the AEBS sleeves come with a unfinshed bore that is smaller than stock... so either way it was bored and honed for exact precision cylinder wall clearance. I would never used a stock sized piston in a block that wasnt sleeved smaller than stock so that you can bore it to proper clearance.

Not only do cylinder wall surfaces wear out, but cylinder out of round over time. So especially on a used block you want to do a .020 over minimum if you want to guarentee perfection.

-Charles

 

Engine is supposed to come out the bottom but my car is hard to get on a 2 post lift cause of the side skirts so we just took the trans off on the 4 post and really took off a lot of stuff with the engine still in the car... then pulled it out the top. We will be putting the motor back in the same way.

I am going to detail the engine bay and remove the steering rack to have it rebuilt probably since its got some issues.

Tommarow im gonna put this engine on a stand and take the valve keepers cause we need them for the other engine.

After this it might be a while before I have any real updates as I am super busy and being that this is my personal car it is not the priority around here.

I have a lot of other stuff to take care of and its gonna take me some time to get the small things done on the new motor and have it ready to go back in. I am reconfiguring some stuff and customizing some stuff to clean up the engine bay and make more space.

This car is a pain in the *** when compared to other cars especially. If these AEBS sleeves sink I am gonna be super super pissed and its gonna be a long time before I get motivated to do this again on my car. If those sleeves sink, im done for a while.

 

2 quick questions..

1) What would AEBS do if the sleeves did sink? Surely they at least warranty against sunken sleeves and would replace the sleeves, right?

2) What could have happened to your steering rack? That's not a common part to fail, especially on a low-mileage car (well under 100k at least). I'm really curious to find out what possibly could have gone wrong.

 

i would assume they would more than likely tell me that since its a racing engine and they dont know what i did with it that they will not warrenty it. I could be wrong, but i never ever bother expecting people to stand behind their product... that never typically goes beyond words. If someone does, more power to them, but I have learned that when you play this game you are on your own for the most part.

I am not sure what happend to it... all i know is that if I jiggle the steering wheel back and forth it clunks. and it randomly clunks while driving around. its very light you wouldnt hear it unless you had sounds turned off and low rpm cruising. i think you can slightly feel it in the steering wheel to but i havent driven it in a few days.

 

Ive heard AEBS stands behind their work and will redo the sleeves if they sink. If the whole motor somehow gets trashed because of the sleeves, id assume they might replace all the parts too. That im not sure about. The problem is, it costs me around 1200 to pull and reinstall the motor.

 

Engine Cratle= $150
Craftsmans tool set $100
Finding people in Houston to help = $50 for beer

Lots of people who post on h-i.com will help you if you ask.

 

It is physically impossible for the sleeves to sink because they have a step in the sleeve half way up the sleeve. The only worry I have is that it may not cool the same.

 

H-I isnt the best source to look for ppl to work on a car that ive dropped so much of my money in. If this was a fun project on the side, i would honestly, but this isnt. By the way, who are you on H-I?

 

Sinking sleeves is quite common in the honda world, where everyone and their gramma sleeves their motors. I think if the sleeve expands or stretches a certain way, it would still sink. And all it takes is a micro-fraction of an inch of sinkage to blow the motor.

 

I'm curious how much clearance the driver side turbo component have to the steering column shaft? I noted on the APS install that it was really really close (impeller housing to sterrign down shaft). Is it possible that engine movment causes contact interferance? or maybe the extra close proximity heat has cuased some shaft bearing damage etc.?

 

I really doubt it if it doesn't melt the factory plastic fuel fitting.

Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
Home of the Dynapack Dyno

 

It is impossible for the sleeves to sink if installed properly. If the install was botched, the sleeves could sink easily. You're betting the farm on the quality of the install, which undoubtedly varies from machinist to machinist.

 

I'm more curious about the mechanical clearance.
I have not been under a Greddy car yet, just an APS one.
On the APS one , there is literally less than .25" of clearance , engine off between the driver side impeller houseing and the shaft clamp. Clearance can close under "decel". So special attention aka. grindage is needed to guarantee that engine rocking does not cause the shaft to contact the turbo. Just something to keep in mind.

 

the turbo on the greddy kit is not even close to the steering shaft. the down pipe is but not close at all to the rack or the steering shaft

 

Yes indeed. No clearance problems really.

Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
Home of the Dynapack Dyno

 

Thats the whole point...installation is everything. And in the Honda world, they get it wrong...about 30% of the time.

 

ok.. boy that first time around with an engine sucks... next time will be much faster.

i got the stock engine complete torn down so that we could get the keepers out of it. tommarow morning i am taking the keepers to my head guy and we are gonna put the heads together then i am gonna come back to the shop and start assembly of the new engine.

by monday or tuesday i should have the engine almost all together but i do have to get the valve clearance set which can take some time depending on availability of the lifters from Nissan.

To my surprise this engine is perfect on the inside and so far no visable signs of any damage what so ever. How about that? After allllllllllll that abuse this thing looks still mint ... We will find out for SURE tho after taking the pistons out next week because there could be cracks on the ring land under the compression ring.

I wish I could have taken more pics but I really just needed to get it done so I didnt take any in the entire process of disassembly.

Unfortunatly I damaged one of the secondary timing chain tensioners... stupid little plastic thing cracked. So I have to order one of those... hopefully not backordered.

Over the weekend I am gonna try and get all the measurements done for the valve clearance so that I can order my new set of lifters on Monday. Once they come in and that secondary chain tensioner comes in... its go time. Should only take me 1 day to assemble the rest of the engine so that it can go back in the car... but we will see... I am really picky and if anything doesnt look perfect after cleaning, I will be replacing it.

 

What causes a sleeve to sink and how would that cause engine failure. Sorry, I have never dealt with sleeves before.

 

 

Nice shots.
Again, I hope the parts come in correct this time.
BTW, what did your engine builder think of the open deck design and any weaknesses it might have?

Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com
Home of the Dynapack Dyno