I just installed my spacer yesterday, things went fine. I started the car and all was good. Took her for a test drive and was awed by the results. It was fantastic. However after the car warms up and you cut it off and try to start it back it wont idle the engine just dies. So I did a full disassemble today and found nothing wrong. The oil filler bonnet wasn't in the way, the gasket seemed just fine. One thing I did notice when disassembling today was one of the 6 bolts on top of the plenum was fairly loose. However after reinstalling everything and double and tripple checking that all my hoses were installed back I began to take it for another test drive, however again, after the car warms up and you try to start it again, it wont idle unless you rev it up right after you start it then it will idle around 700 - 750 rpm. I e-mailed Motordyne earlier this morning but have not had a reply yet. I was hoping someone could give me some advise.

Thanks

Ryan

 

Did you disconnect the battery before you disconnected the throttle body? If you didn't then you may have to recalibrate the throttle body. There is a website that explains how to do it. I can't remember what site but if you search for check engine light reset procedure you may find the link. It was on a website that had the pedal reset method for clearing a CEL.

 

Beeker, yea I disconnected the - battery terminal before I removed the plug. An update, after letting the engine cool down for several hours I was able to retorque bolts 1 - 6 but the other bolts around the plenum were fine and didn't need to be retorqued.

Ryan

 

I did my 5/16" spacer this last weekend and did not see the same problems you are having. Yet, I didn't have to disconnect the TB to do it (had a nice helper to hold the plenum while I installed the spacer). I would check the M.A. Sensor.

 

Thanks for all the help, please keep it coming. I am gonna let the engine cool down a bit and disassemble it again and me and my father are going to take a look to make sure the gasket is ok ect. Wierd thing is the car will idle fine after I rev the engine a bit.

Thanks

Ryan

 

I am trying to find the procedure to reset the throttle body. The search engine isn't working too well at the moment.


Found it!

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....=THROTTLE+BODY

Try that and see if that fixed the problem. Post your results.

 

Just a thought.... the top six bolts are not in the right slots?? three are longer and three shorter....

 

I think if there was a leak you would be able to hear it. Maybe not but every post I've read about a spacer install problem that was related to leak, the leak was audible at idle with the hood open. A leak that is causing an idle problem, I would think, would be audible. It would sound like a vacuum leak.

 

I just took off the spacer and reinstalled w/o it. Same problem SO... I'm going to reset the throttle body. I will keep yall updated. Thanks a bunch!

Ryan

 

I'm going to try resetting the ECU for 24 hours. I don't know if that will do anything for me or not. This is pretty frustrating. It makes no sense.

Ryan

 

its the throttle body...make sure you have the gasket in the right spot and that its tight...mine did that and i was about to do what you did before i checked the throttle body...after you do that do the throttle body idle reset setup

 

Make sure your bolts are in the correct holes. If they aren't you wont get the proper seal on the plenum and it will cause it to sputter. They should be different lengths for the holes. Do you have to remove any bolts from under the plenum cover. Make sure they are all tight. Ive seen that happen before where the bolt wasn't in the right hole and not sealing enough.

 

SpeedRcr,

What do you mean by "check the throttle body." BTW, I just got the basic 5/16" spacer w/o the ISO thermal gasket.

Ryan

 

Hi Ryan,

It sounds like either a leak or needs a TB reset.
To check for a leak, move your hand around the circumference of the sealing surfaces. If you hear a change in sound as you move your hand over a potential leak spot, it will help you isolate the location. You can also try spraying carburator cleaner on that same spot for verification of a potential leak. Also be sure to check all the hoses are secure on both ends.

Also try a TB idle relearning procedure and let me know what you find.
99.999% of the time, idle problems are caused by something really simple.

Tony

 

I'm anxious to do a TB reset b/c I believe that's the problem. Is it necessary to do an ECU reset? If so I need to wait another 7 hours b/4 the 24 hour reset period is over.

I was talkin to my sister and she said the same thing happened to her Murrano when her alternator died and they also had to replace her battery, well she had to bring it back into them and on the service sheet they wrote that they had to reprogram the computer. Which is why I think the only problem is that I need to do a TB reset.

Ryan

 

You don't need to wait 24 hours. Just do a manual reset. Search, you'll find how to do it. Then do the throttle body reset procedure.

 

http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm

 

I can't thank yall enough for your help. I'm still out of luck. I reset the ECU, I tried resetting the idle air volume learning (throttle position learning). However when I get to step 10 where you have to start it and let it idle for 20 seconds it just wont idle.

I think I'm going to just take it to Nissan and get them to figure it out. I hear no leaks hoses are hooked up properly on both ends and all bolts and washers for the plenum were used. I also used the 4 long bolts on the middle back of the plenum and the three medium bolts on the bottom and all around the plenum I used the short bolts. The gasket is seated properly with no kinks and I removed the rubber oil bonnet for safe measure. Anyway, thanks again for all yalls help I really appreciate it. I'll let you know what happens after I bring it to Nissan.

Ryan

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

 

While it may not apply here, when using the MD kit with the plastic isothermal spacers on the six interior bolts - after you have tightened all bolts to 100 in-lbs, go back and re-tighten the center six again. I found they would take another 1/8 turn to get back to 100 in-lbs and they may cause a leak if not re-tightened.


.

 

PROBLEM SOLVED

I took my car to Nissan and they checked it out and after putting it on the computer nothing came up wrong so they said it could be carbon buildup in the throttle body. Sure enough that's what it was. They cleaned the throttle body out and it purrs just fine!

Thank you Tony for your support, you sell a great product and back it up with excellent technical support.

Ryan