so, I can't take it anymore. I need to go FI and I just can't do TT. Too much money considering I want the APS.

I know it is better to get the tuner kit and buy some seperate things to make the kit reliable. addressing the timing...Like the j&S safeguard...

can you help me out on what I really need?

?AAM spec fuel solution
?Walbro high flow fuel pump
?injectors
?A/F sensor and guage
?boost guage
?Other gauges? (oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, egt?)
?does it come with BOV

these are some things I have notices people have with the ATI, I've probably missed some....


what all do I need to run this S/C safely? I plan on upgrading to a 9lb pulley eventually, what would I need to add for that?

Thanks in advance

 

I would like to know as well and have been browsing the different forums and it appears that while the ATI S/C package has a fairly large number of installs there and may be one of the simplest set-ups on the shelf there are certain issues. The Procharger appears also to be the easiest to install and it would appear also easy to un-install if you want to return to stock. The key here is to buy from an installer with alot of installs. You might want to check out http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...php?service=30

 

Girl, you need to make up your mind! lol

But if you're serious about going with the ATI, Tere knows all--talk to her.

 

All the stuff you mentioned I have. You DEFINITELY need to address the timing. Either with the J&S or the TS ECU flash for FI.

 

Your question depends on how much boost you want to run...More boost means more safety precautions... Fuel pump, regulator, flash, injectors, etc.

Yes the ATI kits come with a bypass valve.

IMO, the best buy is the tuner kit. Then buy the PE injectors and have your ecu reflashed by technosquare. Then add the 255 walbro fuel pump and your choice of afr.

As far as gauges, I would say at least a boost gauge and wideband AF gauge/meter. I have a fuel gauge. It is in the engine bay. It is nice to have this for the dyno while tuning.

 

I agree. The fuel solution on the ATI is terrible. Get the tuner version, and then the AAM fuel soltuion, Walbro 255, and a TS Reflash with 380cc injectors. That would be a very solid setup.

Guages are personal preference. But I would definately get a quality boost guage, and wideband A/F. Then fuel pressure and EGT would be my third and forth choice.

 

thanks for the input guys. Just what I needed....

Christi, yeah I am almost confusing myself. I really wanted the APS TT, but I just can't wait that long. If I got ATI, I get FI and pretty darn soon too! I am impatient. My car is slow and screaming help!

whosdaddy, Well, eventually I want to turn the boost up! So I want to definitely be safe while I do it.

Thanks all!

 

If you use the Walbro 190 fuel pump/TS ecu upgrade with PE380CC inj, do you need the AAM fuel solution???
Do you need to use the AAM system because of the high flow 255 pump??

R

 

Cat,
Just get a Vortech supercharger... It's the most reliable of the bunch... without being too expensive.

Turbo would be the way to go but if cost is an issue... Get the Vortech.

 

I don't know about that. I've seen some posts about Vortech problems and after the initial problems with the ATI Procharger were seen, they now seem to have been addressed. I haven't seen a post about a Procharger failure in a LONG time.

 

Hi can350z. Our fuel system will work with any fuel pump wether it is the stock pump, a 255, or other. The reason we designed and built the system is because of a few factors.

1-Fuel pressure in a boosted application is determined first by the base (idle pressure) and then by the the amount of boost the intake maifold sees. In a normally aspirated motor the vaccumm created in the lower intake manifold (where the injectors are mounted) under load/WOT will actually help to "draw" or "pull" fuel out of the injectors. In a boosted application the pressure that is created in the lower manifold by the turbo or supercharger will actually force fuel back into the injector.

This is where our system makes the difference. For every pound of boost the fuel pressure regulator adds one pound of pressure to the fuel line. This effectively counteracts the "blow back" effect.

2-The factory returnless system forces unused fuel to stay inside the factory rails for an extended period of time. When this happens the fuel tends to gain heat. This build-up of heat is made worse by the V shape of the engine. With our system the rails are constantly being fed fresh fuel. This fresh fuel is much cooler then the incoming compressed air. When the cooler fuel is injected it will actually absorb some of the heat from the intake charge and help to maintain lower combustion chamber temps. This helps with detonation control and an added bonus is a little extra power (not that much, but some)

3- The hoods and internal bore of the factory fuel system is puny. With high HP applications the injectors have the potential to be starved for fuel. As always a bad situation. Our system increases the internal bore by 500%! The internal area over the feed side of the injector is also significantly larger then the factory design.

Sorry for the long description. Just wanted to make sure it was explained completely and hopefully understandably

Thanks
Dave

 

I've got a J&S new in the box if you go that route...$425 bucks

--wes

 

I'm still curious though if the stock fuel pressure regulator can handle the 190 LPH flow and maintain constant stock fuel pressure... I believe with the 255 LPH pump that the fuel pressure at idle can drift well above stock pressure..
Also the JDM NISMO fuel pump assembly looks interesting at 165 LHP and stock fuel pressure... That may be the way to for the low boost applications with PE injectors and Techno/AA reflash.

R