Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

Looks good.
Hook up a Techtom or other OBDII scanner to really know whats happening to the inlet temps.

AmyCroft

iTrader: (3)

There is a low cost Compu-Nurse digital Thermometer.. Run's on Clock Batteries. We get them from a PC vendor. The display is an LCD , it has about a 5 foot lead. the sensor is a Film device, it can be taped / glued down to the metal you want to test. They run about 4 - 5 dollar USD.

Search Google Compunurse - Cheap - not an Innovated Quality but better than a turkey baster Thermo.. Ha !

Cheers Amy -

black350

iTrader: (5)

Hydrazine, I pm'ed you a question.

Z BOY

iTrader: (41)

thanx. i'll try that.

DaveO

Please note the IAT Sensor is located in the Mass Air Flow Sensor housing well ahead of the throttle body and upper collector (plenum). Temperature measurements obtained at this point reflect a combination of ambient air and underhood hot air the engine is drawing in... not collector temperatures. Also, it does not accurately reflect the amount of heat that is transfered to the intake air duct between the MAF Sensor and throttle body.

BluZee

Ill have to do that. I have access to a Nissan Consult II.

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

That's a great picture of the temp sensor Dave. It goes to show how hot it is under that hood with all the hot air washing around.

Like you have always said. Thats the stuff that kills performance. (Even if it isn't accounted for on a open hood dyno)

To all,
Do what ever you can to keep that hot air from getting into your Popchargers or similar intakes. Hot air (at that temperature) hits performance big time!

I've seen that nearly all the Turbo and SC systems have intakes in the open engine compartment. If you can, rerout the air filter somewhere out of the engine compartment where it can get fresh air. Use large diameter silicone tubing if you have to.

Wraping your intakes like Dave did is also quite helpfull. If you could Iso therm your plenum and thermal wrap the intake system, do it. Your car will be happy you did.

NJDAN

iTrader: (17)

Installed my 5/16 spacer tonight, first i will tell you I had no problems with a GT Spec strut bar using the supplied spacers and the hood closes fine, now tomorrow when i can drive it around i will post if I feel any difference. Tony thanks again.

alininger2001

iTrader: (1)

Pleas don't be mad at me for asking this question, but I have an AAM angled spacer on my car, do you have an iso thermal kit that would work with it, if you do I will order one.

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

The thermal gasket goes under the lower plenum so it doesn't have anything to do with whatever spacer your using, or even if you're not using a spacer at all. Same is true of the coolant bypass.

The spacers for the 6 posts probably won't work because of the taper. I have the AAM tapered spacer and wasn't planning on using the 6 post spacers anyway. There's nothing there already, right? If you really want to use them, it might be possible to grind them down to fit.

alininger2001

iTrader: (1)

What effect does the 6 posts have on the intake temps? Would it make much of a difference to leave them out?

alininger2001

iTrader: (1)

It appears those spacers are for increased structural integrity without transferring heat. Leaving them out should not increase temps? Did it get that right?

DavesZ#3

iTrader: (26)

I believe you are correct. With a spacer in place, the posts are not touching so there is no heat transferred other than thru the bolts. It can help the structural integrity but the stock plenum is pretty strong. The posts almost seem redundent.

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

+1. Its no problem at all. The Iso Thermal upgrade will work with the AAM spacer but the Motordyne internal supports won't fit. Structurally, your plenum will be unchanged.

The Aramid gasket will raise your entire plenum assembly just under 1/16". You might want to check the strut bar clearance gap on your current set up to make sure the extra 1/16" can be accomodated.


I'm setting up the GB now!

undrgnd

iTrader: (2)

There have been numerous questions posed here, and all were answered except the two on dynos. I'm sure it's just an oversight. Has there been any dynamometer-based testing been performed on any of this material prior to offering them for sale? Please post the conditions and results/curves. Thanks

sands

iTrader: (3)

Do you have to bleed the cooling system when you install the CCV? What about the Polarized Copper TB heater?

mgk65

iTrader: (1)

Tony:

I purchased the 1/4" motordyne spacer in the last group buy and found it worked pretty good, based my my butt dyno.

Can you tell us how much more improvement the isothermal gasket and isothermal TB would have in approximate HP?

thank you.

lightner22

iTrader: (1)

This is what I'd like to know too. I still can't find install guide for the copper TB heater. It doesn't look like you do with the ccv though.

Z BOY

iTrader: (41)

NO

alininger2001

iTrader: (1)

Placed an order, will post results when I install it. I have been Looking for something like this my plenum gets hot here in texas, would it help to make a thermal gasket in between the lower plenum and upper plenum as well?