DNX exhaust SOUND CLIPS & Pics
04-02-2006 | 12:01 PM
#42
Originally Posted by rythex
The exhaust sounds fine.. maybe we're losing something by the low quality clips lol.
04-03-2006 | 04:33 AM
#43
you guys that are thinking hmmmz the exhaust sound good... am I missing something...? you guys really arent, it is a great sounding exhaust at a great price and the quality is actually not bad at all. i actually think for 160 your getting an AMAZING quality exhaust that with some slight adjustments fits in very nicely. its just that some people like quietness of nismo or borla or stillen, and some poeple just want a more aggressive note (which is actually what I like) that tells people your here and that makes the car sound more aggressive. i think there are only like 8 of these left for sale... if anyone is interested pm me and ill point you in the right direction.
04-03-2006 | 05:17 AM
#44
Originally Posted by bhk1004
you guys that are thinking hmmmz the exhaust sound good... am I missing something...? you guys really arent, it is a great sounding exhaust at a great price and the quality is actually not bad at all. i actually think for 160 your getting an AMAZING quality exhaust that with some slight adjustments fits in very nicely. its just that some people like quietness of nismo or borla or stillen, and some poeple just want a more aggressive note (which is actually what I like) that tells people your here and that makes the car sound more aggressive. i think there are only like 8 of these left for sale... if anyone is interested pm me and ill point you in the right direction.
04-03-2006 | 08:27 AM
#46
Originally Posted by jmaldonado
Well I decided to keep it. For $160 shipped you cant beat it. Pm for more info if you want one. Thanks for all your help, and suggestions.
glad to see you got your panties unwadded.
ups is delivering mine today! hopefully ill get it installed this weekend. Ill be sure to get some in car/drive buy video.
04-03-2006 | 08:30 AM
#47
Originally Posted by CUxtopher
glad to see you got your panties unwadded.
ups is delivering mine today! hopefully ill get it installed this weekend. Ill be sure to get some in car/drive buy video.
ups is delivering mine today! hopefully ill get it installed this weekend. Ill be sure to get some in car/drive buy video.
04-03-2006 | 08:36 AM
#48
well, i have test pipes and a jic y pipe and a few intake mods. so mine might sound a bit different and be much much louder.
IIRC, you have a stock intake/exhaust except for the dnx system?
IIRC, you have a stock intake/exhaust except for the dnx system?
04-03-2006 | 08:39 AM
#49
Originally Posted by CUxtopher
well, i have test pipes and a jic y pipe and a few intake mods. so mine might sound a bit different and be much much louder.
IIRC, you have a stock intake/exhaust except for the dnx system?
IIRC, you have a stock intake/exhaust except for the dnx system?
Yours might be a little louder
Get us some clips when it goes on.
04-03-2006 | 03:18 PM
#51
just got done installing mine.
LOUD AS ****!
but itll stay on. Probably doesnt help that i dont have an interior. Looking into getting some dynamat or sound deadening.
Install was simple, came with all the necessary hardware. I found it easier to take the hangars of the car and then remount onto new exhaust and put back on.
review, nice exhaust. Looks good and isnt too heavy. Works with hotchkis sway bar. Everything fit nicely and was easy to install. It sounds so good at idle and 3500 rom and above. Btw idle and 3k its the worst! wot is amazing too. Going to have sound clips on saturday.
California guys need not apply. youll get busted so easy.
LOUD AS ****!
but itll stay on. Probably doesnt help that i dont have an interior. Looking into getting some dynamat or sound deadening.
Install was simple, came with all the necessary hardware. I found it easier to take the hangars of the car and then remount onto new exhaust and put back on.
review, nice exhaust. Looks good and isnt too heavy. Works with hotchkis sway bar. Everything fit nicely and was easy to install. It sounds so good at idle and 3500 rom and above. Btw idle and 3k its the worst! wot is amazing too. Going to have sound clips on saturday.
California guys need not apply. youll get busted so easy.
04-03-2006 | 03:40 PM
#52
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
I have heard this system and it is super loud. I guess it would be OK if you barely drive your car or don't mind the noise.
FYI, just keep an eye on the mufflers as some of the cheaper versions tend to burnout over time.
FYI, just keep an eye on the mufflers as some of the cheaper versions tend to burnout over time.
