CP 9.5:1 Piston & Pauter Rod install-2
10-24-2004, 03:59 AM
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CP 9.5:1 Piston & Pauter Rod install-2
Install Piston-2
After Piston Install
Install Cylinder head + Nismo Cam
Waiting APS TT Kit
all this jobs are take me around 16 hours
After Piston Install
Install Cylinder head + Nismo Cam
Waiting APS TT Kit
all this jobs are take me around 16 hours
I love seeing this stuff.
10-24-2004, 07:11 PM
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Looks great! I'm curious about 1 thing though. If one were to only want to R&R the pistons and rods, could you feasibly replace them without removing the heads? I mean, could you pull the oil pan and lower part of the block and drop the crank, rods and pistons from the bottom? How would you remove a piston if it's respective valves were closed, could you compress a spring so there wouldn't be a vacuum when you removed the piston? This could certainly save a lot of time.
10-24-2004, 07:23 PM
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I have not been underneath a 350Z yet, but you would have to jack the engine up pretty damn high to pull the pistons from the bottom, I've always pulled the pistons out from the top of the block and you don't have to worry about the valves on the heads anyway, as long as the retainers/keepers are in the valves never come out...my $.02
10-25-2004, 05:22 AM
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Originally posted by newtlicious
Looks great! I'm curious about 1 thing though. If one were to only want to R&R the pistons and rods, could you feasibly replace them without removing the heads? I mean, could you pull the oil pan and lower part of the block and drop the crank, rods and pistons from the bottom? How would you remove a piston if it's respective valves were closed, could you compress a spring so there wouldn't be a vacuum when you removed the piston? This could certainly save a lot of time.
Looks great! I'm curious about 1 thing though. If one were to only want to R&R the pistons and rods, could you feasibly replace them without removing the heads? I mean, could you pull the oil pan and lower part of the block and drop the crank, rods and pistons from the bottom? How would you remove a piston if it's respective valves were closed, could you compress a spring so there wouldn't be a vacuum when you removed the piston? This could certainly save a lot of time.
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10-25-2004, 03:26 PM
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Originally posted by phunk
nope... cant do the pistons from the bottom... ****in a that would be nice if you could tho!
nope... cant do the pistons from the bottom... ****in a that would be nice if you could tho!
11-02-2004, 10:15 PM
#12
Enron: I am not waiting for the sleeves anymore, I got the block back a long long time ago. I just hadnt started to build it. I will hopefully put the heads on the block towards the end of this week. I just want to max out the turbos... which should be in the area of 700hp.
-Charles
-Charles
11-03-2004, 02:03 AM
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Hey phunk
your VQ has 467rwhp 451lbft SAE @ 9.1psi
What kind of gas you use = Octane ????
one more think
I had a AT model is 350evo 3.9 final drive will worth for me ??
your VQ has 467rwhp 451lbft SAE @ 9.1psi
What kind of gas you use = Octane ????
one more think
I had a AT model is 350evo 3.9 final drive will worth for me ??
Last edited by nitrous350; 11-03-2004 at 02:05 AM.
12-15-2004, 05:43 PM
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Nitrous350,
have you dynoed the engine after putting on the APS kit?
by the way, how did you get the APS computer adjusted to handle the 9.5 CR, i'm in a similar situation as you in not having an APS dealer locally, so very interested in how you got it tuned.
have you dynoed the engine after putting on the APS kit?
by the way, how did you get the APS computer adjusted to handle the 9.5 CR, i'm in a similar situation as you in not having an APS dealer locally, so very interested in how you got it tuned.
12-25-2004, 04:25 PM
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Originally posted by ether
Nitrous350,
have you dynoed the engine after putting on the APS kit?
by the way, how did you get the APS computer adjusted to handle the 9.5 CR, i'm in a similar situation as you in not having an APS dealer locally, so very interested in how you got it tuned.
Nitrous350,
have you dynoed the engine after putting on the APS kit?
by the way, how did you get the APS computer adjusted to handle the 9.5 CR, i'm in a similar situation as you in not having an APS dealer locally, so very interested in how you got it tuned.
so keep Driving with A/F Gauge + GTech Pro.
I think my APS kit is Out from the Box mean It's set up for Stock 10.3 CR .....
and also we don't have APS dealer locally
so now I get HKS Boost Controller ajusting the Boost.......
12-27-2004, 06:33 AM
#18
Originally posted by johanna1
Are your pistons stock bore? Which should I get? I am getting sleeves also and was wondering if they come fitting just like the stock ones.
Are your pistons stock bore? Which should I get? I am getting sleeves also and was wondering if they come fitting just like the stock ones.
12-27-2004, 09:38 AM
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Originally posted by gq_626
I can answer this question for you. If you are putting pistons in a used block...any amount of usage, you should get .020 overbore pistons and the machine shop will bore your cyclinders out to fit the new pistons. If you are getting your block sleeved, you could use standard bore pistons. Regardless, the bores should be machined and matched to fit each piston with the correct pistons to wall clearance. In the case of the Arias pistons, that clearance is .003
I can answer this question for you. If you are putting pistons in a used block...any amount of usage, you should get .020 overbore pistons and the machine shop will bore your cyclinders out to fit the new pistons. If you are getting your block sleeved, you could use standard bore pistons. Regardless, the bores should be machined and matched to fit each piston with the correct pistons to wall clearance. In the case of the Arias pistons, that clearance is .003