I'm curious to know what you G35 owners would buy if you had $10,000 to spend on aftermarket parts (not including cost of labor) for a G35 6MT Coupe. Everything but FI and interior/exterior work, please.

~THT

 

It's going to be hard to spend 10,000 and do no FI , interior, or exterior work. What's left? this is what I would do.

1) Light weight wheels (unless that counts as exterior)
2) Tein Flex coilovers with edfc controller
3) intake- Ztube w/stillen or pop charger
4) Crawford plenum
5) Headers
6) Hi flow cats
7) exhaust
8) Sway bars
9) Short shifter

That should be around 8-9K

 

If I had $10K to spend this is what I would buy:

1. 19" Volk wheels/SO3 tire combo ($3500)
2. Tein Basic Coilovers ($800)
3. Injen Intake or JWT Popcharger ($225)
4. Borla Exhaust ($750)
5. Random Tech High Flow Cats ($500)
6. Crawford Plenum ($500)
7. Crawford Headers ($1100)
8. TechnoSquare ECU ($600)
9. Tilton Lightweight Clutch/Flywheel Package (when street comes out) ($1000)
10. Hawk HPS Brake Pads ($175)
11. Brembo Cross Drilled Rotors ($700)

That's about $9800.. Count in alot more money for installing all that stuff.

 

custom TT setup sounds about 10k

 

blower for 5 grand, wheels for 3500, exhaust, cats and tuning. thats a little over 10 grand, but hey at least you'll be happy.

 

breakin the rules...

 

Id have to say an RB26 Swap

 

No pulley or flywheel replacement?

~THT

 

I put a lightweight clutch/flywheel combo in mine.. The race version of this setup is only 16 lbs. but not very streetable. I'm looking forward to seeing the street version.

 

who makes this setup?

 

Tilton makes the race setup currently. Checkout Performance Nissan!!

Performance Nissan Tilton Clutch Flywheel Package

 

Are G35 and 350Z parts interchangeable or is it on a case by case basis?

~THT

 

What a nice dream to sit back and reflect upon.

If you have that money for non cosmetic performance additions, and you are not wanting to go forced induction, then it means that you are reasonably happy with the horsepower you get stock. That is a rational position to take, because 280 stock crank hp and perhaps 270lbft torque are quite a lot, and you can spend a bunch of money clawing for more hp in dribs and drabs.

If you want PERFORMANCE returns beyond just hp and torque gains which would allow a skilled driver to spank the car you had before the mods.....then I would seriously consider a prioritization of changes to handling, such as suspension, and drivetrain mods. Some hp mods of course, but here is my list for a ROAD car, not a street light racer.

1. JWT flywheel and high performance clutch package. $1,000 (it is still street civil, not too noisy, and gives big results to getting revs up quickly, at 14lbs relative to the stock 38 pound flywheel unit). The performance clutch will take up very crisply and nicely compared to stock, which is a bit mushy in comparison.

2. Nismo limited slip differential. ($900). Grabs the road in the corners and combined with the flywheel and clutch mod will help you to just launch out of the turns compared to stock.

3. Stiffer sway bars. ($400-500). Absolute must.

4. Coilover suspension springs and dampers with electronic damping force control. ($2,200). Lower car 1" all around. This lowers the center of mass for the car, and allows you to set reasonably enjoyable street setting for daily driving and cruising, and at the touch of a button convert to serious curve carving stiffness. I have the unit on my car and cannot say enough positively to convey how much I enjoy it and what it does to improve the cornering and handling characteristics over stock.

5. Bigger feet. 245 front and 275 rear. More grip for turning and stopping (tires stop cars, not brakes). Others may disagree but I vote to leave the wheels. The saved weight by going to race wheels is not going to be worth the cost relative to performance gain for streets and roads. You can go to Nismo or track Z if you want, but that is outside the budget. Ultra high summer performance tires will be about ($1,000).

6.IF you are not going to track it, leave the brake rotors and calipers alone. The Brembos are great. Do put in Axxis Ultimate brake pads, and Goodridge stainless brake lines, and upgraded brake fluid such as Motul RBF 600.($300).