04-03-2006 | 05:24 PM
#53
was asked before if I had this installed, I purchased this exhaust for a close friend and i have driven her car and I love it. i love loud exhausts and I honestly doubt this is anywhere NEAR loud enough to lose hearing over. i love the note and me and my friend both have sound systems and you cant hear the exhaust over it so it doesnt bother either of us.
RnRRacing: Lets pretend that the mufflers burn out... i honestly dont see why that would happen but lets pretend it does, we can buy 4 of these and switch it out every year and still not hit the cost of the normal exhausts that are out for the Z. i have a borla exhaust that is TOP notch in everyones book yet ive had problems with it and hangers breaking off. sorry but the more expensive exhausts arent problem free.
RnRRacing: Lets pretend that the mufflers burn out... i honestly dont see why that would happen but lets pretend it does, we can buy 4 of these and switch it out every year and still not hit the cost of the normal exhausts that are out for the Z. i have a borla exhaust that is TOP notch in everyones book yet ive had problems with it and hangers breaking off. sorry but the more expensive exhausts arent problem free.
04-05-2006 | 06:41 AM
#56
a how to: its easy.
Youll need a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm socket. Also, i used a 12mm deep. Extensions up to 12 inches may be needed, theyll makes it 10x easier.
(i say may be needed, i used them but didnt know if they were required or not)
My method of removal was to unbolt the mid pipe and remove the hangers from the car. Thus, allowing the entire exhaust to come out in one piece. I dont know if there is any other way.
Start by lifting the rear up, both sides as high has it can go. Be sure to lock the front tires from moving and test to make sure the jacks will hold.
Slide in with your 14mm (thats what my bolts were, cant remember what oem ones were) and un dolt the y pipe from the mid pipe. Its two bolts. May need some wd-40 or nut buster. Since my bolts were newer and not torqued from the factory they were easy to get off. You may encounter nuts and studs here.
Next, get your 12mm deep socket out with about 6 inch extension.
Youll see that the midpipe is held on with a hanger and rubber piece in the middle on the driver's side. Unbolt that hanger, 1 bolt, and let the pipe drop down and rest onto the cross brace.
Then, with a 12mm standard socket, youll see that the passenger side of the muffler has a hanger that holds it. The bolt will be parallel with the ground. Undo it and put it aside.
Next, start on the drivers side of the muffler. Youll see the next hanger/rubber piece. Itll have three bolts, 12mm in size. Two of the bolts are obstructed by a plastic piece. To remove the plastic, take off the 10mm bolt holding it in place, as well as one of those bumper snap ins plugs. Now move the piece out of the way(no need to fully remove it) and unbolt the three bolts. As you go to drop the canister, put your toolbox under it for support. Be sure to have all your necessary tools out.
Youll now notice a ground wire holding the muffler to the chassies. It takes a 10mm socket. Unbolt it and drop it down. I didnt reuse it, didnt bother unbolting the midpipe from the muffler.
Now onto the passenger side. Youll have to REMOVE a piece of plastic/aluminum? this time. Itll have two 10mm bolts holding it in. Itll take some twisting/jimmying to get out. Once out, remove the three bolts from the hanger and the exhaust is now fully unbolted and ready to be taken off.
Remove the toolbox and take the exhasut out from the car.
for the Reinstall........
Transfer all the rubber and hangers pieces back to the new exhaust. Be sure theyre on the right way andfor the correct side. I put the new exhaust on piece by piece, much easier.
Start with the mid pipe. Slide it under the car careful now to drag it. Use the lift, move body, lift method, slow, but it minimizes scratch potential.
Using the first hanger, rebolt the midpipe in but dont torque it down all the way, make it tight, but not full torque. Youll have to prop the weight of the pipe up while your under there, not too bad, be sure to use the cross brace for this.
Once the hanger is in, line up the midpipe to the y pipe and thread the new bolts/gasket in with a 14mm wrench and a standard socket. Again, dont tighten all the way. Youll want the exhaust to be able to move so the other parts can be put on with ease and then torque them all down evenly.
Now that the mid pipe is hung, start on the driver side canister.
Start by bolting the three bolts of the hanger. Then, once the canister is hanging, line it up with the midpipe and thread the 2 bolts and gasket into it and the midpipe. Tighten it down, but not all the way! Itll take some manuevering to get the faces to line up. Once the faces are parallel, tigheten it down a bit more. Do make sure to check that your not stressing the rubber on the hanger too much, asjust as need to make it perpindicular to the ground. It may require sliding the hanger in or out a bit.
