Your tellin me you gained around 70 wheel without internals....you're my new hero

 

Obviously I meant the NA set-up I posted would beat the top 5 bolt-ons you posted. Regardless are you saying you have a 300+whp AUTO Z? If so what kind of dyno, and what correction if any was used. And last, any 1/4 times for this thing or what?

 

Still waiting on these answers. Also what cams do you run and what are the specs of your bottom end. I smell BS....

 

A couple hundred cheaper....

And like you said USED...

At least compare apples to apples...

Rick

 

You just have to do it right...no hero about it.

Rick

 

OK - so reading is important.

1 - I've got a G not a Z.
2 - No correction used - on a Dynapack

The other questions you are asking I don't answer..usually. I have spent my time and money building my car with custom parts. Many of which are proprietary, so I can't reveal anyways.

You'll likely chalk it up to BS...but I really don't care if you do. I have a sleeper that rocks and kicks massive a s s and love it...

For those that know me here and on the G35Driver board...I don't BS and know what I'm doing. and share knowledge. Why you have to be so negative an fight about it, I don't know.

Sorry I wont give away my secrets...but that's why they are called so.

That's all...

Rick

 

I smell jelousy...your not a member of the club...sorry, no answers for you.

Access Denied...

Rick

 

I knew it would be a dynapack as they read higher than dynojets, but you wont admit that. Even then, Id doubt 300+whp/tq on an auto G on a dynapack. You say you share knowledge, where is the sharing? When I ask you to post specs on 2 important pieces of your car (block specs and cam specs) you dont say a word. You dont want to tell me your 1/4 times for obvious reasons or you havent even ran the car. Why not post a dyno sheet? Many Z's/G's have tried to get over 300whp NA, here you are telling people you have done it, but posted no evidence or proof. Im not hating on you as I dont envy you or your car, just would like to know how you achieved such high hp, and importantly such high TQ-so excuse me if Im a bit skeptical, I guess you believe everybody's internet caims? BS'ers never tell their "secrets" because if they did, they would be caught

 

The biggest problem here is that I have to remove my Sponsor hat to respond to you accordingly - so consider it REMOVED - for this post - I am not a Sponsor.

Your an arrogant a s s that just can't get a point or read between the lines.

If you pay attention to others and not just yourself, you know, don't just post for the sake of seeing yourself in print and upping your post count to make yourself look important and seasoned, you'd realize a few things.

To summarize those:

1 - I'm not telling you the information
2 - most of the info is proprietary, so I can't anyways
3 - my secrets are mine for a reason

Now - if you used the 2 brain cells it takes to get item 2 - you'd possibly realize that 'propriety' means that maybe something is 'under development'.

As I have also posted - I do my research and spend lots of money doing so - on my own and don't own a shop, but my interest is bringing high quality products to this market that are not out there.

So close your trap already. Perhaps when I bring out a new product next year or earlier - and you want it - I wont sell it to you.

Try not being so invasive - it will get you further.

I'm done with you and this specific thread-jack.

Rick

P.S. Consider me a Sponsor again -

 

Basic Bolt-ons mean no more than loss of low end and a small gain up top. Never get a CAI with a plenum spacer. Always go Short Ram like a JWT Pop Charger or convert the Injen to Short Ram like I did. And the most essential like Alberto said is a ECU Tune like a UTEC or even a reflash. Bolt-on basically don't make much of a difference without a tune. After a tune, thats when all the mods start to come to life. You get a nice consistent power/torque curve and your A/F Ratio is nicely tamed, not going berzerk.
Please check the link on my sig if you'd like. Hope it helps somewhat

As for what Alberto is saying, I totally agree with 100%. Most people, if not all know that a dynapack is not a accurate method of measuring power. It may be a good tuning device but thats about it. If one thinks that dynapack numbers are accurate, everyone will be having close to 300whp on stock internals. I too would love too see a dyno sheet of a timeslip or some sort. Reaching 300whp w/ stock internals on our cars is probably not possible(especially an auto).

 

No argument there at all, but who said stock internals and 300whp???

