Header Install ..thread locker?
Since most people recommend going back and re-tightning the headers after install... Why not just use the highest strength thread locker to prevent it from getting lose?
Is heat an issue with thread locker? I imagine this could be the only reason not to use it
Is heat an issue with thread locker? I imagine this could be the only reason not to use it
Originally Posted by derek173
Since most people recommend going back and re-tightning the headers after install... Why not just use the highest strength thread locker to prevent it from getting lose?
Is heat an issue with thread locker? I imagine this could be the only reason not to use it
Is heat an issue with thread locker? I imagine this could be the only reason not to use it

high temp thread locker is good till almost 500 deg (at that time it is liquid and you can take the bolts out) anyway, you can get header bolts that are ment to lock in place and not get loose, you must check your headers after heating them the first time, and again when they cool back down the first time. If you get alan-head bolts you will be alot happier,no more banging your open end wrench on the header pipes..If you really want to keep the bolts secure, they do have ones with hole in the head for Saftey Wire, thus ensuring they can't loosen.
Originally Posted by derek173
Since most people recommend going back and re-tightning the headers after install... Why not just use the highest strength thread locker to prevent it from getting lose?
Is heat an issue with thread locker? I imagine this could be the only reason not to use it
Is heat an issue with thread locker? I imagine this could be the only reason not to use it

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
And you this as your instructions...
http://www.350zforum.com/tech/NISMOR...neheaders.aspx
I installed headers in a carport in two days by myself with little or no expierience. It sucked, but I'm proud to say I did it
Last edited by Forever Z; Jan 12, 2007 at 09:05 PM.
EDIT... got it working... copy and paste FTW
Originally Posted by bwatford141
Derek, as far as going back to re torque everything. I have yet to find time to do that. It's been about 3000 miles and all seems well. My advice is to go to sears and buy these.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
And you this as your instructions...
http://www.350zforum.com/tech/NISMOR...neheaders.aspx
I installed headers in a carport in two days by myself with little or no expierience. It sucked, but I'm proud to say I did it
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
And you this as your instructions...
http://www.350zforum.com/tech/NISMOR...neheaders.aspx
I installed headers in a carport in two days by myself with little or no expierience. It sucked, but I'm proud to say I did it
Last edited by derek173; Jan 12, 2007 at 10:33 PM.
Good point. I have first hand experience with header bolts working loose. Then having to install the bolts again using Loctite. So essentially I installed the headers twice.
Do it right the first time.
Do it right the first time.
The problem is not so much loosening but stretching. As the headers,bolts,gasket, and engine expand and contract from the heat cycles everything moves about and takes a set. What I have done on many header installs is to run the engine to operating temp, let it cool off completely, tighten the header bolts, and repeat. Never had a blown gasket or leaking gasket. Never used Loctite either. Remember to use COPPER anti seize on steel or stainless steel bolts going into aluminum exhaust ports.




