I've asked this question 3 times....still no answer.

 

I don't think it matters where to place the hole

 

ya it really doesn't matter. you can even notch the edge if you want. but the drill method makes it easy to keep track of the hole size with the drill bit.
i did mine about a 1/2" away from the top, centered. but i can see no impact to drill it somewhere else.

 

Hey guys sorry it took me so long to get back here, I work a lot of hours this time of year. I just drilled the whole in the center on the bottom side of the plate, So far so good, but before people go drilling away let me put some more miles on it. I dont want to be the cause of 500 tb's going bad. it is a 1/8th hole I sudgest slowly stepping it up. I may need more air here because i am at 5700 feet. Once again i have only put about 10 miles on it. But if oversealous is still having luck with it then =) i feel purty good.

 

overZealous1,

so this mod allows you to bump the idle up higher, and does it make any diff to what dealer can do? because I asked my dealer to bump the idle up for me to 900rpm already... my car still stalls out under hard braking with the A/C turned on sometimes (without A/C off, everything is fine).... i am actually thinking it might be the flywheel being too light with my lighter engine internal parts allowing the engine rev to fall down way too fast for the ecu to react?! what do you guys think?! thanx

cheers,

richie

 

overZealous1,

Sorry... another question.... when you get this mod done, does your rpm falls pass your set idle speed and come back up when you come to a dead stop while the clutch is pressed in at around 1500 to 2000rpm?

Or the rev falls down nicely and sit right at the set idle speed (or your usual idle speed) without dipping down and come back up?!

Thanks heaps!!!

richie

 

mine has never shown any tendency to stall out after doing this. even on rapid decel and hitting the brakes my idle never fluctuates more than a couple hundred from both extremes. not sure what the dealer is modifying when they try to bump it, like are they inputting a new target idle rpm, or actually moving the throttle plate stop. either way, this mod still leaves all the factory movement in the throttle plate to keep the idle smooth.
i highly doubt it is because of the lighter clutch and flywheel. i was running the 16lb tilton first and thats when my car was stalling, but worked fine with the tilton after drilling the hole.

 

overZealous1,

Thanks for the reply!!! So you went with 1/8" and the idle goes from 650rpm to 925rpm?! so if I want to idle my car around 800rpm, I will just need to ask nissan to set my idle speed down to 650rpm, then drill a hole that's around 1/16" to get around that 800rpm?! you reckon so?!

Thanks

richie

 

Ahh.... I'm really interested in this as I have the same issues (APS TT)... Pleas epost back after a few more miles. I'm gonna do this if it solves it.

 

Alright, I did the same today. I drilled a small 1/8" hole at the bottom of the TB plate. Previously, my idle was at around 600-650rpm and the car would stall all the time, very unstable. With this small hole, the idle increased by about 200-250rpm, which is perfect. No stalling anymore and very stable. I drove around for about 60 miles. The only problem is that the ECU threw a P0507 (Idle Speed Control System) code. It reset by itself before I had a chance to reset it with the Cipher tool. I'll keep an eye on it, but this trick seems to work fine if it does not throw another code.

BTW, my car is a 2004.5, so no way to increase the idle with Consult or Cipher.

Later,

 

ya you will want to do the throttle pos. and idle air learn when you put the throttle body back on.

 

I just got done doing it...1/8th inch hole . Idles better , starts better when warm , and seems smoother on and off the throttle . I will have to check with the OBD , but I dont think the idle raised . I had it set at 750rpm's and it used to jump around from 700 to 825 . Now it stay pretty stable

 

Scott,

When I carry out the idle air volume learn procedure, will my raised idle (900rpm) be resetted back to the standard idle specification (600-650rpm)?

And under what circumstances should we carry this idle air volume learn procedure? I disconnected my throttle for my engine rebuild, but never switch the key to "on" position or "accessory" position though and also never think that my tuner did carry this procedure out... so what do you suggest? should I do the IAVL first? and will it set back the idle speed to 600rpm?

thanks!

cheers,

richie

 

hey richie, it should not reset your idle back to the original stock position, i'm guessing, again i'm not sure what the dealership inputs to raise the idle. either they input a new target idle position, or there is a way to open the throttle plate a little more. either way, it should not have an effect.
the car will start to learn the new idle and do a bit of remapping in that range to adjust for the change. i have never tossed a code up once, but iirc, i did the idle learn and throttle pos. resets right away.

 

scott,

I think what they did was just to input a new target idle position, same as what Cipher does... I don't think they open the throttle plate a little more though.


EDIT:

Also I thought APS TT setup takes in metered air as well??? since they are still using the MAF sensor, right?!

cheers,

richie

 

I disconnected the battery first and I didnt have to do the learning thing .

 

this is a solid solution for blow through maf cars, if your car is draw through maf or n/a, you can just do the jwt idle fix. both accomplish the same thing, more air into the motor.

 

i find it strange that you guys are drilling a hole in a very expensive throttle body when you could just run a vacuum hose bypass from the intake pipe to the intake manifold... rather then drill a hole in the throttle, just go around it.

There is a vacuum port for the EVAP system right behind the throttle flange on the intake manifold. You can T in there and just run a hose to the intake pipe just before the throttle. Put a barbed fitting on the intake pipe and connect the hose there.

I guess the advantage to using the drilled hole method is that its all self contained within the throttle and there is no added clutter, so i can respect that.

 

I tried the hose with the turbo and it doesnt work. I think that mod only works on NA.

 

actually, if the hose doesnt work for you, then the throttle drilling would not. either modification would accomplish the same thing as long as the inside diameter is the same in either modification.

Using a hose could be a good test to see if you are going to get what you want before you commit and drill a hole. You just have to keep the system sealed and make sure you draw your new source of idle air from behind the MAF sensor.