The Dynapack gives you lower TQ numbers and lower results not higher. I have dyno'd the car and others on other Dyno's and found the Dynapack here low on TQ in comparison for reading, but as far as HP readings, withing a 1/2% of others. Maybe it's the Dynapack here and conditions, but the results have been very consistent with comparisons. I use 3-4 different Dyno shops to get averages for my cars, and I quote the average reading of them all, not just the highest or a specific Dyno. The last Dyno set happened to be on a Dynapack after a series.

Rick

 

I can't believe how off topic this thread got. Stop bit*hing everybody.

I suggest posting your 300whp dyno sheet if you have one. Who could it hurt? It wouldn't reveal your "secrets", just the outcome.

Back to the OP. How could you guys leave out the 3.917 final drive gear. Since the OP is looking for 0-80 and not 60-160 it is the perfect mod. If you guys weren't bit*hing at each other so much maybe you would have time to help him. This mod has been proportionately compared to a 10%hp increase in each gear. This would be the best mod for 0-80 IMO.

 

i don't understand why, could you please explain? im currently running with a nismo cai and a motordyne 5/16 iso thermal plenum spacer.

 

I love my gears and also think they are one of the best mods you can do. I tend to shy away from making them a top recommendation though because of the cost. If your AT your looking at $2K plus, and for MT about $1,300 - all after install, etc. You also loose your cruise control.

Unless your really hard core 1/4 mile...kind of hard for a daily driver to commit...at least that's what I find.

I love em though..I gear almost every performance car I have owned.

Rick

 

Exactly the response I expected. It was never my intention to argue with you, or to even call you a liar. I don tknow what the hell you do on the G boards but on these boards, if you go around saying "I have 300+ whp/tq" and dont back it up with at least a legit mods list (not the BS in your signature) and/or a dyno people will doubt you. Many people know me on here, I saw your claim, Im a skeptical person and I asked you about your set-up. At this time you got your panties in a wad and lashed out. I dont care if your a newb, a forum veteran or a sponsor, I see something I think could be BS, and I call it out. You couldnt back up your comment so myself and many who will read this who have been on the forums a while would consideer you full of $hit. I dont care for exact parts being used, I would have been happy with "I wont tell you the company but I have 11.5:1 comp pistons, XX rods" cams specs, headowrk done and so on. I do not wish to reveal your "secrets" but you can disclose info to semi prove you might have the numbers in question without getting specific. Obviously you BS'd in the wrong thread and have officially been

Edit-btw you have a 300whp beast and run a measly SAFC-II? No timing control? If so with what? This is a joke, because if you tell me you didnt mess with timing you would never hit near 300whp, and if you tell me you have a piggyback that adjusts timing, it would tune A/F as well and you wouldnt need the AFC

 

I completely agree. The muscle car guys have been doing this (gears) since the stone age. It's my next mod since I've done almost all of the bolt-ons.

As for cost, it's about the price of a good exhaust w/ a lot more performance in return.

 

dude i usually dont call bs,but this time i will.i have a dynapack dyno right in front of me and i only got 328rwt...............................and thats with a stillen stage 4.come on get real. i need to see proof,back it up with a dyno scan and post it.

 

I'm going to disagree on you with this one here in part. I don't think the gearing is truly ideal for the 1/4, at least not for the 5AT. Reason being is that with stock gearing and stock diameter tires, you fully extend 1st through 3rd in the 1/4. So for that transmission, I would opt for other ways to optimize the 1/4 run. For the 6MT, it should probably let you finish closer to redline in 4th, not 100% sure since I've never personally run a 6MT down the strip.

But I think the gears are pretty ideal for an all around performance vehicle that's street driven and not pushing ridiculous amounts of power. I'll be posting up my thoughts in another week or so once I get the car back with them in.

 

1) Gears
2) MREV & spacer
3) CAI
4) Exhaust....cats/cat back
5) UTEC w/tune

 

also it sounds to me that you are adding all the power potential of all the parts together.it does not work that way,thats is a ricer way of thinking how much power you have,and not in the real world.also those gears would hurt your time in a auto not improve it in the 1/4.they are great around town but thats it.