possible HR brillo-less test pipe O2 fix?
fisrtly, id like to say that i have a DE, so i have no way of confirming if this works, but i thought id give you guys the idea, as i havent seen it before.
alright, so, before i purchased my TP's, i did a bunch of research on the topic so i could get away with no engine light. now, i dont have an HR but when i put the spark plug antifoulers in to correct my light, i had an idea.
ive seen multiple places stating that you need to get 2 sets of antifoulers and to drill one set out witha 1/2" bit, then pack the other sit will brillo untill you can barely blow through it and when the light comes back, replace the brillo.
well, my idea is a lot easier than that. when i drilled out my antifoulers to make it work on my DE, i noticed that the smallest bit i could use was a 13/32" or 7/16", i cant remember which one exactly. when i did that, the shield on the sensor was touching the inside of the bore. so what i did was go up to a 29/64" bit. this gave me a very very low clearance, all the way around the sensor.
now, heres the trick! when i drilled the antifouler out, i didnt go all of the way through! i only drilled until the newly drilled bottom met with the original bottom, on the inside. so basically what i did was only bore out the barrel, not drill all of the way through!
*note* if your test pipes do not have built in antifoulers, i would recommend 2 sets of antifoulers, leaving an unmodified set between the pipes and the modified set.
ps. not sure exactly where this should go, so if some one could help me out?
alright, so, before i purchased my TP's, i did a bunch of research on the topic so i could get away with no engine light. now, i dont have an HR but when i put the spark plug antifoulers in to correct my light, i had an idea.
ive seen multiple places stating that you need to get 2 sets of antifoulers and to drill one set out witha 1/2" bit, then pack the other sit will brillo untill you can barely blow through it and when the light comes back, replace the brillo.
well, my idea is a lot easier than that. when i drilled out my antifoulers to make it work on my DE, i noticed that the smallest bit i could use was a 13/32" or 7/16", i cant remember which one exactly. when i did that, the shield on the sensor was touching the inside of the bore. so what i did was go up to a 29/64" bit. this gave me a very very low clearance, all the way around the sensor.
now, heres the trick! when i drilled the antifouler out, i didnt go all of the way through! i only drilled until the newly drilled bottom met with the original bottom, on the inside. so basically what i did was only bore out the barrel, not drill all of the way through!
*note* if your test pipes do not have built in antifoulers, i would recommend 2 sets of antifoulers, leaving an unmodified set between the pipes and the modified set.
ps. not sure exactly where this should go, so if some one could help me out?
How about get an uprev tune and disable the DTC's? If you have test pipes you should be getting tuned anyways...Messing with the sensors (even if it mutes the CEL) is going to affect your AFR's and you'll see a reduced MPG.
The computer only uses post cat O2 to let the computer know the cars are working properly. They so not effect the tune
yes, you could get a tune to eliminate the codes, but looking at the e-test paper, that my old car went for, if its a plug-in-scan type test, you will probably fail, since its an obd2 readiness scan. here in ontario, we used to have sniffer tests, untill jan/2013 (though, they have introduced it in some places, already) and i know that we arent the only place that has this type of smog testing
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etkms
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Jun 19, 2022 06:30 PM









