RSR Exhaust rattle???
RSR Exhaust rattle???
Does anyone with the rsr exhaust ever hear the exhaust rattle when going over bumps and stuff? Its the part that connets to the y pipe, it hits the crossmember and rattles. I tried sticking a rubber piece between them to stop it but the rubber piece came loose and its doing it again. Thanks for any help fellas.
--Josh
--Josh
my nismo has no rattles. one member suggested that you loosen all the connections on the exhaust, put a pice of wood(small 2x4) in between X-Brace and the Exhaust piping where its rattling and than tighten all the bolts, and you should be rattle free.
Originally posted by mofoz
my nismo has no rattles. one member suggested that you loosen all the connections on the exhaust, put a pice of wood(small 2x4) in between X-Brace and the Exhaust piping where its rattling and than tighten all the bolts, and you should be rattle free.
my nismo has no rattles. one member suggested that you loosen all the connections on the exhaust, put a pice of wood(small 2x4) in between X-Brace and the Exhaust piping where its rattling and than tighten all the bolts, and you should be rattle free.
Just remember to take the wood out or you will be in for a nice surprise!!!!!!! In an earlier post, I had a custom bracket manufactured utilizing the original midpipe mount. Work great for my NISMO exhaust and RT cats combo. No rattling since, although it's only been a couple of days now.. Good luck!!
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Josh,
They used the stock hanger bracket that bolts to the underside of the car. When it is mounted, the poker that goes through the rubber mount actually sits about 1 1/2 inches down. What the shop did was cut the bracket at the 90 degree bend and moved the poker thing so that it sits parallel to the the mounting bolt. If you look under the car, you will see what I am talking about. The best part is that it did not involve any welding to the car, just the cheap bracket. I still have not had any problems with the bracket. I think that this is by far the best method because of its strength and simplicity. Don't lower that brace...you'll scrape. Just modify the hanger and it solves the problem easy. Took the shop about 30 min to do everything to make the hanger work.
They used the stock hanger bracket that bolts to the underside of the car. When it is mounted, the poker that goes through the rubber mount actually sits about 1 1/2 inches down. What the shop did was cut the bracket at the 90 degree bend and moved the poker thing so that it sits parallel to the the mounting bolt. If you look under the car, you will see what I am talking about. The best part is that it did not involve any welding to the car, just the cheap bracket. I still have not had any problems with the bracket. I think that this is by far the best method because of its strength and simplicity. Don't lower that brace...you'll scrape. Just modify the hanger and it solves the problem easy. Took the shop about 30 min to do everything to make the hanger work.
Originally posted by scubasteve
Josh,
They used the stock hanger bracket that bolts to the underside of the car. When it is mounted, the poker that goes through the rubber mount actually sits about 1 1/2 inches down. What the shop did was cut the bracket at the 90 degree bend and moved the poker thing so that it sits parallel to the the mounting bolt. If you look under the car, you will see what I am talking about. The best part is that it did not involve any welding to the car, just the cheap bracket. I still have not had any problems with the bracket. I think that this is by far the best method because of its strength and simplicity. Don't lower that brace...you'll scrape. Just modify the hanger and it solves the problem easy. Took the shop about 30 min to do everything to make the hanger work.
Josh,
They used the stock hanger bracket that bolts to the underside of the car. When it is mounted, the poker that goes through the rubber mount actually sits about 1 1/2 inches down. What the shop did was cut the bracket at the 90 degree bend and moved the poker thing so that it sits parallel to the the mounting bolt. If you look under the car, you will see what I am talking about. The best part is that it did not involve any welding to the car, just the cheap bracket. I still have not had any problems with the bracket. I think that this is by far the best method because of its strength and simplicity. Don't lower that brace...you'll scrape. Just modify the hanger and it solves the problem easy. Took the shop about 30 min to do everything to make the hanger work.
--Josh
Josh,
I did not get any bracket. They removed the factory bracket and modified it by fabricating a new piece from the original piece. It is a very strong weld, better than bending the bracket.
I did not get any bracket. They removed the factory bracket and modified it by fabricating a new piece from the original piece. It is a very strong weld, better than bending the bracket.
Originally posted by scubasteve
Josh,
I did not get any bracket. They removed the factory bracket and modified it by fabricating a new piece from the original piece. It is a very strong weld, better than bending the bracket.
Josh,
I did not get any bracket. They removed the factory bracket and modified it by fabricating a new piece from the original piece. It is a very strong weld, better than bending the bracket.
--Josh
Good luck with the install. I think that someone could easily manufacture these brackets. It does not appear that all systems have problems clearing the cross brace that we have run into. When I had only my NISMO cat back system, I had absolutely no problem with any rattling or clearance. I think the angle on my RT cats was just a hair off and the problem just went back. Before I had the problem corrected, I burned through two sets of gaskets between the cats and the NISMO y-pipe.
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