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Vortech Belt Slip/noise Solution

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Old 01-27-2007, 06:25 PM
  #21  
disturbed2483
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Originally Posted by TIMROD1011
Vortech Belt Slip/noise Solution-Fix

I have corrected the problems with the Vortech Drive Belt and Pulleys.

It works Great. No Belt or pulley noise. The Belt no longer has to be so tight that is stretches.

1. Machine the Stock Fixed Idler Pulley (for flat side of Belt)

2. Purchase a 12mm x 110mm Hex Head Bolt and machine (or grind) the Head Hight down to about .200 in.

3. Purchase a 92-1/8 long V-Belt Gates # 060915 (for 2.87 Dia Pulley or a Delta 060923 (for 3.31 dia Pulley)

4. Remove the Vortech middle Idler Pulley.

5. Route the Belt around the Crank, under and around the the Fix Idler to the Blower, over the top Idler, under the lower Idler to the power steering pump, around the Alt and over the Adj Idler.

Pictures will be posted tonight.

Timrod

excuse the noob question but what is step number 2 for?
Old 01-27-2007, 07:07 PM
  #22  
booger
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Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
cog belt snapped right in half today tuning on the dyno...
Thats odd . At what rpm ? Was it real loose to begin with ?
Old 01-27-2007, 07:14 PM
  #23  
Gilley
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Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
cog belt snapped right in half today tuning on the dyno...

Now I have to get a cog belt tomorrow morning. I hope NAPA has one.
Old 02-02-2007, 01:12 PM
  #24  
Bwicked
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lmao i dont understand along with 3 other people here... what is STEP 2 for???? I plan on getting this done 2mrw, any feedback please lol?
Old 02-02-2007, 01:51 PM
  #25  
OldManZ350
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Step 2 is for the bolt head to clear the serp belt. the stock bolt will interfere with the belt.
Old 02-02-2007, 02:01 PM
  #26  
sentry65
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ok so you take the stock idler pulley, machine down the rib grooves

then replace one of the bolts that's on the engine with one that's ground down so the bolt doesn't touch the belt
Old 02-02-2007, 04:06 PM
  #27  
Bwicked
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ok i understand. whatss the Thread size though? last thing i need thanks! also whats the typical charge for machining the pulley? I got quoted today $80-120 that sounds like a bit much dunno. let me know thanks again!
Old 02-02-2007, 06:15 PM
  #28  
Quamen
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^^^
While that is what a legit machine shop will most likely charge (closer to $80 just based on a minimum service charge) I am sure that you could find someone on the forum you could send it to and get it done for $50 including shipping. Its not like you have to do much to get the ribs off and if you have a lathe or know someone who does it could be easily done yourself.
Old 02-02-2007, 06:49 PM
  #29  
Bwicked
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heh ya, i'd rather pay $50 to someone who knows what has to be done on it then these really old grumpy guys at napa....... more then likely itll be $120 from them too..

anyone know about the thread size though??

any referalls for the machine?
Old 02-02-2007, 07:46 PM
  #30  
Vash350Z
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Make sure you tell whoever is machining it down for you to be careful, the first one I made snapped in half before I got down the street because I machined it a little too far.
Old 02-02-2007, 08:25 PM
  #31  
Bwicked
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eek! dont want that to happen lol. guess better safe then sorry... still anyone with thread size lol?
Old 02-03-2007, 09:53 AM
  #32  
OldManZ350
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Hay Bwicked............READ the original Post........

Last edited by OldManZ350; 10-23-2007 at 09:00 AM.
Old 02-03-2007, 03:28 PM
  #33  
FranksBAG
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instead of machining the one pulley why cant u just switch the smoothe idler pulley and the grooved one and use the old bolt off the pulley you're removing and relocating just a thought
Old 02-03-2007, 10:03 PM
  #34  
Bwicked
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ok also guys to clear things up lol that pulley to be machined is the WATER pump pulley right?

I'd like to order this btw

http://performancenissanparts.com/products/?id=5878

Wold this work? I'd prefer to have my stock one if i went back to stock or sold my supercharger.

Also it would be a benefit for cooling, but is a smaller pulley what creates underdrive or larger, i would assume larger, but like to make sure. so can i get this and machine this one?
Old 02-10-2007, 07:59 PM
  #35  
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bumpl can anyone answer my last post pls/? gettin that pulley machined tomorrow need to be surelol
Old 02-11-2007, 01:10 PM
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i haven't heard of anyone using that pulley

the stock pulley retails for $53, I'm not sure if it's worth paying to have a $90 one machined when the $53 one probably works just as well

so I think you'll be one of the first to use the arc one
I'm still not sure if it really will help cooling or what though. I don't know enough about it

Last edited by sentry65; 02-11-2007 at 01:13 PM.
Old 05-01-2007, 09:17 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by TIMROD1011
Step 2 is for the bolt head to clear the serp belt. the stock bolt will interfere with the belt.

any pix of which bolt needs to be replaced so it wont interfere with the belt????
Old 07-23-2007, 08:10 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Bwicked
ok also guys to clear things up lol that pulley to be machined is the WATER pump pulley right?

I'd like to order this btw

http://performancenissanparts.com/products/?id=5878

Wold this work? I'd prefer to have my stock one if i went back to stock or sold my supercharger.

Also it would be a benefit for cooling, but is a smaller pulley what creates underdrive or larger, i would assume larger, but like to make sure. so can i get this and machine this one?


im bumping this up for future reference

that pulley is not the water pump pulley, no matter how much it looks like one from any other car you have seen. so that ARC pulley will not do jack

the water pump is actually driven by the timing chain internally

Old 07-23-2007, 08:47 PM
  #39  
Nexx
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why is there a need to buy a new bolt? cant you just machine the one thats there to begin with?
Old 11-05-2007, 01:45 PM
  #40  
Everybodywildou
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bump. I'm also curious what need to be done to the bolt.


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