minor pieces that break when metal goes flying through the exhuast housing. It usually shatters the turbine blades and everything else in there.
If you throw a rod or shatter a pistons, it could permanently damage the block....that would be another $1500 or so....
Awesome Charles!
Shows the stock internals can take alot more then people think, when tuned right.
I know my car is in that HP range.
Soon as it gets cooler here, I will be at they dyno as well.
Shows the stock internals can take alot more then people think, when tuned right.
I know my car is in that HP range.
Soon as it gets cooler here, I will be at they dyno as well.
MAF - ECU Servo Feedback Loop
CJM:
How did your experiment go.. Is MAF back in System?
I was thinking. there is One model of 350Z with no VDC, TCS, SLIP or Cruise.. That is the Base Model...
We need more on how the ECU uses MAF Sensor..
( By accident installing the MAF with the Arrow pointing away from the Throttle Body is how got all those strange symptoms - Slip ( sitting ) VDC Error.. ect. Very Rich - Low speed rattle. )
Cheers
How did your experiment go.. Is MAF back in System?
I was thinking. there is One model of 350Z with no VDC, TCS, SLIP or Cruise.. That is the Base Model...
We need more on how the ECU uses MAF Sensor..
( By accident installing the MAF with the Arrow pointing away from the Throttle Body is how got all those strange symptoms - Slip ( sitting ) VDC Error.. ect. Very Rich - Low speed rattle. )
Cheers
Originally posted by phunk
AmyCroft: You got me thinking. Right now my MAF is still in the car just because I havent replaced it with a piece of pipe yet. The FCON is already sending a bogus replacement MAF signal to the stock ECU so that I dont get a check engine light. Perhaps I should bypass this FCON feature and let the ECU see the true MAF voltage and perhaps then these features might work still work?????
Its hard to say really, I need to do some research on how they operate at all in this car. Its really ****ed up what happens actually I never seen anything like it. If I turn on the cruise, then activate it... the engine load goes up (As reported by independant HKS MAP sensor for the EVC) but the car is not accelerating and then a few moment later the entire engine goes THUD THUD THUD until I freak out and turn off the CC... WTF?!?!? I will figure out whats behind all this hear... I just need to figure out the entire thought procress of the CC system - as long as its part of the fly by wire it can possible remain active.... same with the TC and VDC... if these systems are so dependent on keeping the MAF sensor like you say, then maybe the MAF will just have to stay in there.... Not like I care much its not really in the way.
AmyCroft: You got me thinking. Right now my MAF is still in the car just because I havent replaced it with a piece of pipe yet. The FCON is already sending a bogus replacement MAF signal to the stock ECU so that I dont get a check engine light. Perhaps I should bypass this FCON feature and let the ECU see the true MAF voltage and perhaps then these features might work still work?????
Its hard to say really, I need to do some research on how they operate at all in this car. Its really ****ed up what happens actually I never seen anything like it. If I turn on the cruise, then activate it... the engine load goes up (As reported by independant HKS MAP sensor for the EVC) but the car is not accelerating and then a few moment later the entire engine goes THUD THUD THUD until I freak out and turn off the CC... WTF?!?!? I will figure out whats behind all this hear... I just need to figure out the entire thought procress of the CC system - as long as its part of the fly by wire it can possible remain active.... same with the TC and VDC... if these systems are so dependent on keeping the MAF sensor like you say, then maybe the MAF will just have to stay in there.... Not like I care much its not really in the way.
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From: Out in the Sticks
Well I have made up my mind where I am going to get my install done, that is as soon as I can afford to get a turbo kit. Very impressive man, I'm stoked for you to get that built motor in. Can't wait to see the numbers, keep up the good work!