thegr8one99

[QUOTE=G35_TX]Actually the INCH pound TQ wrench is required! Not a Foot LB. The foot lb are $25 bucks. You need one that goes BELOW 100 inch LB. And the only place that has one is Sears and they are $70-80 bucks. It is a must trust me.

Damn thats kind of a lot for something I'm only gonna use once. I'll probably just use my hands and keep checking for leaks unless I can find one cheaper. If I do find one, does it have to be 3/8 or 1/2 ???

Beeker

iTrader: (5)

Try this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2696

You may have a Harborfreight near you. They don't have any stores in the New England area so I ordered it online.

You really should use a torque wrench. The more precise you are on each screw the less chance of a leak. Also, don't forget you are using steel screws in aluminum. Becareful or you may strip the threads. 100 inch lbs is not very much.

Order the tourque wrench and do it right. The week wait for the wrench to arrive is worth it. Besides, you can never have too many tools. You will use the torque wrench again at some point in the future.

Daytona350Texas

iTrader: (4)

o i finished it yesterday guys all good no leaks, no need for anymore advice and i pulled an SRT4 that beat me by about 3 cars (running 16psi) and last night with only test pipes, pulley, spacer, JWT intake... i pulled him by 2 cars, he was running 14psi

InsaneChink

iTrader: (8)

woe woe woe... you need a Gasket on each side of the spacer and not just on top like the instructions?? Are you guys sure??? I just have the gasket on the top of the spacer where the upper plenum connects... i dont have any issues though..

InsaneChink

iTrader: (8)

f@CK, just verified w/ Tony. Stock Gasket goes on in between the lower plenum and spacer and provided gasket goes on top of spacer and upper plenum as stated. I should have a huge leak without that gasket shouldnt i?? Im not complaning since everything is ok, but maybe ill feel more power with the proper gasket in place... ill let you guys know....

Beeker

iTrader: (5)

Odds are you have a gasket there and don't know it. When you removed the upper plenum to install the spacer the original gasket would have been on the lower plenum. The spacer would sit on that and the gasket that came with the spacer would sit on top of the spacer.

I really doubt you don't have a gasket in between the spacer and lower plenum without a leak. I guess anything is possible but very unlikely.

BTW, you would have any extra gasket hanging around if you, in fact, didn't use both.

gto88

I just installed my 5/16" spacer yesterday.
I didn't use torque ranch, I just tried my best to guess the force when I tighten
the bolts.
Luckily, it went well.
Just one question, the package i got have 8 5/16" strut bar spacers, I must
use them to prevent the strut bar to hit engine manifold, since the manifold is raised 5/16" with the spacer.
But, it seems the strut bar is too high for the hood.
I meant the hood is closed fine, but it seems bent right on top of the strut bar.
Anyone has this feeling of the claerance of hood.

DG35Cpe

iTrader: (1)

i just bought a torque wrench from sears and returned it when i was done. i didnt want to mess around with overtightening or having a leak.

RP-350Z

GTO88,

I had the same problem you had. I used the 8 spacers to raise my strut bar and the hood would bulge. I also have the 5/16" spacer. So I just took the spacers off and I have clearance from the plenum and my hood doesn't bulge either.

Ryan

gto88

Hi Ryan,

But, if I take out all 8 spacer, the strut bar is amost touching plenum, isn't it.

RP-350Z

gto88,

Correct, you will be close to the plenum. One thing you could try if you want is to use just the washers 1 for each bolt and nut and that will give you a little more clearance. But even when I installed the strut bar with the washers (1 for each bolt and nut) the passenger side of my hood would stick up slightly.

Ryan

03track

iTrader: (2)

so basically they're claim of "hood clearance" with this spacer is BS?

this is upsetting to me

can someone else chime in?

Beeker

iTrader: (5)

I'm having the same problem. I installed two iso thermal gaskets when I added the spacer. I decided to remove one of the thermal gaskets to see if that gives me a little more clearance. I couldn't seperate the two gaskets that were on the car so Tony from Motordyne is sending me a new gasket.
I hope using only one thermal gasket will give me the extra clearance I need so the hood will close flush with the quarter panels. Mine doesn't bulge that bad. Just enough to bother me. If I lower the strut bar so the hood doesn't bulge then the strut bar rubs the plenum every once and awhile. Using only one thermal gasket should give me about 1/16th inch more clearance between the strut bar and plenum. I hope that will allow me to lower the bar just enough so the hood doesn't bulge and the bar doesn't rub the plenum. If it still bulges then I don't know what to try next. I could try to live with it but my OCD won't allow it!!!

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

With hundreds and hundreds of 350Z installs, the spacer and strutbar clears everything on the vast majority with no issues, but occasionally the tolerance stack up of the car can make it tight. Its car to car variation. But even then, they always fit.

Some people have been able put a 1/2" spacer under their stock strut bar, but their car is on the low side of the "bell curve" tolerance stack.

SpeedRcr

iTrader: (5)

i put in my spacer with 2 gaskets...

DOHC

No, it is not BS. Mine fit perfectly with the isothermal gasket: 5/16" plenum spacer and the eight aluminum bar spacers. No rubbing on the hood or the plenum.

03track

iTrader: (2)

okay, good to know.....thanks.

Beeker

iTrader: (5)

I have a roadster. Maybe they have slightly different hoods???

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

It may be possible, but I doubt it. Different hoods would only drive up their cost.

Unfortunatly, I think it comes down to simple car to car variation. It makes it harder to define the envelope limits but not impossible.