Looking to sponsor Y-Pipe!
Ok, VFR's appointment at the dyno is confirmed for Aug 7th. I just got off the phone with the shop that VFR chose. I have no affiliation with them and have never even heard of them before.
I will also be shipping the y-pipe to the shop directly, so VFR doesnt have to worry about delivery.
Let the experiment begin!
I will also be shipping the y-pipe to the shop directly, so VFR doesnt have to worry about delivery.
Let the experiment begin!
Originally posted by vfr350
Ok, I have a dyno appointment set for Aug 7, 2 baseline runs runs ($90) then they will change the y pipe. They then suggest to drive it for 25 miles, then do another pull, or they said they can change it and do the pull right away, what do ya think?
Ok, I have a dyno appointment set for Aug 7, 2 baseline runs runs ($90) then they will change the y pipe. They then suggest to drive it for 25 miles, then do another pull, or they said they can change it and do the pull right away, what do ya think?
Matt: Will there be any way to order one without cats? Also, you never completely answered my question: Does it still sounds like stock but a little louder?
Zrated: I wouldnt say it got rid of it, just changed it to an X-pipe.
Personally, I wouldn't go for the true dual set up because there aren't any good ones out imo (except maybe the HKS which you can only get in japan). Im predicting this Y-pipe alone will come close to the borla true dual and stillen numbers if not beat it.
Originally posted by VQ35DES
I say drive it for 25 miles...more the better.
Matt: Will there be any way to order one without cats? Also, you never completely answered my question: Does it still sounds like stock but a little louder?
Zrated: I wouldnt say it got rid of it, just changed it to an X-pipe.
Personally, I wouldn't go for the true dual set up because there aren't any good ones out imo (except maybe the HKS which you can only get in japan). Im predicting this Y-pipe alone will come close to the borla true dual and stillen numbers if not beat it.
I say drive it for 25 miles...more the better.
Matt: Will there be any way to order one without cats? Also, you never completely answered my question: Does it still sounds like stock but a little louder?
Zrated: I wouldnt say it got rid of it, just changed it to an X-pipe.
Personally, I wouldn't go for the true dual set up because there aren't any good ones out imo (except maybe the HKS which you can only get in japan). Im predicting this Y-pipe alone will come close to the borla true dual and stillen numbers if not beat it.
And to answer your question, i can't even remember what "stock" sounds like anymore. If i had to imagine it, i would say the pitch is higher like a motorcycle, and its coming from all four sides, compared to the stock. but remember i had the ghl catback, before the y-pipe
Originally posted by VQ35DES
Im predicting this Y-pipe alone will come close to the borla true dual and stillen numbers if not beat it.
Im predicting this Y-pipe alone will come close to the borla true dual and stillen numbers if not beat it.

I CAN guarantee it will not be less power as some reported from several catbacks.
Originally posted by 350ZMatt
It really depends on the car and how the manufacturer produced it. Here is a borrowed photo with pointers to where the y-pipe start and end, and where the catback starts and ends.
It really depends on the car and how the manufacturer produced it. Here is a borrowed photo with pointers to where the y-pipe start and end, and where the catback starts and ends.
Just wanted to make sure that's not what you're saying, cause a cat-back exhaust starts directly after the catalytic converter (y-pipe or not).
Originally posted by 99AllTurbo
Your pic is a bit misleading. It seems like you're saying the cat-back starts at the middle of the car (where you have the white line).
Just wanted to make sure that's not what you're saying, cause a cat-back exhaust starts directly after the catalytic converter (y-pipe or not).
Your pic is a bit misleading. It seems like you're saying the cat-back starts at the middle of the car (where you have the white line).
Just wanted to make sure that's not what you're saying, cause a cat-back exhaust starts directly after the catalytic converter (y-pipe or not).
hey matt, ever consider doing just a y-pipe? for the people who want to run the test pipes. it would even be easier to build! any one else looking for a y-pipe only? (without the high flow cats)
Originally posted by VQ35DES
Borla claimed 21rwhp, but people have hit the dyno at 6-12rwhp.
Matt: Is there any way you can post a sound clip of your 350?
Borla claimed 21rwhp, but people have hit the dyno at 6-12rwhp.
Matt: Is there any way you can post a sound clip of your 350?
