Pop charger VS stock air box
Originally Posted by 97supratt
The 06' airbox has a nice big velocity stack also. You should check them out, quite a bit of difference from the 03-05 airbox.
Yes this is true, which is why I keep meaning on swapping out my popcharger for an 06 box.
At first I liked the sound, but I think I'd like to go more quiet again. Plus the heat soak problem is annoying after all
Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
Yes this is true, which is why I keep meaning on swapping out my popcharger for an 06 box.
At first I liked the sound, but I think I'd like to go more quiet again. Plus the heat soak problem is annoying after all
At first I liked the sound, but I think I'd like to go more quiet again. Plus the heat soak problem is annoying after all
Originally Posted by 97supratt
I still want to try to create a nice system with the 06' airbox. Close to the gruppe-m design.
Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
That would be nice. I had thought about retrofitting the popcharger's venturi ring into the stock airbox, but it just doesn't seem worth it for how difficult it would be

What was I creating again?
Ah, and now the man has joined the thread. A lot of people speculating who did the comparo on airbox vs. pc and IIRC, it was Wired 24/7.
Your comp was with a pre-'06 box wasn't it? Again IIRC, this was only a MAF check, not a dyno, and you saw similar flow, with some higher sporadic peaks on PC. I think it would be almost identical with '06 box based on that data, and then real world stock box w/high-flow would be better IMO. As you mentioned Wired, the heat soak factor. I would love to see a dyno comp, but think you gave us enough data as is.
Your comp was with a pre-'06 box wasn't it? Again IIRC, this was only a MAF check, not a dyno, and you saw similar flow, with some higher sporadic peaks on PC. I think it would be almost identical with '06 box based on that data, and then real world stock box w/high-flow would be better IMO. As you mentioned Wired, the heat soak factor. I would love to see a dyno comp, but think you gave us enough data as is.
Last edited by mikead_99; Nov 28, 2006 at 04:34 PM.
I have similar setup as you.
One day I just decided to put the stock intake back on.
You can definitely feel the difference. Plus the car sounds way less agressive with stock intake.
One day I just decided to put the stock intake back on.
You can definitely feel the difference. Plus the car sounds way less agressive with stock intake.
i would like a tube to directly open outside, like if the stock intake was conected straight to the varis duct ( directly one part) i believe with the stock box at high speeds, it would be great. It would be the ram effect of course but i would by a tube that connected the stock hole gap and extended it directly through the varis intake hole. No escape just direct air.
see i think a person with a varis duct would be better there would be less bends for the air to travel.Evo R has a tib that simulates this but i would want something that goes straight from stock air bock no leaks to varis opening . I think that would be the best solution for a intake for the Z
I'm gonna try something similar with my V2 duct. The main concern for the ram air effect is air turbulence. As long as all the pipes are connected, ram air effect should work. I have a gap of about 3 inches from the v2 duct to the stock airbox inlet. I will try to create a plastic passageway for the air to travel through.
There is a sport bike website which tested the effects of speed and ram air effect on intake static pressure and power. At 100mph you get something like 0.2psi. I can't put my fingers on it right now.
Found it! http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_9910_ram/
At 120mph, one of the bikes saw 20mbar in the air box. 1 millibar = 0.0145037738 psi. And that was with a factory designed, perfectly sealed air box. 0.3 psi at 120mph, may give you 6hp. Better than nothing.
At 120mph, one of the bikes saw 20mbar in the air box. 1 millibar = 0.0145037738 psi. And that was with a factory designed, perfectly sealed air box. 0.3 psi at 120mph, may give you 6hp. Better than nothing.
I have a 06. I got in an accident and the damn airbox is broken.
SO...
Do I get back a stock airbox?
Or get a Popcharger?
I mean, I don't mind spending more for either.
If I can get the same hp as the stock airbox, or more with the Popcharger AND get a nicer sounding engine, then i'g with the popcharger. Does the popcharger come with piping?
If ya'll are telling me the 06 airbox is better than all the intakes because WITH a performance drop in intake it exceeds any other intake, then I will trade the nicer sound for better performance.
Or do i go with the K&N Typhoon, which looks to me to have the design of a cold air, but with the filter in the 'safe' position of a SRI.
SO...
Do I get back a stock airbox?
Or get a Popcharger?
I mean, I don't mind spending more for either.
If I can get the same hp as the stock airbox, or more with the Popcharger AND get a nicer sounding engine, then i'g with the popcharger. Does the popcharger come with piping?
If ya'll are telling me the 06 airbox is better than all the intakes because WITH a performance drop in intake it exceeds any other intake, then I will trade the nicer sound for better performance.
Or do i go with the K&N Typhoon, which looks to me to have the design of a cold air, but with the filter in the 'safe' position of a SRI.
Last edited by whitebwoy; Dec 5, 2006 at 06:46 PM.
I installed a JTM Pop charger and notice a slight increase in pickup at high rpm's but the best enhancement is the growl under the hood. It also looks cool. I use a shopvac every week or so to suck out any dirt/leaves that might be stuck in the filter to keep it clean.
