Fair prices for some mod installations
Muffler delete and replacement with y-pipe and stock tips
how much should this cost for the removal, fabrication of y pipe, and install?
I don't understand whether it's going to cost me 60-100 bucks with y-pipe included or just for install.
In the second case, what's a fair price for a shop to fabricate me a y-pipe?
Plenum spacer
Fair install price? I'm a bit reluctant to not do it myself because of the very specific torquing instructions, but I just don't have the tools or the time.
Intake
I want to have the spacer, intake, and muffler delete mod installed simultaneously so I can then do a ECU reset just once and have the the ECU compensate for all things at once. So how much extra should I throw in for a quick intake install as well?
Thank you for speedy replies (looking to do this today or this weekend)
how much should this cost for the removal, fabrication of y pipe, and install?
I don't understand whether it's going to cost me 60-100 bucks with y-pipe included or just for install.
In the second case, what's a fair price for a shop to fabricate me a y-pipe?
Plenum spacer
Fair install price? I'm a bit reluctant to not do it myself because of the very specific torquing instructions, but I just don't have the tools or the time.
Intake
I want to have the spacer, intake, and muffler delete mod installed simultaneously so I can then do a ECU reset just once and have the the ECU compensate for all things at once. So how much extra should I throw in for a quick intake install as well?
Thank you for speedy replies (looking to do this today or this weekend)
Last edited by Tigre; Oct 26, 2012 at 08:32 AM.
intake and spacer you can do by yourself easily, with basic tools. and save $100 bucks or whatever stupid price a shop would charge you. might take a little over an hour if its your first time.
Yes, I'll call a shop. No, I don't want to be ripped off when I don't have a point of reference with which to compare the prices they give me.
Considering doing the plenum and intake myself.
Considering doing the plenum and intake myself.
What year car? Which intake? A simple intake and plenum spacer should take 1-2 hours max so just find out hourly rates. Guessing $120 or so total. If the only thing you are missing is a torque wrench, then it is about the easiest DIY mod there is. No idea on the exhaust work though......
I can understand your logic.Not everyone has the time,tools or experience to handle
what others may view as a "piece of cake".I'd think in a town the size of Orlando,there
would be a Z sprecialty shop.An intake install can be done by any shop(or yourself).
A spacer install is not a hard job.However,newbies can screw it up by not connecting things back the way they were.Or,over torquing bolts.A muffler shop can fabricate
a Y pipe.However,it would be better to purchase a Y pipe and have it modified to fit your car.Going rate for labor in this area is $55 per hour.I'd think the plenum&intake would be a flat rate of 2-21/2 hrs.The exhaust to install about a hour.
I'd suggest adding HFC's at the time of install.You'll need more than a ECU reset to get the max results.You'll want a full tune to make it all work.Cost between 600-700 bucks.
As I said,there has to be a Z shop in your area or,in Tampa.Figure out the parts& labor.
The parts if you include HFC's should cost on the low side about a grand.Tune,600...
labor 400.
You'll prolly have $2,000 spent to get all this done.
what others may view as a "piece of cake".I'd think in a town the size of Orlando,there
would be a Z sprecialty shop.An intake install can be done by any shop(or yourself).
A spacer install is not a hard job.However,newbies can screw it up by not connecting things back the way they were.Or,over torquing bolts.A muffler shop can fabricate
a Y pipe.However,it would be better to purchase a Y pipe and have it modified to fit your car.Going rate for labor in this area is $55 per hour.I'd think the plenum&intake would be a flat rate of 2-21/2 hrs.The exhaust to install about a hour.
I'd suggest adding HFC's at the time of install.You'll need more than a ECU reset to get the max results.You'll want a full tune to make it all work.Cost between 600-700 bucks.
As I said,there has to be a Z shop in your area or,in Tampa.Figure out the parts& labor.
The parts if you include HFC's should cost on the low side about a grand.Tune,600...
labor 400.
