Instructions For Test Pipe Installation!!
Can anyone please give me instructions on how to install test pipes?
I tried searching it but couldnt find any info that would help.
I have a G35 coupe 6mt-dont know if installation will be different than 350z.
BUT PLZ HELP!!!!!
I tried searching it but couldnt find any info that would help.
I have a G35 coupe 6mt-dont know if installation will be different than 350z.
BUT PLZ HELP!!!!!
Its fairly simple.
-open beer bottle
-unbolt the OEM cats at the header and y-pipe (5 screws and/or nuts)
-unbolt from the cat support thing(1 screw)
-throw away 1st beer bottle and open a 2nd one
-unscrew O2 sensor making sure not to damage it
-reverse this for installing TP, except dont install the screw to the support thing. Only use the support if its part of the TP design or with a HFC design.
-throw away 2nd beer and open yet another one
The screws/nuts at the header side is a biotch to get to with a ratchet. A ratcheting wrench is highly recommended if I remember correctly.
Maybe this will help. Had to throw in a little humor!!
-open beer bottle
-unbolt the OEM cats at the header and y-pipe (5 screws and/or nuts)
-unbolt from the cat support thing(1 screw)
-throw away 1st beer bottle and open a 2nd one
-unscrew O2 sensor making sure not to damage it
-reverse this for installing TP, except dont install the screw to the support thing. Only use the support if its part of the TP design or with a HFC design.
-throw away 2nd beer and open yet another one
The screws/nuts at the header side is a biotch to get to with a ratchet. A ratcheting wrench is highly recommended if I remember correctly.
Maybe this will help. Had to throw in a little humor!!
if you just do a search on "test pipe install" you should come up with numerous posts on the subject, however you may have to read through a lot of it. but here is some info to help.
Items needed
-ramps or jack stands
-wheel chocks
-anti-seize compound (to put on bolts for easy removal later)
- 7/8 or 22mm O2 wrench/socket (for O2 sensors) or crescent wrench
-20” socket extension
-socket elbow/joint
-new gaskets if the original ones are in poor condition (otherwise just clean them)
-14 mm wrench (for cat bolt nut)
-6 shims/washers for v-brace and rear cross-brace (to alleviate movement of cats when moving/bottoming out and rubbing)
-10 ss 10x20mm nuts
-10 ss 10 mm bolts
-10 ss 10 mm lock washers
-WD40 (to help loosen the bolts)
Hints
-may need to use a hammer/mallet to create space between heat shield and pipe
-to loosen the header to cat bolts you need to use your extensions and elbows and lower them from above the engine bay and have a friend beneath the car guide the socket to the bolt
Items needed
-ramps or jack stands
-wheel chocks
-anti-seize compound (to put on bolts for easy removal later)
- 7/8 or 22mm O2 wrench/socket (for O2 sensors) or crescent wrench
-20” socket extension
-socket elbow/joint
-new gaskets if the original ones are in poor condition (otherwise just clean them)
-14 mm wrench (for cat bolt nut)
-6 shims/washers for v-brace and rear cross-brace (to alleviate movement of cats when moving/bottoming out and rubbing)
-10 ss 10x20mm nuts
-10 ss 10 mm bolts
-10 ss 10 mm lock washers
-WD40 (to help loosen the bolts)
Hints
-may need to use a hammer/mallet to create space between heat shield and pipe
-to loosen the header to cat bolts you need to use your extensions and elbows and lower them from above the engine bay and have a friend beneath the car guide the socket to the bolt
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Its just a 20" extension you can buy for your socket to make it longer. You will need two of them to get it done right. I just went to Sears, used them, and returned them the next day.
Heres a pic of a 1/2" drive 20" extension:
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/skt40163.html
Heres a pic of a 1/2" drive 20" extension:
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/skt40163.html
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Originally Posted by dave079
Its just a 20" extension you can buy for your socket to make it longer. You will need two of them to get it done right. I just went to Sears, used them, and returned them the next day.
Heres a pic of a 1/2" drive 20" extension:
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/skt40163.html
Heres a pic of a 1/2" drive 20" extension:
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/skt40163.html
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Originally Posted by HockeyZ39
Why would you need 2? I did my test pipe install from completely under the car. Was a HUGE pain in the a$$, and now I have an exhaust leak from the test pipes b/c I couldn’t get them tight enough. I am planning to take them off and put some exhaust sealer compound and going from the top of the engine to make sure there are no more leaks
Originally Posted by jaslui119
Haha..Thanks Guys.>!
what are some tools that i need?
20" extention? can you elaborate on that? thanks!
what are some tools that i need?
20" extention? can you elaborate on that? thanks!
If you have to ask questions like this you should not even be attempting to do this on your own.
Originally Posted by dave079
Because one wasnt long enough to be able to get that bolt that connects the test pipe to the top of the header. Trust me it makes it easier doing those top bolts from the top of the engine bay.
To minimize the chance of exhaust leaks, use this product (the Ultra Copper) on the testpipe/HFC-header flange.
http://www.caswellplating.com/permat...ketmakers.html
(PERMATEX® ULTRA COPPER® Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker)
http://www.caswellplating.com/permat...ketmakers.html
(PERMATEX® ULTRA COPPER® Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker)
Originally Posted by guitman32
To minimize the chance of exhaust leaks, use this product (the Ultra Copper) on the testpipe/HFC-header flange.
http://www.caswellplating.com/permat...ketmakers.html
(PERMATEX® ULTRA COPPER® Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker)
http://www.caswellplating.com/permat...ketmakers.html
(PERMATEX® ULTRA COPPER® Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker)
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Originally Posted by HockeyZ39
Can you get the bolts tight enough through two 20" extensions!? Seems like it would be very flimsy even with some one holding it from below.
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