InsaneChink

iTrader: (8)

Im modifying my air filter and intake and noticed that the position of the intake SUCKS!! Where the hell is the air suppose to channel from?? There is no direct channel to the intake. Right in front of the intake is completely solid. So even if you modify the filter and intake, if the air flow to them sucks, will it really make that much difference? Has anyone done any modifications to get more direct air flow?? Even most Kits out there do not have the opening at the right place. This is one of the kits i found that does have the proper channel...

http://www.jfracing.com/prodimages/6...Body_Kit_4.jpg

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

Wha'cha talkin bout Willis?

There is a duct through the front wall of the engine compartment (radiator core support). Air passes through the front grill then up through the deck that the top fo the bumper is attached to then through that duct into the air box.

InsaneChink

iTrader: (8)

huh Arnold?? What duct are u talkin about? Open your hood right now and you tell me you see a duct that directs air to the main opening of your intake??

InsaneChink

iTrader: (8)

nah man, just checked my hood again....no duct

Roggan

Due to the water digestion all factory intakes needs to suck air from outside of the direct airstream as it will also include water if its raining/wet.

There are many filters which are true "CAI" such as the Injen, AEM and Nismo which connects new piping and put the filter in the grille, the best filter ive found is the K&N Typhoon which has the filter in a carbon box at the stock location but has a ram pipe with a water separation filter which is fitted in the grille.

In the picture you shown the front spoiler has a hole to allow for direct airflow to the stock filter location, dosent have to be a specfic intake/filter on that car.

/Roger

InsaneChink

iTrader: (8)

yea thats what im sayin Roggan, doesnt it just make sense to have direct air flow to the filter location if thats where your filter and intake is located?? For example if i modify with a pop charger which lies in the same location as the stock filter, shouldnt there be direct air flow there to maximize its use??

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

it might help, but even with the varis intake duct, people don't notice anything different much - maybe 2 hp?


air goes in thru the grill, then up, right, up just a little more, then into the intake


keep in mind that once you get going, the air basically presurizes thru there. Not like major pressure, but the flow is there and since the intake is basically sucking in air, that air gets sucked in

InsaneChink

iTrader: (8)

hmm, i see. That pressure theory does make sense sentry... not to be too technical or anything but if the pop-charger is claiming +6HP and you loose 1-2HP secondary to decreased air, you're compromising ~30%. i dunno... maybe im just being too technical

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

the jwt only gains that 6hp up high starting at around 5500 rpms

that's when your engine is working the hardest to suck air in hard and the JWT lets you suck in more air at that point.

For normal driving otherwise, it won't make any difference at all.

The stock intake design isn't bad at all. The JWT is a cheap upgrade. I'm not sure how much it really is worth it, but to me I like the JWT.

Edogg218

iTrader: (3)

The last time I pulled my K&N Drop-in to clean it there were leaves and even a cigarette butt in the "dirty" side of the airbox. I'd say plenty of air is making its way in there.

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

yeah same here when i took off my airbox after a couple months i noticed cigarette butts and leaves in the box too

Roggan

Yes ofcourse if you have a direct opening to allow for more cold air for the engine to suck the more power you will gain (in the engine bay its quite hot), though it wont be any fantastic figures but definatly a little increase, specially at higher speeds as you get a higher airflow (which is not replicated on dyno tests). So basically from a standstill there will hardly be any difference at all, but at higher speeds there will be a difference with a direct "ram" intake setup.

But with that comes the risk of water digestion and possible engine damage due to that, so its the same as with all other engine tuning, you either have something safe with less power or something less safe and producing more power.

Personally i prefer feeling comfortably safe driving in the wet so im not going for a CAI with the filter directly in the airflow but a compromise with a filter in a shielded box in the engine bay and a ram hose connected to the grille with a water separator.

/Roger

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

You're saying that your Z doesn't have the air duct shown in the picture below....

InsaneChink

iTrader: (8)

perfect picture, thats exactly what im talking about. There is no direct air channel that goes into that air duct from the outside...

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

As I stated before, air passes through the front grill to feed that air duct.

If you look at the picture and on your Z, there is a gap between that duct and where the bumper ends. If you look down that opening, you'll see that it is open all the way down to the bottom engine cover. That big open volume you see toward the left is the area behind the front grill and in front of the radiator.

Once you get moving, air comes across the grill and pressurizes that volume. The air flows across the radiator as well as up through the opening you're looking down. From there it enters the air duct and your intake.

BTW, I have monitored the air temperature at the MAF and compared it to the ambient temperature measured right below the hood latch (in that big volume) and at highway speeds, there is only about a 5° rise. Believe me when I tell you that fresh air IS getting into your intake.

imntcrzy

iTrader: (4)

just get an air duct like varis