You'll prolly have $2,000 spent to get all this done.
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Thanks for the replies. I've just installed the stillen hi-flow intake myself.
I think I've decided to have my nearby Midas Auto do the plenum and exhaust job. I've been given a price of 220 for the exhaust work (deleting the muffler and having them weld on their own y-pipe along with the stock tips welded back on) and I've worked out a deal for 106 for the plenum install (originally they wanted 160).
So a couple key things on my mind right now.
Their exhaust guy told me he can use one of their pipes he gets for cheap that is steel, but not the same steel as stock or a stainless steel. He says it should last 6, 7, 8 years, basically the life of the car. My somewhat knowledgeable friend says I shouldn't be concerned and agrees with the exhaust guy's prediction. What do you think?
Secondly I'm about to perform the brake pedal ecu reset. My unanswered question is, how am I supposed to drive after the ecu reset to ensure proper relearning? I am planning to go home to Naples (202-244 mile drive depending on the route) after the exhaust & plenum job along with another ecu reset. Will this cause problems and/or incorrect relearning if most of the driving done after the ecu reset is highway cruising?
I think I've decided to have my nearby Midas Auto do the plenum and exhaust job. I've been given a price of 220 for the exhaust work (deleting the muffler and having them weld on their own y-pipe along with the stock tips welded back on) and I've worked out a deal for 106 for the plenum install (originally they wanted 160).
So a couple key things on my mind right now.
Their exhaust guy told me he can use one of their pipes he gets for cheap that is steel, but not the same steel as stock or a stainless steel. He says it should last 6, 7, 8 years, basically the life of the car. My somewhat knowledgeable friend says I shouldn't be concerned and agrees with the exhaust guy's prediction. What do you think?
Secondly I'm about to perform the brake pedal ecu reset. My unanswered question is, how am I supposed to drive after the ecu reset to ensure proper relearning? I am planning to go home to Naples (202-244 mile drive depending on the route) after the exhaust & plenum job along with another ecu reset. Will this cause problems and/or incorrect relearning if most of the driving done after the ecu reset is highway cruising?
You may want to just save up for a nice exhaust, I'm sure some time down the road you will regret spending the money on muffler delete etc. get it done right the first time will save you money
I read about you wanting to install a plenum spacer? We can be helpful A-holes sometimes...
Check out our DIY guides in the tech section of our forum for helpful guides. You can learn a lot here homie, just gotta search a little
Check out our DIY guides in the tech section of our forum for helpful guides. You can learn a lot here homie, just gotta search a little
Yeah you guys are right I'm going to stop being a lazy *** and just do the plenum myself.
So tomorrow morning I'm getting my muffler delete job done by a specialty muffler shop. I'm having the stock piping cut shortly after the resonator, before all the bends that lead to the muffler bolt on. From there I'm having aluminized steel piping fabricated with minimal bends and therefore maximum flow.
I realize by doing it this way it will become permanent and I won't be able to bolt the muffler back on but I say **** it it's never going back on. I am confident it will turn out sounding great, apart from the fact I know it will do nothing but good for my exhaust flow.
I read this article that really gave me more knowledge about how the exhaust functions, valve overlap, and the false nature of backpressure claims.
I linked it in this new thread I started: https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...-is-truth.html
So tomorrow morning I'm getting my muffler delete job done by a specialty muffler shop. I'm having the stock piping cut shortly after the resonator, before all the bends that lead to the muffler bolt on. From there I'm having aluminized steel piping fabricated with minimal bends and therefore maximum flow.
I realize by doing it this way it will become permanent and I won't be able to bolt the muffler back on but I say **** it it's never going back on. I am confident it will turn out sounding great, apart from the fact I know it will do nothing but good for my exhaust flow.
I read this article that really gave me more knowledge about how the exhaust functions, valve overlap, and the false nature of backpressure claims.
I linked it in this new thread I started: https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...-is-truth.html








