Get long tubes. I think PPE Engineering is making some for the 350z. They're in my likes on FB. Or buy my Megan's for cheap.

BTW, I want to start up a meet in a great location by me. I know at least 7 or 8 Zs in my area that would be down. Tuner shops included. Might be a little drive for you, but def would be nice to see your car. Good eats nearby, too.

 

I feel your pain. I have replaced more flexibles than I can remember. I just did the 5th set since I got my XYZ last year.

I am having a full exhaust fabbed Friday by a shop I found that specializes in custom exhausts.

 

I haven't had the Berk test pipes, but TurboXS and AAM test pipes are as robust as they come. They're slightly more expensive but the quality, thickness of the piping, material, etc are worth the money -- trust me. I didn't have the Invidia N1 exhaust, but I had the TopSpeed (same exact thing pretty much) and that isn't the best quality either. Torrey, I say just scrap the Berks and the Invidia and get an entirely new system. I know back in the day the Nismo y-pipes, specifically at the flex pipes, were known to break when combined with test pipes fwiw.

Adding hangers may help with a better weight distribution across the system, but that won't change the fact that the pipe angles are still slightly off and the engine will still flex. Also, the flex pipes are in the exhaust system to allow for some degree of flex and torsion, but if the angles of the flex pipe (mating to the cats or test pipes) are off, the additional hangers will only be a waste of time and money.

Try and see if a different y-pipe and/or test pipes yield the same results (cracking) and go from there.

 

Ah M2 Y pipe, that is the problem. Just get a stronger Y pipe, no need on swapping everything imo.

 

I have an XYZ and have had numerous quality flexible couplings r&rd. Metal is no match for a 3k car scraping on tarmac. The solution is to move the exhaust where it won't rub.

 

NO exhaust is the only exhaust that don't rub.

 

If this rubs where the flexes WERE I have much bigger issues.

Now the midbrace rubs when I think about driving over ants.




New exhaust went in. The AP Ti was just tooooo loud.













Came home and wired the cutout.

Cutout closed.


Cutout open.



Switch for cutout.



A few new pictures from yesterday morning.

 

Phreak, I have the same issues with my system. Stress is killing it. I'm now looking for a better match between different cats (probably HFC this time around) and a true dual exhaust. At least I have all winter to research it.

Good luck with your modding.

 

e30 -

Personally, I'm not a fan of the look of your new exhaust. I was never too fond of the single exit look and with your small oval outlet, it looks even more out of place to me.

Also, what brand cutout is that and what is that wide, flat oval looking thing?

Just curious, why get an exhaust cutout and put it at the end? The point of the cutout is to bypass having to go through the exhaust system.

 

There is nothing but pipe between the arts and the cutout.

I hated the noise of the Ti and was never a fan of the huge can. This way I get the quiet of the Magnaflow and when I want the power back it is robbing can open it up.

 

I left out the main reason for the change was being sick of the constant destruction of the flexible couplings.

 

Kinda off topic, but what's up with the grounding wire here?
It's supposed to be grounded on the EXHAUST..looks like it's on the cross member, which won't do a thing?

 

When I removed the spring buckets it was hanging down so I attached it to the only place it reached.

I have a full grounding kit under the hood so if I am losing some ground capacity from this I have gotten it back there.

 

Sorry, I missed the question about the cutout.

This is what it is.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DOU-DEC300A-1/

Brand Doug's Headers
Manufacturer's Part Number DEC300A-1
Part Type Exhaust Cutouts
Product Line Doug's Headers Electric Exhaust Cutout Kits
Summit Racing Part Number DOU-DEC300A-1

Tubing Diameter (in) 3.000 in.
Exhaust Cutout Style Electric
Exhaust Cutout Material Stainless steel
Exhaust Cutout Finish Natural
Exhaust Cutout Installation Bolt-on
Quantity Sold individually.


These rugged Doug's Headers electric exhaust cutout kits allow you to convert to a wide-open, unobstructed exhaust system with the flip of a dash-mounted switch. Doug's electric exhaust cutouts are built to last; they feature full stainless steel construction with a heavy-duty Dayton gear reduction rack and pinion electric drive mechanism. Best of all, these cutouts use a self-cleaning, knife-edge seat for a leakproof seal every time, whether open or closed. Doug's Headers electric exhaust cutouts include a pre-wired harness, a toggle switch, and fuses for an easy installation.

 

I think a better exhaust is all you need bro. I've had my test pipes (kinetix resonated, no oem hanger) and exhaust (borla td) for 6 years and over 60,000 miles now with ZERO problems.

 

Apples n Oranges...exhaust needs separate ground... has nothing to do with motor. Guess it isn't a biggie though.

 

The exhaust is welded in three places to mounts that are attached to the frame.

 

Borla TD is a totally different layout than Invidia N1. You don't even have a Y or Mid Pipe.

 

Are they on RUBBER mounts ?
That would ISOLATE the exhaust from the frame in those places.
The ground strap was put there for a reason (rust? Safety from static charge?). Here's where it was mounted stock:

 

They have rubber sandwiched between metal and are bolted to the frame. The exhaust attaches to the motor which is grounded in numerous locations.

I am experiencing no issues and as I live in Phoenix where there is virtually no moisture I am in no way concerned about rust.