Header install, problem with bolts!?!?!?
So I figured I'd install my headers myself to save some $$$ and get the sense of self accomplishment. So far so good, it's actually not as much of a nightmare as I've read. I started at 9:45pm and by 12:15, I had removed already removed the passenger side header (these 2 1/2 hours include jacking up the car, removing the strut bar, intake, and cats, and two short drink breaks)
Now here's the dilemma.....as I was removing the header nuts, the studs came out as well----with all six nuts! (It looks like the header nuts are crimp/lock nuts.) Should I just thread them back in like bolts, or should I remove the nuts, reinstall the studs, and then put the nuts on after? If I have to reinstall the studs first, what torque should I tighten them to?
I've quit working on my baby tonight, but I could really use some advice by tomorrow. Please help fellas!!!!
Now here's the dilemma.....as I was removing the header nuts, the studs came out as well----with all six nuts! (It looks like the header nuts are crimp/lock nuts.) Should I just thread them back in like bolts, or should I remove the nuts, reinstall the studs, and then put the nuts on after? If I have to reinstall the studs first, what torque should I tighten them to?
I've quit working on my baby tonight, but I could really use some advice by tomorrow. Please help fellas!!!!
As long as we're alking about the same studs and nuts I show 8 that connect the headers to the engine. Below is what the service manual requires for these studs and nuts.
The service manual dosen't list the studs as something you should replace. It says to torque the studs themselves to 12.7-16.7 N*m or 10-12 ft-lb
You need to replace the nuts however.
Then torque them to 28.5-32.4N*m or 21-23ft-lb
Hope that helps I'm just quoting the manual and have no working knowledge of this install. <-Disclaimer
Good luck
-Ben
The service manual dosen't list the studs as something you should replace. It says to torque the studs themselves to 12.7-16.7 N*m or 10-12 ft-lb
You need to replace the nuts however.
Then torque them to 28.5-32.4N*m or 21-23ft-lb
Hope that helps I'm just quoting the manual and have no working knowledge of this install. <-Disclaimer
Good luck
-Ben
Last edited by SDMF; Jan 12, 2005 at 02:43 PM.
I ended up reusing them and going ahead with the install. Everything went great except when it came time to match up the y-pipe with the test pipes. The two were off pretty bad...so much so that I had to forcibly torque on the y-pipe to match up to the test pipes. At one point I actually ended up putting a jack under one side of the y-pipe to get it to line up with the test pipe (I couldn't get the screws through otherwise) Thank God for flex joints (or whatever they are) on the y-pipe.
Since eveything is bolted up under tension, I hope nothing breaks. Oh well, I guess time wil tell.
Other wise I love the header and test pipe combo!!!!
Since eveything is bolted up under tension, I hope nothing breaks. Oh well, I guess time wil tell.
Other wise I love the header and test pipe combo!!!!
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