As for the stalling, I have not experienced any. Car is running great.
350z 03 Touring Redline
As for the stalling, I have not experienced any. Car is running great.
350z 03 Touring Redline
Nobody said stock airbox with filter makes more power than a pop charger. All we said is stock airbox makes just a little bit less than a pop charger, plus plastic is a better heat resistor.
I'm going to take off my popcharger this weekend and re-install my stock airbox w/ K&N drop-in filter. I don't like the design of it, after a while it sucks in hot air. That I kinda don't like the noise the popcharger makes under the hood, a little too loud for me [puts on flame suit]. I knew i shoulda just got the Stillen intake to begin with!
FEDEX should be dropping off the PopCharger tomorrow morning.
I see lots of threads where some users stall and other do not when they do what im calling the "high rpm/speed to neutral test".
We all know RPM and road speed are not the same(engine speed vs road speed), you can achieve high RPM on first gear and still be at say roughly 50mph(just a guess, dont correct me).
I want to know where the prob happens... Is it at ANY rpm, so long as youre doing 80+mph then dropping to neutral that the car stalls..therefore the RPM's being the independant variable??
OR is it being at ANY SPEED(MPH), so long as your doing say 6000+RPM then dropping to neutral that the car stalls, therefore road speed being the independant variable??
Also, some users say they disconnected the battery terminal before installing the PopCharger, and i think these were the ones that do NOT stall. post along with your stall/dont stall reply, whether you disconnected the battery terminal when you/shop installed the PopCharger.
What does JWT say about all this??
I see lots of threads where some users stall and other do not when they do what im calling the "high rpm/speed to neutral test".
We all know RPM and road speed are not the same(engine speed vs road speed), you can achieve high RPM on first gear and still be at say roughly 50mph(just a guess, dont correct me).
I want to know where the prob happens... Is it at ANY rpm, so long as youre doing 80+mph then dropping to neutral that the car stalls..therefore the RPM's being the independant variable??
OR is it being at ANY SPEED(MPH), so long as your doing say 6000+RPM then dropping to neutral that the car stalls, therefore road speed being the independant variable??
Also, some users say they disconnected the battery terminal before installing the PopCharger, and i think these were the ones that do NOT stall. post along with your stall/dont stall reply, whether you disconnected the battery terminal when you/shop installed the PopCharger.
What does JWT say about all this??
Okay is there such a thing as too much air going into an engine? Well yes. When you are driving at 60mph @high rpm then coast it. Your MAF sensor has to compensate for the drop in rpm's. It unfortunately cannot do that very quickly because the vehicle is in motion and there are many other variables that are changing ie. speed sensors, brake sensors, etc.
Easy way to test this is by simply holding the rpm's at the same rate in neutral at a stand still. The rpm's will drop but will not cause a eratic idle. The idle has to stabalize itself using the MAF. If you have a lot of air going in, it will have a hard time stabalizing with other electronic sensors being used.
This is also true if you remove your stock airbox completely and run no filter. The vehicle will perform the same malfunction. There are two ways of curing this problem, 1) raise your idle, 2) get a different filter that is a little more restrictive.
Hope that helps.
Easy way to test this is by simply holding the rpm's at the same rate in neutral at a stand still. The rpm's will drop but will not cause a eratic idle. The idle has to stabalize itself using the MAF. If you have a lot of air going in, it will have a hard time stabalizing with other electronic sensors being used.
This is also true if you remove your stock airbox completely and run no filter. The vehicle will perform the same malfunction. There are two ways of curing this problem, 1) raise your idle, 2) get a different filter that is a little more restrictive.
Hope that helps.
Originally Posted by 97supratt
Okay is there such a thing as too much air going into an engine? Well yes. When you are driving at 60mph @high rpm then coast it. Your MAF sensor has to compensate for the drop in rpm's. It unfortunately cannot do that very quickly because the vehicle is in motion and there are many other variables that are changing ie. speed sensors, brake sensors, etc.
Easy way to test this is by simply holding the rpm's at the same rate in neutral at a stand still. The rpm's will drop but will not cause a eratic idle. The idle has to stabalize itself using the MAF. If you have a lot of air going in, it will have a hard time stabalizing with other electronic sensors being used.
This is also true if you remove your stock airbox completely and run no filter. The vehicle will perform the same malfunction. There are two ways of curing this problem, 1) raise your idle, 2) get a different filter that is a little more restrictive.
Hope that helps.
Easy way to test this is by simply holding the rpm's at the same rate in neutral at a stand still. The rpm's will drop but will not cause a eratic idle. The idle has to stabalize itself using the MAF. If you have a lot of air going in, it will have a hard time stabalizing with other electronic sensors being used.
This is also true if you remove your stock airbox completely and run no filter. The vehicle will perform the same malfunction. There are two ways of curing this problem, 1) raise your idle, 2) get a different filter that is a little more restrictive.
Hope that helps.



