What is your take on the new HKS supercharger??
#162
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Originally posted by Z1 Performance
Speed - what I dont understand is that if this is an issue stemming from the newer 04 and up ecu's, this should effect every aftermarket FI kit out there, as they all use some way of altering fuel signals.
I wonder if when TS releases their later 04 reflash, whether this will help clear things up
Speed - what I dont understand is that if this is an issue stemming from the newer 04 and up ecu's, this should effect every aftermarket FI kit out there, as they all use some way of altering fuel signals.
I wonder if when TS releases their later 04 reflash, whether this will help clear things up
Problem has also surfaced with Greddy TT also on ULEV2 vehicles. gq_626 posted about this not too long ago. the guy ended up pulling the kit.
It also depends if a given manufacturer has worked with the late model ECU's or not and altered programming according.
FI kits are really only now starting to be installed on the later model Z's.
HKS clearly told me they have not tested their kit on a late model Z.
Other than that I can only state the facts:
stft is -25% at idle and steady cruise and goes to 0 at full throttle on both cylinder banks
pre-cat A:F sensor voltage is almost 0mv on both banks at all rpms
post cat O2 sensor voltage is constant at 1mv on both banks at all rpms
according to the Z service manual, the error codes 1271/1281 indicate no output from the sensors and will occur at an A:F ratio of less than approx 11:1. ( this was interpreted by me from a graph in the manual plotting A:F ratio with sensor output voltage).
The "normal" 1.5 mv output from the A:F sensors occurs at a perfect 14.7:1 ratio
According to Nissan's diagnostics, the normal range of the A:F ratio is +/- 12.5 percent.
The exhaust tips are still black as hell.
These are the facts....I I 'm just trying to make sense of it all.
Last edited by Speedracer; 11-26-2004 at 03:14 PM.
#163
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That is very strange though. If it is only happening at idle, or steady speed cruise this is where the ecu itself is controlling things, not the F Con. The F Con is only controlling the fuel tables (and making whatever changes to timing it happens to make, if any) under boost when the additional injectors are firing.
What plugs are in the car right now?
What plugs are in the car right now?
#164
Re: Re: Re: HKS Supercharger
Originally posted by Speedracer
Peter,
My HKS SC dyno'd at 327rear wheel hp and 328lb-ft rear wheel torque. This was with the Nismo cat-back as the only other "power" mod. HKS claims a power gain of 80hp at the wheels, so they are right on the money in this regard. Approx 400hp at the crank. This was on 93 octane fuel using a hub dyno. The install was done at XX tuning in Wethersfield, CT. They are actually a big dealer of your products and are currently doing an APS install on a Z right now. They are very close to my home, and had I known at the time that they were an APS dealer, which I didn't find out until after i purchased my HKS kit, I would have probably chosen you kit over the HKS SC. In fact, if I don't get the HKS engine mangement stuff sorted out soon, I'm going to pull the HKS system, and go with the APS TT kit on a built motor. Please assure me that it'll work on my ULEV2 vehicle. This, of course, is assuming I can get money back on my $9500 investment.
Peter,
My HKS SC dyno'd at 327rear wheel hp and 328lb-ft rear wheel torque. This was with the Nismo cat-back as the only other "power" mod. HKS claims a power gain of 80hp at the wheels, so they are right on the money in this regard. Approx 400hp at the crank. This was on 93 octane fuel using a hub dyno. The install was done at XX tuning in Wethersfield, CT. They are actually a big dealer of your products and are currently doing an APS install on a Z right now. They are very close to my home, and had I known at the time that they were an APS dealer, which I didn't find out until after i purchased my HKS kit, I would have probably chosen you kit over the HKS SC. In fact, if I don't get the HKS engine mangement stuff sorted out soon, I'm going to pull the HKS system, and go with the APS TT kit on a built motor. Please assure me that it'll work on my ULEV2 vehicle. This, of course, is assuming I can get money back on my $9500 investment.
The APS Z car has a build date of 12 month 03 and is a ULEV2 spec, so I assume that all Z cars after this build date would be ULEV2 spec.
Good luck and I hope it all works out well for you.
Peter
APS
#165
Registered User
Originally posted by Z1 Performance
That is very strange though. If it is only happening at idle, or steady speed cruise this is where the ecu itself is controlling things, not the F Con. The F Con is only controlling the fuel tables (and making whatever changes to timing it happens to make, if any) under boost when the additional injectors are firing.
What plugs are in the car right now?
That is very strange though. If it is only happening at idle, or steady speed cruise this is where the ecu itself is controlling things, not the F Con. The F Con is only controlling the fuel tables (and making whatever changes to timing it happens to make, if any) under boost when the additional injectors are firing.
What plugs are in the car right now?
In any case, I'm going to do a full dyno test next weekend at XXtuning with d
#166
Registered User
Originally posted by Z1 Performance
That is very strange though. If it is only happening at idle, or steady speed cruise this is where the ecu itself is controlling things, not the F Con. The F Con is only controlling the fuel tables (and making whatever changes to timing it happens to make, if any) under boost when the additional injectors are firing.