Then, do the same for the other canister. It has two hangers. My suggestion is to do the three bolt hanger, then the two bolts into the mid pipe, very loose, and then the one bolt hanger.
Once all bolts are in, you can start to torque them down. I suggest getting the exhaust to line up and torqued and then to torque the hangers down. If done right, you should have any leaks. Dont overtorque the hangers, it didnt take alot to break them loose, therefore you shouldnt overtorque as it may strip.
Then replace your plastics/aluminum pieces and double check that all bolts are torqued. As for the exhaust bolts, torque them pretty well, but dont strip them out. I like to use a wrench and wratchet and couter turn them. With the tight spaces under the car its hard to apply full torque.
That should be it, have fun. Should take you about an hour to an hour and a half to do the install and cleanup. The oem exhaust is heavy too! It helps to have a friend to pass you tools or pieces and support the exhaust, but theres only room for one under the car.
any q's, just pm me.
Youll need a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm socket. Also, i used a 12mm deep. Extensions up to 12 inches may be needed, theyll makes it 10x easier.
(i say may be needed, i used them but didnt know if they were required or not)
My method of removal was to unbolt the mid pipe and remove the hangers from the car. Thus, allowing the entire exhaust to come out in one piece. I dont know if there is any other way.
Start by lifting the rear up, both sides as high has it can go. Be sure to lock the front tires from moving and test to make sure the jacks will hold.
Slide in with your 14mm (thats what my bolts were, cant remember what oem ones were) and un dolt the y pipe from the mid pipe. Its two bolts. May need some wd-40 or nut buster. Since my bolts were newer and not torqued from the factory they were easy to get off. You may encounter nuts and studs here.
Next, get your 12mm deep socket out with about 6 inch extension.
Youll see that the midpipe is held on with a hanger and rubber piece in the middle on the driver's side. Unbolt that hanger, 1 bolt, and let the pipe drop down and rest onto the cross brace.
Then, with a 12mm standard socket, youll see that the passenger side of the muffler has a hanger that holds it. The bolt will be parallel with the ground. Undo it and put it aside.
Next, start on the drivers side of the muffler. Youll see the next hanger/rubber piece. Itll have three bolts, 12mm in size. Two of the bolts are obstructed by a plastic piece. To remove the plastic, take off the 10mm bolt holding it in place, as well as one of those bumper snap ins plugs. Now move the piece out of the way(no need to fully remove it) and unbolt the three bolts. As you go to drop the canister, put your toolbox under it for support. Be sure to have all your necessary tools out.
Youll now notice a ground wire holding the muffler to the chassies. It takes a 10mm socket. Unbolt it and drop it down. I didnt reuse it, didnt bother unbolting the midpipe from the muffler.
Now onto the passenger side. Youll have to REMOVE a piece of plastic/aluminum? this time. Itll have two 10mm bolts holding it in. Itll take some twisting/jimmying to get out. Once out, remove the three bolts from the hanger and the exhaust is now fully unbolted and ready to be taken off.
Remove the toolbox and take the exhasut out from the car.
for the Reinstall........
Transfer all the rubber and hangers pieces back to the new exhaust. Be sure theyre on the right way andfor the correct side. I put the new exhaust on piece by piece, much easier.
Start with the mid pipe. Slide it under the car careful now to drag it. Use the lift, move body, lift method, slow, but it minimizes scratch potential.
Using the first hanger, rebolt the midpipe in but dont torque it down all the way, make it tight, but not full torque. Youll have to prop the weight of the pipe up while your under there, not too bad, be sure to use the cross brace for this.
Once the hanger is in, line up the midpipe to the y pipe and thread the new bolts/gasket in with a 14mm wrench and a standard socket. Again, dont tighten all the way. Youll want the exhaust to be able to move so the other parts can be put on with ease and then torque them all down evenly.
Now that the mid pipe is hung, start on the driver side canister.
Start by bolting the three bolts of the hanger. Then, once the canister is hanging, line it up with the midpipe and thread the 2 bolts and gasket into it and the midpipe. Tighten it down, but not all the way! Itll take some manuevering to get the faces to line up. Once the faces are parallel, tigheten it down a bit more. Do make sure to check that your not stressing the rubber on the hanger too much, asjust as need to make it perpindicular to the ground. It may require sliding the hanger in or out a bit.
