Motordyne Iso Thermal Plenum Spacers
10-16-2005, 04:42 PM
#242
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Tony, I have just install the spacer over the weekend. I now have a deeper exhaust tone and maybe some power gain. The part that I didn't quite understand is why we need to disconnect the -ve lead in the battery? All my memory settings are now gone and I have to re-program them. Please shed some light on the subject. Thanks.
10-16-2005, 05:07 PM
#243
HI Oggie,
Yes, things like the radio station presets will need to be reprogramed, but disconnecting the battery negative is a prudent safety precaution.
When unplugging the TB harness, most of the time it isn't a problem. But sometimes it can cause a check engine light and require a Idle relearn procedure. Having to dig through the service manual and getting the reset procedure right can be a real pain.
Disconnecting the battery negative is a good way to help insure you don't have to go through the idle relearn procedure.
As far as power gain is concerned, even if you don't feel it, its definitly there. About 11-13 HP in the top end. When installed and properly run on a dyno, it shows the same results every time.
Yes, things like the radio station presets will need to be reprogramed, but disconnecting the battery negative is a prudent safety precaution.
When unplugging the TB harness, most of the time it isn't a problem. But sometimes it can cause a check engine light and require a Idle relearn procedure. Having to dig through the service manual and getting the reset procedure right can be a real pain.
Disconnecting the battery negative is a good way to help insure you don't have to go through the idle relearn procedure.
As far as power gain is concerned, even if you don't feel it, its definitly there. About 11-13 HP in the top end. When installed and properly run on a dyno, it shows the same results every time.
10-16-2005, 05:10 PM
#244
Nissan generally recommends disconnecting the battery when doing any repairs on the car, especially if you're going to be unplugging some of the sensors. If you don't disconnect the battery and unplug the throttle body, you will need to recalibrate the throttle position sensor. That's a lot more trouble than reprogramming the radio.
10-16-2005, 09:06 PM
#246
Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
Nissan generally recommends disconnecting the battery when doing any repairs on the car, especially if you're going to be unplugging some of the sensors. If you don't disconnect the battery and unplug the throttle body, you will need to recalibrate the throttle position sensor. That's a lot more trouble than reprogramming the radio.
10-17-2005, 01:37 AM
#247
Ooops, I guess I missed that part about disconnecting the neg battery. She seems to be running fine without any CEL coming on. I don't really notice any increase in the performance after driving her today. 
I thought that I would feel something like when I first installed the spacers several months ago.
I thought that I would feel something like when I first installed the spacers several months ago.
10-17-2005, 05:04 AM
#248
Originally Posted by BlueDragonZ
Ooops, I guess I missed that part about disconnecting the neg battery. She seems to be running fine without any CEL coming on. I don't really notice any increase in the performance after driving her today. I thought that I would feel something like when I first installed the spacers several months ago.
I thought that I would feel something like when I first installed the spacers several months ago.
10-17-2005, 11:11 AM
#250
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Originally Posted by BlueDragonZ
Ooops, I guess I missed that part about disconnecting the neg battery. She seems to be running fine without any CEL coming on. I don't really notice any increase in the performance after driving her today. I thought that I would feel something like when I first installed the spacers several months ago.
I thought that I would feel something like when I first installed the spacers several months ago.But after about an hour of driving and you gun it at a light to pass the guy next to you you go WOW~!
10-18-2005, 07:39 PM
#252
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Hey Tony! I was out of town this weekend when those plenum support studs came so I didn't get to install 'em until today! (I got too antsy and installed the gasket 2-3 days after I picked them up, but didn't put the old aluminum support studs back on because the old adhesive had disintegrated and it was a pain to make sure they were on the bolts.) I only drove the car from glendale to pasadena and back anyway... 
The new plastic studs that the bolts snap into are great! The thermal gasket and CCV are unbelievable!! I'm waiting for a hotter day to get post-install readings because the pre-install readings were done on 95+ şF days so I'll get you those deltas hopefully (c'mon sunshine!!!) this week.
Thanks for another awesome product!!
The new plastic studs that the bolts snap into are great! The thermal gasket and CCV are unbelievable!! I'm waiting for a hotter day to get post-install readings because the pre-install readings were done on 95+ şF days so I'll get you those deltas hopefully (c'mon sunshine!!!) this week.
Thanks for another awesome product!!
10-19-2005, 08:51 AM
#253
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Originally Posted by Eldy
...but didn't put the old aluminum support studs back on because the old adhesive had disintegrated...
...The new plastic studs that the bolts snap into are great!
...The new plastic studs that the bolts snap into are great!
I was an early customer with the 3/8" spacer, and I agree that the new plastic studs are much better.
Much better indeed.
When I took off the upper plenum to install the new ISO gasket, I also noticed the adhesive failing. It probably doesn't matter if you don't take the upper plenum off; I'm sure they'll stay in place 'cause the bolts are torqued down. But if you do take off the upper plenum, you'll notice the adhesive. The new design w/o adhesive is great!
10-22-2005, 06:02 AM
#255
Originally Posted by zzz350
sorry guys, did the GB start yet? I couldn't hang with reading all 13 pages in this thread. Help, in need of more power!
https://my350z.com/forum/questionable-posts/144026-motordyne-iso-thermal-plenum-spacer-gb.html
Check the bottom of the first post by Hydrazine. Ends October 8th.
