02trex

Tired of an aching left leg in heavy traffic?
Tired of the revs climbing way high when taking off from a stop?
Tired of the car jerking between shifts?
Tired of trying to find the point at which the clutch engages?

If so, this mod is for you:
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1

I performed this mod yesterday with great results!

yobri

iTrader: (2)

So it worked for you, huh?

Was the alteration as difficult as the guy in that forum made it sound? Are you driving a G or Z?

Thanks for the info.

02trex

This mod takes about five minutes and is very easy.

Once on the floorboard, I removed the fuse box cover, placed the tip of a screwdriver into the fork and braced it so the fork would not move, placed a 12mm open end on the nut and broke it loose; next you simply turn the adjustment rod (I went 4 turns) and then re-tightened the nut.

I own a G coupe.

AndyB

I read the thread and I am still a little confused. What EXACTLY are they changing? Does anyone have a picture or diagram or a better description?

Before doing the modification I would want to be sure that you still get FULL engagement and disengaement of the clutch. If not, you will wear it out fast.

On the other hand, if this just decreases the travel (and increases the effort) of the pedal it sounds like a good mod to me!

Can anyone elaborate on this?

fanatic6711

Basically I'm just writing so I get updates in my e-mail.

Sounds like a great mod. Someone try and record the process.

yobri

iTrader: (2)

You could also click the "Subscribe to this thread" link on the bottom of the page to accomplish the same thing.

Try other threads and you'll see. Just FYI.

fanatic6711

never noticed that option, cool!

02trex

Tools Used: short flat-head screwdriver
Small handled 12mm open end wrench

1. Move the driver’s seat back and get in the floor board on your back.
2. Remove the fuse box cover.
3. Locate the clutch pedal assembly.
4. Notice the pedal has a fork attached to it; the fork is connected to a rod that goes back toward the firewall.
5. Insert the tip of the screwdriver into the fork and brace it.
6. Place the 12mm open end wrench on the nut located directly behind the fork, on the rod.
7. Break the nut loose.
8. Grab the rod with your fingers and turn it clockwise.
9. Re-tighten the nut.
10. Replace the fuse box cover.
11. Enjoy.

I went 4 turns and it ended up perfect, but you may want to start out with 2 turns and see how it feels; you do not want to turn it too many times or the pedal could end up too low to the floor, in which case the clutch would not be disengaged when you fully depress the pedal. If this were the case, the car would begin to move in gear with the clutch depressed, or stall.

afr0puff

iTrader: (1)

What do you mean by step 5?

1nate7

iTrader: (19)

afropuff,

When you put the 12mm wrench on the locknut behind the fork, the fork will want to turn with it. You need some way to hold the fork solid while you break the nut loose. If you can get enough rotation with the wrench this step is not required. The fork will only turn so much on the clutch pedal arm. Because of the tight space its hard to get a more than 1/8 of a turn at a time, so if you can keep the fork from moving its easier to break loose the nut. Hope this helps, if you give it a try you will probably see what I mean.

yobri

iTrader: (2)

I'm hoping that this adjustment will be similar with the Z as the instructions here are for the G....

tcfool

I turned mine 5 times and I think 6 would be perfect.. I am going to use the easy trun method instead of removing the fork... In fact i will do it now...

TC

tienlo

I did it this morning at 3am in the dark. apart from me having a big head and not being able to see past the pedals (MAN its tight in there) it was a fairly simple operation. There is a thread on ********** with pictures which explain it really well.

Clutch engages fully without me needing to move my heel or knee now, just ankle. Makes it easy to engage clutch & means i can slip the clutch more consistently when dragging off the line.

protocav

iTrader: (3)

did you ever think about just moving the seat back to accomplish the same results?

KManZ

iTrader: (8)

Wow.. this is an old thread resurrected! I did this to my Z way back after I first got it.. I think I turned it back though because I was worried that I was wearing my clutch down.

But yeah, the pedal travel shortens considerably which makes driving a little more easy. For some reason my Z's engagement point is like a mile from the floor so it is hard to be smooth in first gear from a dead stop... I think I am going to lower my pedal again.

Thanks to whomever uncovered this thread!!!!!!!

Brando

I adjusted mine over ayear ago....about 10K miles.....and no problems so far.

You just don't want to adjust it too far....I got mine even with the brake pedal. It sarted out about an inch higher and sucked!

TakeiteZ

okay so would this work on a 350 or not? I'm too lazy to get up under there and look for myself...

Miraclekidjr

iTrader: (3)

Wow, just tried it for the Z and I couldn't get that damn nut loose, there was a metal bar in the way and it wouldnt budge...any tips?

Miraclekidjr

iTrader: (3)

haha J/K....wrong way

speedygp

I also just performed this mod, and once you figure it out, it is realtively easy. I actually made a line with a sharpie, then I rotated it 2 full rotations. Test drove, and decided it was a little too low to the floor, so I backed it off 1 full rotation, and it is perfect!!!!!!!! I am glad i found this thread, becuase I always thought the G's clutch was engaging a little too high!!