I am not going to spend 2500 for an OEM brake replacement, and buying aftermarket rotors is not exactly cheap either. Why can't ppl with brembos just change the pads? my rotos look fine to me, and I see no reason to change them.

My question is, will anything happen if I go ahead and leave the rotors and just get pads?

 

Holy **** that's a relief. mc350z you are my new best friend! that's freaking cheap! Please tell me the 703 bucks includes all 4 rotors!

 

Brembo option is actually $1,500. Inspect your rotors, they might be fine and just get some new pads.

 

I have an 04. I was looking at replacement rotors from stillen. they are selling the front and rear sets seperatley for like 450! I was like wtf that's barely better than OEM. Man I woulda gotten ripped off really bad if u hadn't given me that link

Since u already have these, is there any squeeking from the brakes? I know some aftermarket setups squeek a lot.

 

$2500, WTF??

When my rears were low, I picked up some Project MU pads for ~$90. The rotors were still good, just have them resurfaced. If you don't know how to change the pads yourself, labor at any shop should be ~100 including resurfacing the rotors. So with pads and labor, you should be looking to spend under $200.

I wouldn't go around spending several hundreds or even thousands on replacing rotors or "upgrading" brakes unnecessarily. Once your rotors are gone, then get new ones. But the stock ones are good for at LEAST 1 resurface, depending on conditions, you can probably get 2 out of them.

Once my rear rotors were gone, I pickd up some Brembo slotted rotors for like $300. The fronts are roughly the same price for the pads and rotors, maybe $10-20 more for the fronts.

I don't autocross, but I do track on road coarses. The craziest day was when we only had like 25 cars, so we only did 2 run groups. Thats 30 minutres on the track, 30 minutes off, then back on again. My brakes did not fade even once, then ENTIRE day. From 8am - 5pm. I really don't see much need to extensively upgrade the OEM Brembos. I am very satisfied with their performance considering they are an OEM part that came with the car. Since then, I have only upgraded the pads, and have noticed these pads last much longer than stock, and have a stronger initial bite, and still do not fade. I have also switched to slotted rotors, and I might go SS lines and better fluid in the future when I have time to bleed my fluid.

All in all, I would suggest just changing the parts as needed, and spend your money elsewhere. My entire setup, pads, fluid, lines, rotors for all 4 corners if I were to do it all at once would be around $950-1,000. But I just do it as th stock parts wear out, then replace with aftermarket/performance.

 

Let's see if Mr. mc350z agrees with me.

Brake rotors and brake pads need to be broken in. This applies to resurfaced rotors too.

In the quest for gas mileage the manufactures have cut weight where ever possible. In my experience with brakes, rotors are as thin as possible when new. This applies to a G35 or an F350 Diesel.

My suggestion, if there is no pulsation when you are braking, just slap pads on it. The rotor will already be broken in and all you have to worry about is the pad.

 

no, you are correct it is not necessary to turn the rotors everytime you change the pads. This is something that has just worked its way into peoples heads over the years because most everyplace that does brakes tells you that it needs to be done. It is an easy way for them to make a buck off of people.

If there is sufficient thickness left and there is no other problems, you will be good to go with just new pads.

 

I always resurface my rotors everytime I change my pads.

I do them myself, so I am not getting suckered by some shop wanting my money. Even if the steering wheel doesn't vibrate like crazy, your rotors are still not true and flat.

If anyone here has ever operated a brake lathe, then you know what I'm talknig about. You can see the uneven areas when you cut it, even if you can't see it with your eyes, or feel it with your hands, its uneven.

It could just be personal prefrence, but I like to have a flat rotor if I am putting in a new flat pad, to maximize the contact area.

 

Hard for people to visualize that 0.0028" is way out of spec...........less than the thickness of a human hair............duh looks ok to me.

 

How many miles did you put on this setup? Thanks!

 

you can get away with just changing the pads if the rotors are ok.

 

the cost of OEM rotors and Pads is very expensive... looks like they are also charging you alot of labor to boot...

There are 2 stage kit options available as mentioned above...

they can also be purchased here...

http://mynismo.com/products/?id=2966

 

Regardless of the pads you choose, if you are not using new or resurfaced rotors, you will be more prone to dust and noise.

Your old material is embedded in the rotor for at least the next 500 miles, possible more if it continues to get pushed into them and the pads will not have a perfectly smooth surface to break into leaving the new pads with an irregular surface and prone to noise.

Chris

 

I don't know about your fist statement....

Next time you take your rotors to Autozone to get resurfaced try this. When you get home get a good stiff brush, some dishwashing soap, and a good garden hose. Wash those rotors. You will be amazed at how much metal comes off that rotor.

I know a lot of you are too young to know what a record is but, when a rotor is turned the carbide bit cuts grooves into the rotor. The metal filings will get into these grooves. On your first brake application that metal will get shoved into the pad. When I do turn rotors I always do a NON DIRECTIONAL FINISH and wash the poop out of those rotors.

I am also still a firm believer in that if there is no pulsation, don't worry about it. Pads and rotors break in together. Street pads are basically the same, so it stands to reason that the rotors are already broken in at the time of a brake job.