Well i dont think this y-pipe alone will pump anywhere near 21rwhp. almost impossible if you ask me, with the stock headers.
I am not gonna even try shooting myself and claim something. I am just gonna wait for the dynos like everyone else.
I can def create a sound clip of the car, but i no longer have editing/compression capabilities. The file size will be close to 1.5mb, and I need a host.
Please let me know if anyone can host a video clip of my car passing by on the street as well as in cockpit. I would love to show off my beast.
VFR350Z's Y-pipe is done. I watched them hand make it yesterday and we test fitted on my car to make sure it was a perfect fit.
Another note, take a look at this attached photo. They are your instructions for successful install.
#1. The photo depicts my O2 senors. You will have to modify them on your car for this Y-Pipe. All you have to do is lengthen the wires by 6 inches to make sure they reach with the new y-pipe.
#2. This is where both sides of the pipe meet at what is called a "U" Flange. For shipment purposes, we did not tig weld this joint. It allows us to ship the y-pipe in three pieces in a smaller box, reducing the cost to you. It will come with clamps, but I would recommend welding them during install.
VFR350's y-pipe will ship out Monday. His appointment with dyno is Aug 7.
Another note, take a look at this attached photo. They are your instructions for successful install.
#1. The photo depicts my O2 senors. You will have to modify them on your car for this Y-Pipe. All you have to do is lengthen the wires by 6 inches to make sure they reach with the new y-pipe.
#2. This is where both sides of the pipe meet at what is called a "U" Flange. For shipment purposes, we did not tig weld this joint. It allows us to ship the y-pipe in three pieces in a smaller box, reducing the cost to you. It will come with clamps, but I would recommend welding them during install.
VFR350's y-pipe will ship out Monday. His appointment with dyno is Aug 7.
What Gauge wire did you use and did you soldier the connection ? Just want to make sure i have the correct materials if the FLP cannot do this type of service. I hate to have the car run funny if it can not read the o2 sensor Do I need any type of Exhaust gaskets at this point?
Thanks
Brian
Thanks
Brian
I will ask your question for verbatim tomorrow and post their reply here.
Originally posted by vfr350
What Gauge wire did you use and did you soldier the connection ? Just want to make sure i have the correct materials if the FLP cannot do this type of service. I hate to have the car run funny if it can not read the o2 sensor Do I need any type of Exhaust gaskets at this point?
Thanks
Brian
What Gauge wire did you use and did you soldier the connection ? Just want to make sure i have the correct materials if the FLP cannot do this type of service. I hate to have the car run funny if it can not read the o2 sensor Do I need any type of Exhaust gaskets at this point?
Thanks
Brian
Acosta used 16 gauge wires to extend the O2 sensors.
For the gaskets, Acosta said you can reuse the stock gaskets. But on my car they used silicone. He recommends you use silicon if possible.
For the gaskets, Acosta said you can reuse the stock gaskets. But on my car they used silicone. He recommends you use silicon if possible.
Sent an email to FLP to find out if they were going to be able to extend the wires, I quickly recieved an email back saying no a problem. I'm not to familiar with the shop, but they seem to be a great place to deal with!
I did get an email from Mitch at FLP, he suggested some type of plug in extension for the O2 sensor instead of splicing, but he could not locate one, Anyone have any idea? Now say this y pipe works great, Is it possible to get the Nismo exhaust without the y pipe? I was orginally planning on the Nismo system, Would still like the Nismo system without the y-pipe.
You can use the back end of the nismo exhaust system. The straight pipe and the muffler are good to go. But if it comes with its own y-pipe, then i dont know what you would do with that.
Spoke to FLP today at 6:45pm EST and they have the Y-Pipe and VFR350 is scheduled to go on the electric chair tomorrow to see how much this Y-Pipe can give out.
Whatever number it may be, please take note that mods are exponnential. Espicially with air flow type mods. As you get intakes, exhausts, y-pipes, headers, the total output grows exponentially. The results are even more profound with forced induction.
I can't wait.
VFR350, please post your own photos.
Whatever number it may be, please take note that mods are exponnential. Espicially with air flow type mods. As you get intakes, exhausts, y-pipes, headers, the total output grows exponentially. The results are even more profound with forced induction.
I can't wait.
VFR350, please post your own photos.
Last edited by 350ZMatt; Aug 6, 2003 at 02:57 PM.


