WestCoastRiot

Guys I don't post much on here, but I do spend a lot of time reading and learning from everyone's experience.

I pulled the throttle body of the car and cleaned it out. The car would occasionally stall and idle weird. So after searching and finding out what the solution was I sprayed the throttle body cleaner and cleaned all the carbon build up.

I did the idle relearn produce, the ECU reset and all that good stuff. The Check Engine Light keeps coming back on.

I noticed after cleaning the throttle body that the throttle late doesn't want to seat against the housing completely. Again, I have performed the throttle pedal relearn, the idle relearn, ECU reset successfully.

DID I RUIN MY THROTTLE BODY SOMEHOW? I was holding the plate open when i was scrubbing the carbon build up off. Was that my mistake?

Help please. I want to make sure that purchasing a new throttle body will actually solve this problem. It would be a big waste of money if I bought a new throttle body and had this same issue.

Entaille

iTrader: (16)

you have a CEL. the first step is always to go get the code pulled and identified. typically places like autozone will do this for free for you. dealership will probably do it for a few bucks.

don't start speculating and spending money until you know what the code is. you don't want to run into some coincidental timing thing and waste money : )

AJCaron12

He is right. Always check the code first. There is nothing wrong with holding the throttle plate open while cleaning the TBody. However, if it is stuck open, that could be your problem and you may need a new TBody.

BLACK-OUT

iTrader: (3)

Same thing happened with my friend Shawn's VW .:R32. He did the exact same thing. took his thorttle body off to clean it and then it couldn't find home again. He had to get a new TB. But first get that code scanned and get back to us.

WestCoastRiot

I had the code scanned. It was: p0507 High rpm idle.

WestCoastRiot

No help? No Love?

AJCaron12

If it's stuck open then you need a new throttle body.

dchi_t

iTrader: (1)

when you say "stuck open" how open are we talking about? i've been trying to figure out the same problem, i've take the TB off several times to find whats wrong, i did however notice a tiny opening at the top and bottom on the TB when i took it off, is this normal? is the tiny opening for idle? I can successfully perform the idle relearn, but the idle goes back up to ~1000rpm if i turn off and turn the engine back on

bamboomerang

iTrader: (1)

The TB plate shouldn't be touched if the TB isn't plugged in with the ignition/accessory on. I replaced a TB after learning this the hard way, and the same problem ensued, but there is a wacky sounding trick that really does work.

Explanation: When you do the idle relearn, you essentially warm up the car to operating temps, do the pedal dance (which I'm sure you're aware of now) and then the ECU 'records' the idle during the part when you start the car (which is why the coolant needs to be warmed up when you do this, etc). If the car is idling high (which is usually the problem) - the point in the relearn where you 'record' the idle, actually just programs the ECU with the current (in this case the incorrect) idle setting, so after resetting the code, it will just return within 2-3 restarts. `

The trick: After the car is all warmed up and you're ready to do the relearn procedure, with the engine off, unplug 2 or 3 injector plugs. If the car was idling at 1000-1100 rpm, you want to bring it down to where it should be (675? I did this on a maxima, same engine control system/TB) you'll need to experiment with this part. 'Disconnecting' the cylinders mechanically forces the engine to drop RPM, so when the relearn gets to it's 'recording' phase, the signals it gets from the cam/crank are where they should be, and it commits it to memory and adjusts the TB's idle air bypass accordingly to keep it running at that RPM. Don't rev the engine on only 3 cylinders, and don't do that section of the relearn for longer than necessary, or you will throw a code. If you do, you need to restart, the amount of time it takes to actually record the idle and the amount it takes to throw a misfire code are very close to one another, so you need to find the balance. Once you get the relearn to stick, plug the 3 injectors back in, go for a drive and it should idle correctly. Now do the relearn procedure again without disconnecting the injectors for good measure, and it should stick and the code shouldn't come back.

dchi_t

iTrader: (1)

reading your explanation, i can just warm up the car to reg operating temp, do the whole pedal dance and the car will start off with proper idle (after the last pedal) dance, why doesnt the ecu record that? i know what you're saying with the unplugging the fuel injector thing, but it shouldnt matter if i'm able to get the idle down to spec, the problem is the ecu doesnt remember it.

SS21CA

iTrader: (7)

Not sure what MY your car is or if it even matters.

Here is how we got mine to work, because I had the same exact issue and it was killing me thinking about replacing it when all I was doing is cleaning it.

Unplug battery, unplug TB, unplug ECU. wait a few min, plug them all back again.

You can play with different iterations of this, then try starting and doing the idle learn again. This is how we got it the TB to relearn and work on my car after cleaning. It was a pain in the *** but better than buying a new TB when you don't need it.

If it works for you credit goes to Jon @ HB Speed (now known as COBB Tuning in OC).

scoobyrex247

iTrader: (7)

i wonder how disconnecting the ecm, tb, would be any different from just unplugging the battery...

SuperBlack350z

iTrader: (59)

yes, you will need to buy another properly working throttle body. you messed yours up.

SS21CA

iTrader: (7)

I have no idea. But it worked, that's all I have to say. We did try a few different ways, it may have been -ecu -tb w/ battery connected. this was 3 years ago though. Just try it out and see if it works.

bamboomerang

iTrader: (1)

Are you saying you car is idling perfectly, yet you still get the code?

If the warm/operating temp idle is within spec, you should be able to simply reset the ECU and do the base idle relearn (usually it's high, hence the need for the relearn). Unplug the battery for 24-36 hours (or any other method of resetting) and try it again, the relearn procedure just hasn't properly 'stuck'; the timing/count has to be spot on when you do it manually. When you get it, the idle will 'become' whatever it records during the start-up sequence and the engine light flashing etc will be exactly as described in the FSM.

The TB is always slightly open to accommodate cold startups and maintain idle air flowing past the throttle plate, so whatever position it's at to hold a steady idle of X rpm, is recorded during the idle relearn and it reverts back to that position once the car is warmed up/closed loop. If the TB is actually damaged mechanically, it won't be able to hold a steady position. I damaged one by cleaning it and flicking the plate opened and closed, and the tach would bounce if I rocked the car side to side or quickly let on/off the brakes at 2mph. Reman units from rockauto are only 75 and they work fine if that turns out to be the case.

dchi_t

iTrader: (1)

I'm saying i can successfully do the idle relearn and the rpm would drop down to spec but once i turn the engine off and restart the engine, the rpm would go back to ~1000rpm range. i can do the idle relearn again and the rpm will drop back down to spec, i turn off the engine, start it back up, and the rpm goes back to ~1k. i even drop the car 30+miles after i got the rpm down in hopes the ecu will learn, still no luck.