7. JWT popcharger and Z tube. ($300)

8.Random Tech Cats ($500)

9.UR crank pulley ($200).

10.Cat back stainless exhaust ($700)

10.Crawford Plenum ($700)

12.Technosquare ECU ($600)

13.Short throw shifter. Wait for the B&M ($200).

14. And with the Grand left over???? High performance driving courses, my friend. Because the car stock out of the box is already more than the vast majority of us can handle, and with the changes above, that car will make more moves than a roach on steroids. Learn to use it before you kill yourself or somebody else!!!!!!!!! This mod to driver skill will be the single greatest performance enhancer to the car and its safe use. Indeed, it should be first on the list in terms of bang for the buck.

If you really have the ten large to do this....you get to be the forum poster child for the next month. Don't make us go through this just for an intellectual exercise. Keep us informed all the way through the process about the changes as you make them and what your impressions are, as it will be most valuable to others....even if it is only for dreaming.

Good luck.

 

Thank you for the very informative posts, everyone. I'm still deciding on what car I want to buy and it sorta depends on what all I can do with $10K in aftermarket parts. So far, the G sounds like the car I want to get but I'm going to have to wait just a little bit.

Well, I'd like to keep the car street legal; aren't the RT high flow cats for offroad use only?

The reason why I ruled out FI is because I don't want to damage the car and FI just seems a little extreme. I should have specified what my goal with the car was. I want it to have more power throughout the entire RPM range however, I don't mean for it to be a street racer or track machine. It will be a daily driver so I will definitely want to do suspension work to compensate for the increased power.

~THT

 

One man's paragon can be another man's pariah.

FI is not at all extreme, if handled properly. My car is a daily driver, in LA freeway traffic conditions. It is very civil and docile when driven properly. There are plenty of reasons to logically decide not to do FI, but manageability and damage to your car are not among them when you do it right.

Again, loads of different approaches to the issues of performance and power. My take on this car as a great platform for modifications is as follows:
1. The car comes stock with lots and lots of power and torque. It is not necessary to spend bucks scrabbling for a handful of ponies in hp gains to the NA engine. Rather, spend the money putting that power to work more effectively through the suspension and drivetrain and tires. If you want to do a couple things for ten or maybe twenty horses....fine, go ahead. But it won't impact your performance as much as driving lessons and suspension and drivetrain mods will....on this car as it comes to us now from the factory.

2. If you want power, don't mess around. Go FI and really get power.

Since you must consider serious upgrades to suspension etc after you get FI, it makes sense to do the suspension/drivetrain work first, while you study FI systems carefully and make up your mind on what you want to do.

That way, if you do not go FI, you still have done things that make your car perform wonderfully. And you can put a few engine mods on for some gains and you do not have to "undo" anything and you are happy you made the right choices.

If you do go FI you have already constructed the platform that is better able to handle all that additional power once you put it on, you do not have to "undo" anything and you are happy you made the right choices. Definitely a "win-win" approach.


Do not be afraid of FI. Just respect it, learn as much as you can about it, then decide for yourself with full knowledge and understanding of what it is, and in particular what it is not.

Cheers.

 

For 10K I would
5K for Greddy Turbo kit
600 Random high flow cats
600 Technosqaure reprogrammed ecu
1000 Tein Basic
300 Stillen swaybars
1000 clutch kit
1500 Greddy FMIC
150 New brake pads

ofcourse that would be only stage I
Stage II would be
Toyo RA1 compound tires on some 285 and 255 tires on 18s
LSD Diff upgrade would be good.

Stage III
Rods
Pistons
Cams

 

I would change your internals, and increase the compression.... and pull a ton more power out of that beast!

new rods/pistons/cams/boared out/sleaved/full plenum upgrade (lower, and crawford plenum upper)/etc.

This would give you some reall nice gains... some z's are going for like 350 to the wheels with this setup... but it is a LOT of power to always be on and going... unlike N20/turbo/supercharger

Peace
-Eric