What plugs are in the car right now?
That is very strange though. If it is only happening at idle, or steady speed cruise this is where the ecu itself is controlling things, not the F Con. The F Con is only controlling the fuel tables (and making whatever changes to timing it happens to make, if any) under boost when the additional injectors are firing.
What plugs are in the car right now?
I don't know what to make of the whole idle/cruise/boost thing as I really don't know what other inputs the F-CON uses. If it uses throttle position as an input, for example, it could be adding fuel before the actual manifold pressure reads positive. It is really confusing. This is the reason I went with HKS in the first place...I thought it would be all worked out becuase they have such expertise in the engine management area.
In any case, I'm going to do a full dyno test and data logging next weekend at XXtuning. Maybe you want to come up? The weather is supposed to be good. You could at least test drive the car. Ironically, it runs great!!!
Last edited by Speedracer; 11-27-2004 at 04:10 AM.
#168
Registered User
Originally posted by PumpedVA
I need to get a oil change this week and plan on having the dealer change my plugs also seeing as I am running rich.
whats a good plug to run?
I need to get a oil change this week and plan on having the dealer change my plugs also seeing as I am running rich.
whats a good plug to run?
Adam...you out there???
#169
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Yep, just woke up
I might be able to make it up there...it's quite a drive, but if i can swing it, it would be interesting to be there with. I would certainly try the stock heat range plugs....it might very well be this simple, who knows. Cetainly the colder plug is going to have the effect of running "richer" at idle. Certainly need to eliminate all the possibilities before moving forward. In any eent, I think doing a fair amt of datalogging to see what exactly happens when, will help us figure things out.
Incidentally, I have come to the conclusion that my car is not liking the combination of cold weather and the NISMO thermostat, as I popped another CE light last night. Same scenario - car sat all day till around 4, started her up, took her out for a drive, and about 10 mintues in (temp gauge was already showing normal as it warms up quite quickly with this thermo), bam, popped on. I have not scanned it yet this AM, but I am sure it will be the same code. I really have no practical need for the low temp thermo, so I guess we'll be pulling it soon.
As for the injectors on the HKS, go over the instructions and see how they are connected (ie what interfaces with them). I would imagine that they are governed solely by a seperate MAP sensor.
I might be able to make it up there...it's quite a drive, but if i can swing it, it would be interesting to be there with. I would certainly try the stock heat range plugs....it might very well be this simple, who knows. Cetainly the colder plug is going to have the effect of running "richer" at idle. Certainly need to eliminate all the possibilities before moving forward. In any eent, I think doing a fair amt of datalogging to see what exactly happens when, will help us figure things out.
Incidentally, I have come to the conclusion that my car is not liking the combination of cold weather and the NISMO thermostat, as I popped another CE light last night. Same scenario - car sat all day till around 4, started her up, took her out for a drive, and about 10 mintues in (temp gauge was already showing normal as it warms up quite quickly with this thermo), bam, popped on. I have not scanned it yet this AM, but I am sure it will be the same code. I really have no practical need for the low temp thermo, so I guess we'll be pulling it soon.
As for the injectors on the HKS, go over the instructions and see how they are connected (ie what interfaces with them). I would imagine that they are governed solely by a seperate MAP sensor.
#170
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speedracer,
someone on another thread (or forum) was asking about spark plugs and the forum consensus was: dont run more than 1 step colder or your idle might be rough. hope this helps
someone on another thread (or forum) was asking about spark plugs and the forum consensus was: dont run more than 1 step colder or your idle might be rough. hope this helps
#173
Registered User
Originally posted by Z1 Performance
there is no TS reflash for his production date yet
there is no TS reflash for his production date yet
Enough speculation on all of this. The HKS runs too rich. That is now a common experience for all of us running the kit. Next Saturday, Dec 4, I will doing some comprehensive dyno testing and data logging at XXTuning, Wethersfield, CT. I will hold off on all further comments until that time.
I can look at:
stft/ltft on both sensors/both banks
sensor voltage both sensors/both banks
MAF output
Intake temp
Coolant temp
all plotted in real time vs. rpm
Plus the standard dyno stuff..... boost, A/F, etc.
#176
Registered User
Originally posted by schweatty
speed,
are you going to take your car back to stock before you dyno it?
speed,
are you going to take your car back to stock before you dyno it?
#178
Registered User
here's the latest.....
Originally posted by schweatty
sorry, what i meant was: stock other than the SC kit.
sorry, what i meant was: stock other than the SC kit.
www.xxtuning.com
#180
Thanks for fighting the good fight and staying the course as this is helpful to all of us who have or may get this kit. Good luck and keep us posted as much as possible. HKS has always been a first class outfit so here's hoping they continue that tradition and resolve all your issues to your satisfaction.