i did a dyno today just to see how much did i gain from my mod`s so far .
the thing is I DIDN`T GAIN ANY THING AFTER INSTALLING THE HFC ? i was shocked ,so i ask a mechanic he told me i need to tune my car b/c now she turn RICH ? and you need to get AFC to tune if your unit is stock (i don`t know what AFC is ? i`ll start thread in the tune section)
any how her my befor and after the HFC :
befor Berk HFC
<a href="http://s273.photobucket.com/albums/jj206/Darkness1975/?action=view&current=scan0001.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj206/Darkness1975/scan0001.jpg" border="0" alt="dayno sheet"></a>after installing the HFC
<a href="http://s273.photobucket.com/albums/jj206/Darkness1975/?action=view&current=daynoAPSB_HFC.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj206/Darkness1975/daynoAPSB_HFC.jpg" border="0" alt="dyno APS2.5 Berk_HFC"></a>
As you can see the Air/Fuel mixtuer in the second dyno going down ,, is that going to rich or lean ????

 

look at the run conditions

 

the higher the number, the leaner the condition. even though your motor is going richer in higher rpms, you graph is pretty lean overall. obviously lean enough to negate any gains from the hfcs. most dynos i have seen for an N/A VQ benefit the most in the 12.5-13.0 a/f range. i would stay away from an afc unless you have an early 350z that uses narrowband o2 sensors. i believe after 04.5, nissan used wideband o2 sensors which have the ability to change the tune that an afc offers. i would search and readup on Uprev's Osiris tuning product. even though it wont change the a/f, if you have the runfiles on disk, try changing the correction factor (cf) to sae or even std and see what the numbers show.

 

its a corrected graph, aka conditions dont really matter.

and that is rich. normally i would say its actually quite good if not lean for most of it, but looking at the base runs i can see that their O2 reads a bunch lean, probly 1-1.5 pts of AFR in which case that puts your graph as rich.

 

That's what it is suppose to do. More rich to redline. You do not want the motor starved for fuel at higher RPMs.

 

what mods do you have on ur z?

Edit:nevermind i just read your sig

 

There ya go then.

 

thanx alot guys for your replays .
but can you go easy on me ,
1) is hat good or bad ?
2) i live in kuwait and its very hot in here so rich better or lean ?
3)and what dose that mean : their O2 reads a bunch lean, probly 1-1.5 pts of AFR in which case that puts your graph as rich
4) i`m going to install Iso thearmal MD spacer ,,would that change any thing ?? (i mean richer or leaner)
5) for tune ,is apexi good ? a part number would be great

i know alot of Q`s ,i`m trying to learn from the best

 

Your numbers seem low.

 

thanx alot guys for your replays .
but can you go easy on me ,
1) is hat good or bad ?
Its not bad but it certaintly could be better.

2) i live in kuwait and its very hot in here so rich better or lean ?
Rich is better for high heat.

3)and what dose that mean : their O2 reads a bunch lean, probly 1-1.5 pts of AFR in which case that puts your graph as rich
I can't necessarily agree with the text in red. It may be true, but not necessarily. The cars don't necessarily come from the factory with a good A/F.

4) i`m going to install Iso thearmal MD spacer ,,would that change any thing ?? (i mean richer or leaner)
It will make it a little leaner.

5) for tune ,is apexi good ? a part number would be great
Unfortunatly, the apexi doesn't work well. A UTEC, or reflash would be better for your application. There are many different systems on the market that will work a lot better than the apexi.

i know alot of Q`s ,i`m trying to learn from the best

You're learning. That's whats important.

 

yeah you cant really use an apexi since the ECU will relearn its fuel trims, basically you will be tuned when you leave the shop, but not for long. i would suggest learning about widebands, the best way to know what is happening is to be able to see your AFR and since i dont trust the AFR on that dyno, it could certainly be beneficial

 

As a general rule for an NA DE - the ideal AFR target is 12.8 ~ 13.2 from 2500rpm to redline. About 2~3 points richer if you're FI.

Knock is a good indicator of whether or not you're too lean. But even if it isn't knocking, it could still be running excessive EGTs. So, to properly tune the car, you really need a laptop, decent ems, wideband, and egt gauge... Although a lot of folks tune without an egt gauge.

Your dyno looks pretty lean being in the 14's. Although the second dyno looks better than the first.

 

too rich from 120 up. I have always made the most power N/A at around 13.6-13.9 afr. A little rich up top just keeps things safe.

 

1) is hat good or bad ?
Its not bad but it certaintly could be better.

so i should look up to 240 with my mod`s ,,i think

4) i`m going to install Iso thearmal MD spacer ,,would that change any thing ?? (i mean richer or leaner)
It will make it a little leaner.

i should do dyno after the MD spacer to see if i need to tune or not, right
5) for tune ,is apexi good ? a part number would be great
Unfortunatly, the apexi doesn't work well. A UTEC, or reflash would be better for your application. There are many different systems on the market that will work a lot better than the apexi.

did my search , turbo xs have utec alot of good reviews on the product but very expensive (any other recommendation) ,but most of them are FI, is it worth it with NA ?

do i need to install any thing on my z if i want to go with Reflash ?