Then, do the same for the other canister. It has two hangers. My suggestion is to do the three bolt hanger, then the two bolts into the mid pipe, very loose, and then the one bolt hanger.
Once all bolts are in, you can start to torque them down. I suggest getting the exhaust to line up and torqued and then to torque the hangers down. If done right, you should have any leaks. Dont overtorque the hangers, it didnt take alot to break them loose, therefore you shouldnt overtorque as it may strip.
Then replace your plastics/aluminum pieces and double check that all bolts are torqued. As for the exhaust bolts, torque them pretty well, but dont strip them out. I like to use a wrench and wratchet and couter turn them. With the tight spaces under the car its hard to apply full torque.
That should be it, have fun. Should take you about an hour to an hour and a half to do the install and cleanup. The oem exhaust is heavy too! It helps to have a friend to pass you tools or pieces and support the exhaust, but theres only room for one under the car.
any q's, just pm me.
Last edited by Cux350z; 04-05-2006 at 07:30 AM.
04-05-2006 | 06:53 AM
#57
Originally Posted by CUxtopher
a how to, its easy.
youll need a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm socket. Also, i used a 12mm deep. Extensions up to 12 inches may be needed, makes it 10x easier.
My method was to unbolt the mid pipe and remove the hangers from the car.
Start by lifting the rear up, both sides as hig has you can go. Slide in with your 14mm(thats what mine had, cant remember what oem was) and un dolt the y pipe from the mid pipe. Its two bolts.
Next, get your 12mm deep socket out with about 6 inch extension. Youll see that the midpipe is held on with a hanger in the middle on the driver side. Unbolt that hanger and let the pipe drop down and rest onto the brace that goes acroos the middle of the chassis.
Then, with a 12mm standard socket, youll see that the passenger side of the muffler has a hanger that holds it. The bolt will be parallel with the ground. Undo it and put it aside.
Next, start on the drivers side of the canister. Youll see the next hanger. Itll have three bolts, 12mm in size. Two of the bolts are obstructed by a plastic piece. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the plastic piece in place, as well as one of those bumper snap ins. Now move the piece out of the way and unbolt the three bolts. As you go to drop the canister, put your toolbox under it for support.
Youll now notice a ground wire holding the muffler to the chassies. It takes a 10mm socket. Unbolt it and drop it down.
Now onto the passenger side. Youll have to remove a piece of plastic/aluminum? this time. Itll have two 10mm bolts holding it in. Itll take some twisting/jimmying to get out Once out, remove the three bolts from the hanger and the exhaust is now off. Remove the toolbox and take the exhasut out from the car.
for the Reinstall........
transfer all the rubber and hangers pieces back to the new exhaust.
Start with the mid pipe. Slide it under the car careful now to drag it. Using the first hanger, rebolt the midpipe in but dont torque it down all the way. Youll have to prop the weight up while your under there, not too bad. Once the hanger is in, line up the midpipe to the y pipe and thread the new bolts/gasket in with a 14mm wrench and a standard socket. Again, dont tighten all the way.
Now, the mid pipe is hung, start on the driver side muffler. Start by bolting the three bolts of the hanger, but dont torque it down. Then, once the canister is hanging, line it up with the midpipe and thread the 2 bolts and gasket into it. Tighten it down, but not all the way! itll take some manuevering to get the faces to line up, make sure your not stressing the rubber on the hanger too much, asjust as need to make it perpindicular to the ground.
Then, do the same for the other canister. It has two hangers. My suggestion is to do the three bolt hanger, then the two bolts into the mid pipe, very loose, and then the one bolt hanger.
Once all bolts are in, you can start to torque them down, i suggest getting the exhaust to line up and torqued and then to torque the hangers down. If done right, you should have any leaks.
Then replace your plastics/aluminum pices and double check that all bolts are torques. The hanger bolts dont require alot of torque, they were easy to undo, so dont over kill it and strip. As for the exhaust bolts, torque them pretty well, but dont strip them out.
That should be it, have fun. Should take you about an hr to an hr and a half to do the install and cleanup. The oem exhaust is heavy too!
any q's, just pm me, im sure theres some misspellings here but i didnt proofread, i wrote this in like 5 min.
youll need a 10mm, 12mm, 14mm socket. Also, i used a 12mm deep. Extensions up to 12 inches may be needed, makes it 10x easier.
