Wow... went to get a dyno to see how the Borla change was going to fair... unfortunately I didn't take a baseline prior to my Borla and intake modification... I have no idea what it would have been, however, it should have been much higher then what I posted today!

Dynorun.001 Max Power = 213
Max Torque = 212.4

Dynorun.002 Max Power = 219
Max Torque = 209.04

Horrible results if I say so myself... I was hoping for something around at least 230 or so +/- with the Borla. How fast does it take for the ECU to spot mods???

They couldn't take the 02 read out so I don't have the air/fuel mix to share. I got the Borla installed on Friday and the AEM many months ago... Maybe it's Technosquare ECU time???????

 

what kind of dyno was it? most people are getting 235-240 baselines. my car stock dyno'd at 235 w/ 239 peak.

 

Something is definately up here. It seems as if you lost power with your mods. Most guys here put down 220-230 stock rwhp. Perhaps you should find another dyno location and do a few more pulls, or get the car checked out because there may be something seriously wrong with it.

 

I'm thinkin' maybe it's the dyno machine but hell I'm not sure. I'm going to try and find another DynoJet... reset the ECU and run it again...

I'm going to buy a Technosquare ECU anyways

Those are horrible results granted...

Some time lines :

AEM installed 3 months prior (been running it for a WHILE)
Resignator Cut 3 months prior (been running it for a WHILE)
Borla Exhaust installed roughly 48 hrs prior
Grounding kit installed 3 months prior

These are the only modifications I've made... hmmmmmmm *scratch head* Maybe my exhaust is leaking or something? hell... ECU leaning? heck... anyone have some of these issues or am I alone?

 

Yea I'm surprised by the dyno results also. Most of the people at the CT meet on Saturday had pretty comparable power.

I think you should pull off your mods, do a baseline, and then contact nissan if your as much as 20 - 30 whp shy. Thats well over 10% of the claimed crank hp, not even adding back drivetrain loss!

My other recommendation is to trade your Z in and buy a CLK55 AMG. Each 3000 part engine is hand built and they dyno within 3 hp of each other. Takes the guess work out of the equation

 

Could be a dyno problem, but think of this way..

Who cares what you put down, as long as you FEEL the power, and can beat other cars around the same class (Mustang GT, ect), and run good times in the quarter/0-60.

Take it to the track, run it, see what you get.. unless mid 14+ (unless you are way above sea level), I say you're fine

 

All the money you spent on the mods just to lose power... The mods coming should help, especially the Technosquare ECU.

 

Mine was 4hp less after injen, custom y-pipe and flowmaster muffler. Going to dyno tomorrow to
a.) see what difference 5000 miles makes,
b.) get a new baseline comparing the wheels I used the first time and sold, and my iforged (borrowing my old wheels to do a back to back comparo)
c.) get a before & after ecu test. (not resetting ecu, so if the car really dials back any increases from mods, I should get a significant increase in power after the technosquare)

Am I right on c.?

 

I'm not Chebosto, but I think you will make significant power increases. That's a lot of trouble just to bring us the truth, Thanks!

 

I couldn't agree more w/Ricky.
My 5AT dynoes @ 227 hp and 225 torque, but here's the kicker: 14.109 (uncorrected) on stock rubber with 2.09 60 foot. I have since added gears, Nitto's and exhaust mods and now waiting for the hot Arizona temps to drop below 110+ to get some more runs in. I am confident my 5AT will break the 13's with no further mods. This on 227 hp with the automatic.
Don't worry, just run it and let us know how you are doing. Regards, Jim

 

Well, I'm tired of modifying my cars and getting little or no gains. Before I ever went to a dyno, at least I could say it felt stronger!

I just put a Granatelli MAF sensor and high flow throttle blade on my S-10 and lost .5 sec on the 0-60 according to my gtech. This ecu upgrade for the Z better work!

 

Dude, its gotta be those heavy I-Forged wheels. Please tell us you dyno'd with the I-forged, that would explain the losses and give you some needed peace of mind.

 

Try adding a set of headers to your list of mods. Your getting the air in, now get the exhaust out.

 

I'll be able to give us a performance penalty correction for the iforged tomorrow. The enkei's I dyno'd with are the same weight as the Rays, and I'm dynoing with both.

 

I would only be concerned with dyno numbers that were compared to a baseline run done on the same dyno. Each dyno will give a different reading. A while back one of the magazines ran a comparision of 5 or 6 differnet dynos with the same car on the same day. The numbers varied by quite a lot. When you run a car on the dyno it takes into account a lot of variables and some can be played with by the operator. Anyone that knows a thing or two about operating a dyno can make the correction factors work in there favor if the are disrputable. I also wouldn't try to guess what the crank horsepower gains are. There is no true way to know what the drivline losses are. Here is an article that may shed some more light on your dyno questions.
http://www.vishnutuning.com/dynos_dont_lie.htm
As for the ecu upgrade we hope to have a piggyback unit available for testing in 2 weeks, we will have some of our local friends running this for a few weeks and then if results are positive be releasing this for the general public. Stay tuned for dyno results soon.
Thanks,
Mike
MRC Motorsports

 

Gtech's have been provin to not be accurate. What engine in your S10 and what year is it?, my brother had a 2000 Chevy S10 4.3 with mods. Talk to chebosto (cheston) about the ECU, he knows quite a bit about ECU's, especially ours.

 

Its a 2002 with the 4.3 Only mods are a short ram intake, granatelli maf and throttle blade. I was thinkning that putting mod money toward the truck would get me more substantial gains than the Z for everyday driving. still need the hypertech and exhaust

Getting the ecu this week, after dyno. been talking to cheston a lot!

 

Yeah - I am runnin' the 19" Iforges... however, that's a pretty big difference. I'm thinking temperature and humidity are playing a factor possibly as well... I live in Seattle and it hardly ever humid, however, lately it has been pretty sticky up here. In any case... The borla install sucked a little but of the GET UP out of the Z. I was getting some very raw low in torque w/ the stock exhaust and the resignator cut. That has sortah gone away. Tonight I'm going to reset the ECU and then take it out in the morning to see if anything changes.

I want headers, however, I don't want shorties

Must have more TorQuE

Let's see what happens when I get my Technosquare ECU - I'm going out of town for a week and it'll be ready when I get back

 

We are working with a fabricator in CA and should have a set of full length headrrs that bolt up to the stock y-pipe or any other aftermarket exhaust. These should be ready in a month or so at which time we will be posting dyno results. As for the temp. and humidity, most dynos are temp and humidity corrected, but not necessarily. Were the numbers you got corrected?

 

Well I reset the ECU and the car's actually actin' a bit better now... more responsive in the lower end range.... still feel like something is missing however. I think the stock with the resignator cut is actually a pretty good mod