12-20-2005, 07:44 PM
#256
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It would seem to me that additional gains would come from not heating the TB at all - even on the Polarized Copper TB Heater - (except when it's really cold) since all the air passes right through it and that's just another opportunity for heat soak, is it not?
Or is the amount of heat soak negligible?
(Car is in shop; taking v4 off. Interested in pkg. purchase).
Or is the amount of heat soak negligible?
(Car is in shop; taking v4 off. Interested in pkg. purchase).
12-20-2005, 08:04 PM
#257
There will be some amount of heat transfer but I would say it is negligible relative to a heat soaked upper and lower collector.
The TB housing is essentially a short length of tubing with a very smooth bore, so the heat transfer won't amount to much. The upper and lower collectors OTOH are a very different story. They have much more surface area due to the much larger size, a very complex shape providing much more contact area, and a rough sand cast finish. The air flowing through the runners is also going to be very turbulent because of the nature of the pulsed flow.
So yes, a heated TB will transfer a small amount of heat but its essentially negligible compared to everything else that will no longer be burning hot with air flowing through it.
OTOH, the Copper is a big plus if you are driving in very cold weather. The reason being that unlike the regular Iso Thermal, you are not required to heat the entire plenum when the temperature drops below 55-45 deg F. So it allows you to take advantage of all the cold air you are driving in.
Its also a good trade when you consider the convience factor. Its a total plug and play solution. No switching of valves based on weather conditions.
If you live in So Cal, Hawaii or Florida it never gets cold enough to freeze anything, but just about anywhere else in the country the Copper is generally a better option.
Tony
The TB housing is essentially a short length of tubing with a very smooth bore, so the heat transfer won't amount to much. The upper and lower collectors OTOH are a very different story. They have much more surface area due to the much larger size, a very complex shape providing much more contact area, and a rough sand cast finish. The air flowing through the runners is also going to be very turbulent because of the nature of the pulsed flow.
So yes, a heated TB will transfer a small amount of heat but its essentially negligible compared to everything else that will no longer be burning hot with air flowing through it.
OTOH, the Copper is a big plus if you are driving in very cold weather. The reason being that unlike the regular Iso Thermal, you are not required to heat the entire plenum when the temperature drops below 55-45 deg F. So it allows you to take advantage of all the cold air you are driving in.
Its also a good trade when you consider the convience factor. Its a total plug and play solution. No switching of valves based on weather conditions.
If you live in So Cal, Hawaii or Florida it never gets cold enough to freeze anything, but just about anywhere else in the country the Copper is generally a better option.
Tony
12-20-2005, 11:02 PM
#258
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Originally Posted by Hydrazine
There will be some amount of heat transfer but I would say it is negligible relative to a heat soaked upper and lower collector.
The TB housing is essentially a short length of tubing with a very smooth bore, so the heat transfer won't amount to much. The upper and lower collectors OTOH are a very different story. They have much more surface area due to the much larger size, a very complex shape providing much more contact area, and a rough sand cast finish. The air flowing through the runners is also going to be very turbulent because of the nature of the pulsed flow.
So yes, a heated TB will transfer a small amount of heat but its essentially negligible compared to everything else that will no longer be burning hot with air flowing through it.
OTOH, the Copper is a big plus if you are driving in very cold weather. The reason being that unlike the regular Iso Thermal, you are not required to heat the entire plenum when the temperature drops below 55-45 deg F. So it allows you to take advantage of all the cold air you are driving in.
Its also a good trade when you consider the convience factor. Its a total plug and play solution. No switching of valves based on weather conditions.
If you live in So Cal, Hawaii or Florida it never gets cold enough to freeze anything, but just about anywhere else in the country the Copper is generally a better option.
Tony
The TB housing is essentially a short length of tubing with a very smooth bore, so the heat transfer won't amount to much. The upper and lower collectors OTOH are a very different story. They have much more surface area due to the much larger size, a very complex shape providing much more contact area, and a rough sand cast finish. The air flowing through the runners is also going to be very turbulent because of the nature of the pulsed flow.
So yes, a heated TB will transfer a small amount of heat but its essentially negligible compared to everything else that will no longer be burning hot with air flowing through it.
OTOH, the Copper is a big plus if you are driving in very cold weather. The reason being that unlike the regular Iso Thermal, you are not required to heat the entire plenum when the temperature drops below 55-45 deg F. So it allows you to take advantage of all the cold air you are driving in.
Its also a good trade when you consider the convience factor. Its a total plug and play solution. No switching of valves based on weather conditions.
If you live in So Cal, Hawaii or Florida it never gets cold enough to freeze anything, but just about anywhere else in the country the Copper is generally a better option.
Tony
I live in AL where 3/4 or more of the time it's about as hot as FL but for a few months between Dec. & April we have some freezing and sub-freezing temp's to contend with where icing could be a problem.
Sounds like if I want to have my heat-soak cake and eat it too, I could do as another post mentioned and use the CCV valve WITH the Copper, so that during the long hot stretch of months of hot weather I could shut off the small amount of heat going to the TB via the Copper for that last extra ounce 'o power, then at the beginning of the few months of cold temp's I could switch the CCV to "on" and let the Copper take over and do it's thing so I won't have to worry about freezing my TB, right?
(Please excuse any redundancies but I have to figure all this out and be clear on it and make a decision by tomorrow!)
