ok,

I just noticed that my AC is no longer working. The G35
kit's blower is right up against the AC lines to/from the condensor
so I'm thinking that it rubbed through...

Any idea how to check this? I noticed that the ac lines are
no longer cold like they used to be.

thanks,
rob

ps. can the ac compressor seaze if driving this a leak?

 

your compressor wont be damaged without refrigerant. It has a pressure sensor in it, and when the coolant level gets too low, the compressor will simply stop running....as a safety precaution.

 

thanks gq_626,

I spent the afternoon troubleshooting rather than my normal
drive. I saw that behaviour in the service manual as well.
Indeed, the compressor is not turning on even though the
AC is turned on.

Interesting, I did the built-in AC self test and it was ok.
There's no cel code or any error for when the ac compressor
is not activated even though ac is on... odd...

oh well, I removed the supercharger and found where it was
rubbing. I thought I'd moved it far enough back during the
original install but the vibrations must have gotten to it.
Both AC lines are gouged, but I see no hole. It probably
thin or small enough for a leak because the lines are oily
from the leak (I guess).

So, what now? I ordered some Red Epoxy which is supposed
to seal against r134 refrigerant. Any other suggestions?

thanks,
rob

 

I havent tried Epoxy before. Can you just order new lines? I know AC lines tend to be kinda pricey.

 

Here's what I found:

http://www.highsidechem.com/redepxy.html

I was going to slop some on and bring it to the dealer
for a leak test. If it passes (couldn't hurt), then I'll recharge
the system. If not, then I'll have them replace both lines
(ouch, I don't have the equipment or the know-how to replace
the lines myself).

Also heard about some teflon based sealer for aluminum ac lines
but I couldn't find it. Wish me luck...

thanks,
rob

(not a good week, first the brake problem, then success, then
no parking brake, then no ac, now no supercharger)...


redepxy.html

 

might want to check a sensor plug on the ac condensor.. when i upgraded my radiator the ac condenser plug got jarred loose and the ac would not turn on like you are describing.. hopefully its just this small thing..

 

If you have a mate that repairs radiators or intercoolers then he should be able to repair it for you.

 

yeah, check that platic cover on the bottom of your car. If you have green liquid crap (that doesn't smell like antifreeze) its definatly your AC line.
2 weeks ago the same thing happened to my car. Did a pressure test on my coolant and my A/C. The smaller line of the AC couldn't hold any pressure.
I'm bringing my car to infiniti to see how much it'd cost to repair it. I'll let you know the damage tomorrow.

 

cwtroy,

interesting, so does the vortech also rub against the AC lines?

I'm still waiting for the red epoxy to arrive. In the meantime,
I found a local Auto Air Conditioning shop that said he could
cut and repair the worn area and move the tubes out of the
way at the same time.

So, I figure $20 to patch, $80 to test. If no leak, then just pay
for refrigerant. If still leaking, then the test will tell me if anything
else is leaking. At that time, I'll decide to replace with new OEM
lines or replace with custom tubing (which sounds pretty good
right now)...

let us know how it works out for you and I will as well (as long
as the site is still running...)

thanks everyone,
rob

 

I have the vortech sc unit and my AC has been gone since the day i picked my car up

 

oh... did you check to see if the AC compressor is turning
if the AC is set on?

rob

ps. I'm learning alot about how the AC works due to this...

 

yeah, apparently when i was bending the AC line when trying to put in the piping, I bent it a little to much and it pinched the line which made it spring a leak. Wierd how it too so long for it to break. The guy at Infiniti told me he'd call me tomorrow with an estimate... let's hope for the best

 

any updates guys?

I put the red epoxy on (took longer to harden than I expected)
and it looks to be holding (crossed my fingers and toes).

Recharged it today and also had dye put in. I'l going to buy a
little UV led keyfob ($20) to keep an eye on the lines in the
coming weeks.

rob

 

lessons learn:

1. built-in AC diagnostics is very powerful, but steps 4 and 5 are *more* useful if you have the car running (i.e. it will turn on the compressor). Step 41 is cool because it runs your AC at it's coldest setting (even if it' 55 degrees outside and so would not
normally turn on).

2. built-in AC diagnostics will display the following sensors: ambient sensor, intake sensor, in-vehicle sensor. Great if you just want to know (i.e. does my big a*s intercooler block/
affect the temp seen by ecu).

3. built-in AC diagnostics will allow you to *ADJUST* an offset
value between what the car sees and what you see. For
example, you think it's 80 but car says it's 77 and you'd like
it to be a little colder so set offset to +3. Car should now say
80 and act accordingly...

4. if mod'n close to ac lines, most ac lines far enough away
to account for vibration. if steel meets aluminum, then AL
loses easily. AC repairs can be very costly...

enjoy,
rob