Eibach and SPC alignment kits
#61
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Maybe a dumb question, but how bad does your camber need to be before you buy these? My car is dropped 1" in front, 1.2" in rear. Could I go to an alignment shop first and ask them what my camber is (and if they can fix it) otherwise get the SPC kit?
ravi
ravi
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"how bad it is" depends on you. if you want the better cornering ability from the heavy negative camber then its not a big deal but if tire wear is of more importance to you then you will deffinately want these arms....i do suggest going to get an alignment to see how close to spec you can get. then decide from there if you want to purchase the aftermarket arms for more positive adjustment.....for me the tire wear was more important so immediately opted for the aftermarket front/rear arms.....
-justin
-justin
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see if your shop offers lifetime alignment. it may be expensive now, but you could go in as long as you own your car. this way, if you ever want to change your ride height (which will affect camber/toe, blah blah blah), you could go in to get the alignment checked. save those tires!!
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Originally Posted by n1cK!
see if your shop offers lifetime alignment. it may be expensive now, but you could go in as long as you own your car. this way, if you ever want to change your ride height (which will affect camber/toe, blah blah blah), you could go in to get the alignment checked. save those tires!!
true that,
i have been to evan's 6 times in the last year. thank god i got the lifetime alignment, so they aren't making a dime off of me.
justin,
the G35 and 350Z are the same in terms of suspension, and all parts are interchangable.
Chad
#68
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Originally Posted by 350Track
N1ck, any comments on the install of the arms & toe bolts according to Chad's instructions? I plan on doing this Thursday.
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I'm going to use a dremel with the extension and the 115 bit. I have everything but the kit. Was the driver's side a pain because of the exhaust...assuming you have stock exhaust?
Also, you have to trim/drill/cut a total of 4 places right? So were the places towards the front of the car hard to reach?
Also, you have to trim/drill/cut a total of 4 places right? So were the places towards the front of the car hard to reach?
#70
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Originally Posted by 350Track
I'm going to use a dremel with the extension and the 115 bit. I have everything but the kit. Was the driver's side a pain because of the exhaust...assuming you have stock exhaust?
Also, you have to trim/drill/cut a total of 4 places right? So were the places towards the front of the car hard to reach?
Also, you have to trim/drill/cut a total of 4 places right? So were the places towards the front of the car hard to reach?
yeah i only had to trim 4 places. there are a total of 4 holes. the holes weren't hard to reach at all even with my stock exhaust. All I had to remove was the exhaust piece that diverts air. only 4 10mm bolts.
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Originally Posted by 350Track
N1ck, any comments on the install of the arms & toe bolts according to Chad's instructions? I plan on doing this Thursday.
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Up until yesterday, I was thinking that this toe-bolt replaced the inner camber arm's bolt. But now I realize that the toe-bolt goes to the inner bolt for the control arm that holds the spring in place.
So this is my new confusion. It made sense for me to trim only the inside of the toe-bolt area assuming I was doing this with the camber arm...but I'm not. It's supposed to be for the control arm...which is actually to the rear of the centerpoint of the wheel. Chad's instructions say that we only need to trim the inside part of the template. But this "now" confuses me. Because if I move that bolt inward (after trimming it out) won't it move my toe out? So if anything, should we be trimming the outside (not the inside) portion of these templates to help bring our toe in?
Sorry guys, I'm just really confused how moving the bolt in will actually move my toe in now?
So this is my new confusion. It made sense for me to trim only the inside of the toe-bolt area assuming I was doing this with the camber arm...but I'm not. It's supposed to be for the control arm...which is actually to the rear of the centerpoint of the wheel. Chad's instructions say that we only need to trim the inside part of the template. But this "now" confuses me. Because if I move that bolt inward (after trimming it out) won't it move my toe out? So if anything, should we be trimming the outside (not the inside) portion of these templates to help bring our toe in?
Sorry guys, I'm just really confused how moving the bolt in will actually move my toe in now?
#75
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Originally Posted by 350Track
Up until yesterday, I was thinking that this toe-bolt replaced the inner camber arm's bolt. But now I realize that the toe-bolt goes to the inner bolt for the control arm that holds the spring in place.
