Can 245/45/18 hold a TT?
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Frisco, TX
Can 245/45/18 hold a TT?
My G35 has the 18" performance wheel package, I love the stock wheel and want to keep a sleeper stock look.
I am wanting to add the Greddy TT system, but will the 245/45/18 rear tires hold the new power?
After talking with jotech I can expect 350 HP at 5 pds and 437 HP at 8 pds, also considering upgrading the stock 5AT with a built stall and value.
Anyone keep 245/45/18 on rear with SC or TT with this power?
I am wanting to add the Greddy TT system, but will the 245/45/18 rear tires hold the new power?
After talking with jotech I can expect 350 HP at 5 pds and 437 HP at 8 pds, also considering upgrading the stock 5AT with a built stall and value.
Anyone keep 245/45/18 on rear with SC or TT with this power?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Frisco, TX
Originally posted by Baumer
you can always go with a little wider tire out back.. i think i can remember a few people running 275/40/18's in the rear with stock wheels.
you can always go with a little wider tire out back.. i think i can remember a few people running 275/40/18's in the rear with stock wheels.
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From: San Diego
Originally posted by TXREFI
275/40/18 Would be a big difference, but is that wide a tire safe on 18 x 8" wheels?
275/40/18 Would be a big difference, but is that wide a tire safe on 18 x 8" wheels?
TXREF1
I have been running the stock wheel and tire set up with the ATI supercharger, no problem. I even ran it on the track at laguna seca, and it was fine. Not optimal. Not as good as a wider set of tires with track spec rubber of course, but it was fine.
If you go to wider rubber, you could comfortably go 245 in front, but then you probably should go 275 in the rear, and that would be better on a 9.5 inch rim.
The stealth look is important to me as well. However, I do want the improvement in performance that wider rubber will bring so, compromising on stealth with the knowledge that custom wheels are not a giveaway of something more ominous under the hood, I am going to do two things.
First, I am switching out to the 19" forged wheel size with 245F/275R in rim widths of 8.5 and 9.5 respectively, for the street driving. This will provide more contact patch for cornering and braking grip. On rubber, I will use the Pilot Sports again, as they have a substantial weight advantage over many other brands. The forged wheels I am using weigh 19.5 pounds, compared to the 24.5 pounds on the stock 18" wheel. I will get an unsprung weight reduction of around 18-20 pounds as well.
Second, for the track runs I am going to stick with the 18" wheel size and go to a track or road race rubber. A set of Nismo wheels will only weigh a little more than 18 pounds. And they will still fit over the StopTech big brake kit, which the stock wheels will not do. There are four brands that I have narrowed it down to on the choice of tire. Hoosier R3S03, Toyo RA-1, Michelin Pilot Sport Cup, and Pirelli P Zero Corsa. I will get an unsprung weight reduction of 24-26 pounds, perhaps a bit more.
The tires stop the car, not the brakes, which stop the wheels. It might sound a bit silly, but truly, you can lock up the wheel easily even with a smaller brake kit. The problem is that then you just slide on a layer of melting rubber, and it takes longer to stop plus costs control of the vehicle. A bigger footprint can give better grip for stopping the vehicle, and more responsive turning without sliding or drift.
Drift of course can be and is an important part of driving some corners (we are talking track now, not autocross), but keeping the wheels hooked up and transmiting power to the ground smoothly will get you through most turns faster, if the factors in play allow it.
Your challenge here is with your boost option. If you go to the 8psi on the turbo, better carefully check the specs on your internals. I think that you will not be able to handle the pressure and will need to go with new cams, pistons, rings rods, springs etc., and probably need to do some port/polish on the head. And then, you have a fuel mixture issue. You might need to run with an octane additive to avoid early detonation at those combined pressures. At around 350-370rwhp on FI the stock internals so far seem to be doing just fine. But much more than that and I would become cautious about the impact on your motor guts.
I have been running the stock wheel and tire set up with the ATI supercharger, no problem. I even ran it on the track at laguna seca, and it was fine. Not optimal. Not as good as a wider set of tires with track spec rubber of course, but it was fine.
If you go to wider rubber, you could comfortably go 245 in front, but then you probably should go 275 in the rear, and that would be better on a 9.5 inch rim.
The stealth look is important to me as well. However, I do want the improvement in performance that wider rubber will bring so, compromising on stealth with the knowledge that custom wheels are not a giveaway of something more ominous under the hood, I am going to do two things.
First, I am switching out to the 19" forged wheel size with 245F/275R in rim widths of 8.5 and 9.5 respectively, for the street driving. This will provide more contact patch for cornering and braking grip. On rubber, I will use the Pilot Sports again, as they have a substantial weight advantage over many other brands. The forged wheels I am using weigh 19.5 pounds, compared to the 24.5 pounds on the stock 18" wheel. I will get an unsprung weight reduction of around 18-20 pounds as well.
Second, for the track runs I am going to stick with the 18" wheel size and go to a track or road race rubber. A set of Nismo wheels will only weigh a little more than 18 pounds. And they will still fit over the StopTech big brake kit, which the stock wheels will not do. There are four brands that I have narrowed it down to on the choice of tire. Hoosier R3S03, Toyo RA-1, Michelin Pilot Sport Cup, and Pirelli P Zero Corsa. I will get an unsprung weight reduction of 24-26 pounds, perhaps a bit more.
The tires stop the car, not the brakes, which stop the wheels. It might sound a bit silly, but truly, you can lock up the wheel easily even with a smaller brake kit. The problem is that then you just slide on a layer of melting rubber, and it takes longer to stop plus costs control of the vehicle. A bigger footprint can give better grip for stopping the vehicle, and more responsive turning without sliding or drift.
Drift of course can be and is an important part of driving some corners (we are talking track now, not autocross), but keeping the wheels hooked up and transmiting power to the ground smoothly will get you through most turns faster, if the factors in play allow it.
Your challenge here is with your boost option. If you go to the 8psi on the turbo, better carefully check the specs on your internals. I think that you will not be able to handle the pressure and will need to go with new cams, pistons, rings rods, springs etc., and probably need to do some port/polish on the head. And then, you have a fuel mixture issue. You might need to run with an octane additive to avoid early detonation at those combined pressures. At around 350-370rwhp on FI the stock internals so far seem to be doing just fine. But much more than that and I would become cautious about the impact on your motor guts.
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