My method was to unbolt the mid pipe and remove the hangers from the car.
Start by lifting the rear up, both sides as hig has you can go. Slide in with your 14mm(thats what mine had, cant remember what oem was) and un dolt the y pipe from the mid pipe. Its two bolts.
Next, get your 12mm deep socket out with about 6 inch extension. Youll see that the midpipe is held on with a hanger in the middle on the driver side. Unbolt that hanger and let the pipe drop down and rest onto the brace that goes acroos the middle of the chassis.
Then, with a 12mm standard socket, youll see that the passenger side of the muffler has a hanger that holds it. The bolt will be parallel with the ground. Undo it and put it aside.
Next, start on the drivers side of the canister. Youll see the next hanger. Itll have three bolts, 12mm in size. Two of the bolts are obstructed by a plastic piece. Remove the 10mm bolt holding the plastic piece in place, as well as one of those bumper snap ins. Now move the piece out of the way and unbolt the three bolts. As you go to drop the canister, put your toolbox under it for support.
Youll now notice a ground wire holding the muffler to the chassies. It takes a 10mm socket. Unbolt it and drop it down.
Now onto the passenger side. Youll have to remove a piece of plastic/aluminum? this time. Itll have two 10mm bolts holding it in. Itll take some twisting/jimmying to get out Once out, remove the three bolts from the hanger and the exhaust is now off. Remove the toolbox and take the exhasut out from the car.
for the Reinstall........
transfer all the rubber and hangers pieces back to the new exhaust.
Start with the mid pipe. Slide it under the car careful now to drag it. Using the first hanger, rebolt the midpipe in but dont torque it down all the way. Youll have to prop the weight up while your under there, not too bad. Once the hanger is in, line up the midpipe to the y pipe and thread the new bolts/gasket in with a 14mm wrench and a standard socket. Again, dont tighten all the way.
Now, the mid pipe is hung, start on the driver side muffler. Start by bolting the three bolts of the hanger, but dont torque it down. Then, once the canister is hanging, line it up with the midpipe and thread the 2 bolts and gasket into it. Tighten it down, but not all the way! itll take some manuevering to get the faces to line up, make sure your not stressing the rubber on the hanger too much, asjust as need to make it perpindicular to the ground.
Then, do the same for the other canister. It has two hangers. My suggestion is to do the three bolt hanger, then the two bolts into the mid pipe, very loose, and then the one bolt hanger.
Once all bolts are in, you can start to torque them down, i suggest getting the exhaust to line up and torqued and then to torque the hangers down. If done right, you should have any leaks.
Then replace your plastics/aluminum pices and double check that all bolts are torques. The hanger bolts dont require alot of torque, they were easy to undo, so dont over kill it and strip. As for the exhaust bolts, torque them pretty well, but dont strip them out.
That should be it, have fun. Should take you about an hr to an hr and a half to do the install and cleanup. The oem exhaust is heavy too!
any q's, just pm me, im sure theres some misspellings here but i didnt proofread, i wrote this in like 5 min.
that was fast, and really good. It is really easy..
04-05-2006 | 07:03 AM
#58
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,337
Likes: 0
From: ATL-What U Know About That???
CUxtopher,
Thanks for the write-up.
My system should be in tomorrow. Looking forward to hearing this thing especially since I had to replace my test pipes with the stock cats. I can't get use to having a quiet car again so this deal was right on time for me
. Nothing like replacing a set of $149 cracked pipes for a $160 exhaust system. UNREAL. From what I understand there are still some of these left. Hell, I might even pick up another one just to put aside 
Thanks for the write-up.
My system should be in tomorrow. Looking forward to hearing this thing especially since I had to replace my test pipes with the stock cats. I can't get use to having a quiet car again so this deal was right on time for me
. Nothing like replacing a set of $149 cracked pipes for a $160 exhaust system. UNREAL. From what I understand there are still some of these left. Hell, I might even pick up another one just to put aside
Last edited by atlsupdawg#2; 04-05-2006 at 07:34 AM.
04-05-2006 | 08:45 PM
#60
I really want this exhaust catback. I was wondering if it will fit my 06 g35 coupe just fine? Is the sound clips with a ypipe or with stock cats? I love the sound its hella loud :P...im always on the freeway so it doesnt matter how loud it is. I came from a LOUD *** stang before I got my G. Can someone tell me where I can order it? thanks