So this is my new confusion. It made sense for me to trim only the inside of the toe-bolt area assuming I was doing this with the camber arm...but I'm not. It's supposed to be for the control arm...which is actually to the rear of the centerpoint of the wheel. Chad's instructions say that we only need to trim the inside part of the template. But this "now" confuses me. Because if I move that bolt inward (after trimming it out) won't it move my toe out? So if anything, should we be trimming the outside (not the inside) portion of these templates to help bring our toe in?
Sorry guys, I'm just really confused how moving the bolt in will actually move my toe in now?
So this is my new confusion. It made sense for me to trim only the inside of the toe-bolt area assuming I was doing this with the camber arm...but I'm not. It's supposed to be for the control arm...which is actually to the rear of the centerpoint of the wheel. Chad's instructions say that we only need to trim the inside part of the template. But this "now" confuses me. Because if I move that bolt inward (after trimming it out) won't it move my toe out? So if anything, should we be trimming the outside (not the inside) portion of these templates to help bring our toe in?
Sorry guys, I'm just really confused how moving the bolt in will actually move my toe in now?
the bolt is to the rear of the centerpoint of the wheel, but that will act as the pivot point (persay). when the cam bolt is turned, it will pull or push on that "control arm", moving it "in and out".
when trimming the "inner" side of the hole to elongate it, in a sense, you're giving the cam bolt the room it needs to pull that arm "in". god i hope this makes sense. think of it as camber adjustments, just tilted 90 degrees with respect to the wheel. (i hope that didn't make it worse!).
i hope you could see what i'm talkin' about. i find that if you stare at something long enough, things become much clearer
#76
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350ztrack. you are getting slightly confused. if you see how a cam bolt works it makes more sense. the cam shaft of the bolt pushes against an edge of your slotted hole moving the arm in the opposite direction of the cam. look at your larger cam bolt before you install it & see how it looks as you rotate it. as the cam moves inward it would push the control arm outwards making an opposite effect from what your picturing.
your lower control arm is your toe arm. your camber arm has nothing to do with toe as it is stationary on the z, unless of course you opt for an adjustable unit like the Kinetix arm, but thats a different story. the directions you read are correct so deffinately follow them, it will work.
somthing i posted in the past on numerous occasions yet noone seems to trust my tech skills...you can elongate the outer bolt hole of the lower control arm by about 1/4" where the spindle meets the lower control arm. then push the spindle in towards the center of the car. lock the bolt tight using a lock washer on the spindle to control arm bolt to lock it in place. then use your factory cam/toe bolts to adjust the toe correctly as you have already added the extra needed toe that you didnt have to begin with. then you have a fully adjustable toe control over factory w/o purchasing any aftermarket items! yes, incase you ask, this will have an effect on camber due to its location. in my case with the fully adjustable Kinetix pieces this method above gave me total control over both camber & toe with no sacrifice! just wanted to add that, best of luck to you!!
-justin
your lower control arm is your toe arm. your camber arm has nothing to do with toe as it is stationary on the z, unless of course you opt for an adjustable unit like the Kinetix arm, but thats a different story. the directions you read are correct so deffinately follow them, it will work.
somthing i posted in the past on numerous occasions yet noone seems to trust my tech skills...you can elongate the outer bolt hole of the lower control arm by about 1/4" where the spindle meets the lower control arm. then push the spindle in towards the center of the car. lock the bolt tight using a lock washer on the spindle to control arm bolt to lock it in place. then use your factory cam/toe bolts to adjust the toe correctly as you have already added the extra needed toe that you didnt have to begin with. then you have a fully adjustable toe control over factory w/o purchasing any aftermarket items! yes, incase you ask, this will have an effect on camber due to its location. in my case with the fully adjustable Kinetix pieces this method above gave me total control over both camber & toe with no sacrifice! just wanted to add that, best of luck to you!!
-justin
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Thanks for the detailed descriptions. The idea of a cam-bolt is just so new to me, and I think that's why I was so confused. I hate putting parts on my car if I can't make sense out of them. At this point, I'm already done with the install. I just need an alignment...it goes in tomorrow
#78
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Originally Posted by 350Track
Thanks for the detailed descriptions. The idea of a cam-bolt is just so new to me, and I think that's why I was so confused. I hate putting parts on my car if I can't make sense out of them. At this point, I'm already done with the install. I just need an alignment...it goes in tomorrow
#79
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I got my car aligned today, and everything is w/in spec. I noticed that it was really my rear driver's side that needed the kit the most. My rear passenger side was almost perfect. I'm very happy with my alignment...I had Nissan do it.
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