Suggestion. Rounded off manifold nut.
I have successfully rounded off the lower rear nut on the passenger side of the exhaust manifold. I have installed headers before but I wouldn't call myself an experienced mechanic. I have tried pleanty of penetrating oil and I have used correct point and socket size. I know I have a couple of options but I was looking to see if anyone has encountered the same or similar problem and how they solved it. Thanks.
Buy a nut buster. It looks like a C-clamp with a pin through the side. You tighten the pin, and crack the nut. Sorry but I cannot find a photo.
The problem will be having enough room to get the nut buster around the nut.
The problem will be having enough room to get the nut buster around the nut.
Penatrating oil wont help much----If you were useind a 12 point socket, you may be in luck, Use a 6 point, and not a taiwanise 6 point but a Snap On. If it fits tite good, drive it on. Also try an American socket that may fit a little tighter
You only have one more chance, so make it count
You only have one more chance, so make it count
I have considered the nut buster but like you said I don't think it will clear. I used a six point then a twelve point. No luck. The bolts Nissan used are poor. I think I'm going to try to find that socket kit for damaged nut at sears. I did some reasearch and they will clear. Thanks. Keep suggestions coming I might need to try them all.
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I hesitate because this has to be done by someone that has done it many times----- I have, but it takes LOTS of precaustions, a steady hand and a talent. Torch the nut off and slide it over the stud, then address the stud with a vicegrip.
This is not for a beginner or even a somewhat seasoned wrench. You have to know your torchs, you hve to know where the danger areas are ( Pass side on the Z has the fuel line cluster ) You have to know where your slag is going to drop and blow out. Theres been times I'v worked prep for an hour just to blow the Head/Nut off in 5 seconds.
This is the last ditch effort, only if all else fails.
Seems to me, I work that one from the bottom usually----USE ANTI-SIEZE on reassy.
Im dead *** serious bout someone that knows what he is doing -----Everyone THINKS they do
This is not for a beginner or even a somewhat seasoned wrench. You have to know your torchs, you hve to know where the danger areas are ( Pass side on the Z has the fuel line cluster ) You have to know where your slag is going to drop and blow out. Theres been times I'v worked prep for an hour just to blow the Head/Nut off in 5 seconds.
This is the last ditch effort, only if all else fails.
Seems to me, I work that one from the bottom usually----USE ANTI-SIEZE on reassy.
Im dead *** serious bout someone that knows what he is doing -----Everyone THINKS they do
Last edited by Eazzy; May 12, 2007 at 06:54 PM.
Yes, torching it off will be the last thing I try. I had to have one torched off of a mustang a couple of years ago. Thats pretty much the point of no return, like you said it is tight down there and I'm not sure I know anyone around here I would trust to attempt it. I think before that though I will try the vice grip on the end of the stud and try to back it out, then just replace the stud. If that fails then i'll goto torching it off.
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